Chains instead of a top link for bush hog?

[MikeA57]

I was browsing around last week on TBN and I read a couple of threads about people who are using a chain in place of the top link for their bush hog. Something about it being better if you are cutting a rough area because the chain lets the bush hog move around more than the stiff top link does. Or, at least that's what I remembered about the conversation. Anyway, in all the discussion about using a chain no one had provided a picture to illustrate this setup. Does anyone have one that they can post to let me see how this works?

I cut a field that my son and his friends use to ride their ATVs in and if they do it after a rain the ruts they leave are treacherous when I'm cutting. The hog is constantly slipping into ruts, out of ruts, and across ruts. I can see how the top link would put a lot of stress on the connection point on the bush hog.

But then on the other hand, I thought that the purpose of the top link was to hold the implement steady?

Thanks,

Mike

 

[the6shooter]

I'v been running brush hogs for yrs. never use the top link, I prefer running it to follow the ground. its just the same as using a pull behind cutter.
I noticed with the 1st. cutter I owned the tail wheel support always cracked and finnally broke, it was from the pounding the tail wheel was receiving. on hills and rutts. when I get to where I have to mow, 1st. thing the top link is disconnected.
happy hunting
david

 

[Soundguy]

when using the chain, you are making a loop at the end to go thru.

I'm not a fan of a chain, though have ran a chain thru a pipe that was a lil shorter thant he chain.. gives a lil more movement.. still.. the best is just to have a toplink connection on the mower that involves a flex link or slip channel to allow some movement / play, yet in a compressional situation like a backflip starting, it provides some rigidity.

just my .02$

soundguy

 

[Wyobuckaroo]

As long as you can keep the chain out of the PTO shaft..........
I suspect it would work.

I have thought of inventing a telescoping top link that is the correct length to lift the implement, but collapses if the rear of the implement is pushed up.....

Post pictures of an interesting alternative..........
Good luck
Wyo

 

[greg_g]

In my book, using a chain is little more than an accident waiting to happen. Most folks who consider it a solution either don't have - or aren't familiar with the operation of - a flexible toplink bracket.

Do you connect your tractors toplink directly to the pair of holes on the top of the bush hog A-frame? or to a moveable bracket that is pinned (or bolted) to those holes?

If you're not sure what I'm talking about, look at the U-shaped bracket that's attached to the top of the A-frame on this rotary cutter. If you don't have one of those, you need to get one. If you do, let me know and we'll go through how it works.

//greg//

 

[Soundguy]

As long as you can keep the chain out of the PTO shaft..........
I suspect it would work.

I have thought of inventing a telescoping top link that is the correct length to lift the implement, but collapses if the rear of the implement is pushed up.....

Post pictures of an interesting alternative..........
Good luck
Wyo

i've seen a pipe inside a pipe / box tube inside a box tube, with the outter sleeve with a slot on either side, and the inner with a pin thru it.. allowing ti to contract and extend to a certain extent.

still.. a flex link on the mower and a rigid toplink really is the best way to go for most applications.

if you don't like that.. get a semi-mount mower instead..

soundguy

 

[crankshaft21]

Hey Mike, where do you live in N. Mississippi? I live just outside of Ripley.

 

[jdtractor]

hi i use a chain for a top link 5/16- 3/8 size. it works fine and you can drop the mower over and down in dips , ruts what ever you care to. i always have and always will, the solid top link is a pain in the ***** no flex and semi i mounted mowers are a pain in the ***** if youre mowing un even ground. where i mow its steep and rough , alot of you guys dont know what steep or rough ground is and i get a kick out of all the reading and bragging you all do ,it makes for good reading but i question some of the replies! ive been mowing filth heavy 3" 4" and steep ground all my life and i charge big $$$$$$ for it , when i say steep i mean steep to the point a 4wd will not climdb it forwards , with the bush hog picked up to put weight on the rear tires and i mite add i have a FEL on also, its to steep i mow only 1way climb again after i travel and mow 1 way again until im done. a chain top links works well for me and my operation , i have 2 4wd tractors with heavy duty mowers and i wouldnt use a solid top link if i had to. for all you guys that think this is B.S. i live in southwestern pa. we have hills that look like walls and i MOW them.

 

[Gordon Gould]

This is the setup I used on my grader/scraper when I wanted a soft top link and before I got a hydraulic top link.
It is just a short chain with a logging choker and and slider grab link. Very adjustable.

 

[Fixemall]

I used an old shock absorber from a truck on my old brush hog before it met it's demise, the new one has a flip link for movement, much like the one pictured above.

 

[EddieWalker]

I was browsing around last week on TBN and I read a couple of threads about people who are using a chain in place of the top link for their bush hog. Something about it being better if you are cutting a rough area because the chain lets the bush hog move around more than the stiff top link does. Or, at least that's what I remembered about the conversation. Anyway, in all the discussion about using a chain no one had provided a picture to illustrate this setup. Does anyone have one that they can post to let me see how this works?

I cut a field that my son and his friends use to ride their ATVs in and if they do it after a rain the ruts they leave are treacherous when I'm cutting. The hog is constantly slipping into ruts, out of ruts, and across ruts. I can see how the top link would put a lot of stress on the connection point on the bush hog.

But then on the other hand, I thought that the purpose of the top link was to hold the implement steady?

Thanks,

Mike

The top link is only for when you want to lift the mower up off of the ground. It should be loose when cutting. You set the height of the cut by adjusting your tail wheel, and the height of your lift arms.

Replacing the top link with a chain accomplishes nothing. And since you need the chain to be short enough to still be able to lift the mower, it might limit how much movement you get out of your mower if you are mowing uneven terrain.

How high and at what angle to cut is a topic without a correct answer and subject to personal opinion. Using chains over a top link really isn't something to debate over.

Eddie

 

[jinman]

Here is what I used to use on my old NAA tractor. I had chain for a toplink and also mower height control chains to give me consistent mowing height and take the pressure off the hydraulics. If you have hydraulics that sag, this can make your mower very stable and be able to lift it when needed.

 

[electrarc]

I was browsing around last week on TBN and I read a couple of threads about people who are using a chain in place of the top link for their bush hog. Something about it being better if you are cutting a rough area because the chain lets the bush hog move around more than the stiff top link does. Or, at least that's what I remembered about the conversation. Anyway, in all the discussion about using a chain no one had provided a picture to illustrate this setup. Does anyone have one that they can post to let me see how this works?

I cut a field that my son and his friends use to ride their ATVs in and if they do it after a rain the ruts they leave are treacherous when I'm cutting. The hog is constantly slipping into ruts, out of ruts, and across ruts. I can see how the top link would put a lot of stress on the connection point on the bush hog.

But then on the other hand, I thought that the purpose of the top link was to hold the implement steady?

Thanks,

Mike

I mow very steep land that is also very rough. I found this system works great with steep approach and departure angles. It allows the rear of the mower to push up on approach and the chains limit the travel of the mower when I go over the top.

Cheers

 

[aczlan]

I was browsing around last week on TBN and I read a couple of threads about people who are using a chain in place of the top link for their bush hog. Something about it being better if you are cutting a rough area because the chain lets the bush hog move around more than the stiff top link does. Or, at least that's what I remembered about the conversation. Anyway, in all the discussion about using a chain no one had provided a picture to illustrate this setup. Does anyone have one that they can post to let me see how this works?

I have my chains running from the 3 point hitch frame to the deck as seen at: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/177784-rotary-cutter-id-please.html
However, the chains now attach behind the gearbox instead of in front of it.

Aaron Z

 

[LD1]

I mow very steep land that is also very rough. I found this system works great with steep approach and departure angles. It allows the rear of the mower to push up on approach and the chains limit the travel of the mower when I go over the top.

Cheers

I have my chains running from the 3 point hitch frame to the deck as seen at: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/177784-rotary-cutter-id-please.html
However, the chains now attach behind the gearbox instead of in front of it.

Aaron Z

This is the same set-up I have on my Bushhog model 105. ANd the same as I had on an old modern-sunshine cutter. And soon to be converted is my 360 bushhog.

I will note that the chains are much benefit for "rough" terrain. They are mainly for hilly terrain. As mentioned, the approach and departure angles. Having a chain allows the bushhog to follow the terrain better. And like when backing up to a hillside, a chain will allow the wheel to and the rear of the hog to raise up to the angle of the hill, instead of the WHOLE cutter when using a ridgid set-up.

So, I agree with those who say..keep the TL ridgid, add chains from that point down to the deck where the angle "straps" usually are. For a 5-6' cutter, if you have 1 strap, use a 3/8" chain. If you have two angled straps, remove them and use 2 5/16 chains.

Heres a pic of the 105 with chain. And I will also note that having the chain like this makes it easier to hook up as well.

 

[rd_macgregor]

My brush mower needed a really slack support chain for it to follow contours properly, but this sometimes allowed the chain to slip under the slip clutch shield when going through steep dips (when the chain would go REALLY slack) and contacting the rotating U-joint. I fixed this problem by installing a retaining bracket on top of the shield and also slid an old bicycle inner tube over the (replacement!) chain to keep it from slapping paint off the shield.
In transport, I just tighten the top link until the chain is taut, then loosen it way up to mow. If the rear wheel comes off the ground when you go over a rise, it will rotate then slam down on the ground as you level out and, eventually, the wheel fork WILL get bent/broken...so, you need either no top support or a really slack support chain.

BOB

 

[LD1]

My brush mower needed a really slack support chain for it to follow contours properly, but this sometimes allowed the chain to slip under the slip clutch shield when going through steep dips (when the chain would go REALLY slack) and contacting the rotating U-joint. I fixed this problem by installing a retaining bracket on top of the shield and also slid an old bicycle inner tube over the (replacement!) chain to keep it from slapping paint off the shield.
In transport, I just tighten the top link until the chain is taut, then loosen it way up to mow. If the rear wheel comes off the ground when you go over a rise, it will rotate then slam down on the ground as you level out and, eventually, the wheel fork WILL get bent/broken...so, you need either no top support or a really slack support chain.

BOB

The geometry of that cutter is quite a bit different than the ones I have ran chains on. I can see where you were having the problems.

What brand/model is that cutter BTW?

 

[EddieWalker]

While I can see where the chains allow the mower to follow the controu when cutting through a valley, or going from flat to up hill, I don't understand what the advantage is to them when going over a ridge or a high point?

Why even have them on there?

Eddie

 

[LD1]

While I can see where the chains allow the mower to follow the controu when cutting through a valley, or going from flat to up hill, I don't understand what the advantage is to them when going over a ridge or a high point?

Why even have them on there?

Eddie

It simply just allows the mower to follow the terrain better.

With a ridgid setup, the mower cannot change angles. It follows the angle of the tractor.

With chains, the angle of the mower can move independently from the tractor. Allowing the mower to maintain a more even cut on rolling terrain.

I really can explain it any better than that. Its just one of them things that unless you have never used a mower with chains, it is hard to understand.

 

[Soundguy]

most new mowers have a flex link or slotted connection point to allow for that.

soundguy