Using drawbar to support ballast on 2310?

[Doughknob]

So, OP, how do you get the weight on/off the drawbar?

 

[clemsonfor]

It seems like a little clarification is in order. The drawbar I'm talking about is the one bolted to the bottom of the rear end casting. The drawbar itself is a round bar about 1.5 inches (76mm) in diameter. I'm not sure of the total weight of the steel I have, but it is between 300 and 600 pounds. The weight would all be supported by the drawbar, which in turn is supported by 4 bolts that hold two U shaped stamped parts made of steel about 3/8 inch thick. That would be 10mm for most folks. Looking at the ROPS again it would be the seat belt mounting bolts that would do double duty stabilizing the weight. This stabilization would be just that, keeping the weight stable so it wouldn't tend to rock side to side. Adding weight to the drawbar has several advantages for me. It keeps the added weight low and close to the rear axle centerline. I will construct the weight so that there is clearance for the PTO shaft, this means the Bush Hog and post hole digger can be used with the weight in place. Since I won't be using the 3 point hitch for the weight I can still use my box or back blades without removing the weight, and I can add the box blade for more and/or farther out weight if need be. I like it when the tractor is shorter, it makes it easier to maneuver. I don't like having to always worry about whatever is sticking out behind my tractor catching something. With my backhoe I'm always worrying about hitting something with the hoe. Because I have hit stuff with the hoe. More than once.
Eric

Fill the tires you can get 200# that way easy with windshield washer fluid or antifreeze.

If you have a block of metal sitting there how can you use the bush hog, you won't be able to hook the pto shaft up?

 

[etpm]

Fill the tires you can get 200# that way easy with windshield washer fluid or antifreeze.

If you have a block of metal sitting there how can you use the bush hog, you won't be able to hook the oto shaft up?

I actually have a bunch of pieces of flat stock. Bar ends, pieces of plate, that kind of thing. Just scrap destined for recycling. I was thinking of welding them into a block with clearance for the PTO shaft.
Eric

 

[clemsonfor]

So, OP, how do you get the weight on/off the drawbar?

Engine lift/cherry picker.

 

[clemsonfor]

We (I?) understand that you want the weight bolted to the ROPS and bearing down on the drawbar.

Here's a similar arrangement using weights salvaged off of exercise equipment and resting on the drawbar, that I used for a while to improve traction pulling my 2600 lb watering trailer uphill.

But we're trying to steer you to weight you can simply drop and abandon, similar to an implement, rather than semi-permanently mounted.

Maverick your first photo with the chrome trailer ball, has a loop to solve the problem of the ball rolling over upside down just as you back up to a trailer. Here's my similar solution. Cat1/2 sleeves with a flat bar welded to them, then the sleeve/bar assemblies bolted to ends of the crossbar. I've used this for several years. I thought the flat pieces might bend, but they haven't. This works well.

In the last photo he will likely need to park the bucket of cement on something. Because the 3-point arms may not go low enough to connect, if he leaves the cement bucket on the ground. I see he has a jackstand under there to hold it up when he parks. A better design is a steel bar punched side to side through the bucket a foot off the ground, at a height where the 3-point arms can match up, before pouring the concrete. Stepping up in elegance, add a trailer hitch and some holes in the concrete to carry a shovel etc upright, before the pour.

Don't the arms on the old age tractors the age of the Ford Ns and old MF and JD tractors through the 60s don't those lift arms go almost to the ground?

 

[bmaverick]

Don't the arms on the old age tractors the age of the Ford Ns and old MF and JD tractors through the 60s don't those lift arms go almost to the ground?

Ad so do most of the YM Series when the lift arms are in the furthest pin hole setting and the lowest draw arm holes to the attachment side. MY machine can get to 2-inches [50mm] near the ground that way.

 

[California]

Don't the arms on the old age tractors the age of the Ford Ns and old MF and JD tractors through the 60s don't those lift arms go almost to the ground?

Yes but ... there has to be some reason he parked that bucket on a jackstand.

 

[bmaverick]

Yes but ... there has to be some reason he parked that bucket on a jackstand.

It was to ensure the liquid concrete was hardening and not to dump out.

 

[Doughknob]

Engine lift/cherry picker.

He is ignoring me. He hates me.....

 

[etpm]

So, OP, how do you get the weight on/off the drawbar?

I was thinking I could use the 3 point hitch arms to lift the steel block. Maybe I need to re-think things but my idea was to run a bar through some sort of eye or eyes on the block and use the arms to lift the block. Then the arm would be slid out after the weight, the welded block, was fastened in place. I better take a good look at things, make a cardboard mock up, to make sure things will work the way I want.
I have been doing the same type of thing for my power steering add on. Old garden hose and a cardboard box to simulate hydraulic hoses and the diverter valve. I think doing these mock ups is going to save me a lot of time. While I'm installing the power steering I am going to re-route at least two hydraulic hoses that were added when the loader was put on. And maybe more. It's interesting looking at another person's work and trying to figure out just why they did it a certain way.
Eric