Dirt Moving Tips on using a scraper blade

[Canuck_49]

Hey Guys - any of you more experienced users have any tips and tricks for using a scraper blade properly, besides practice, practice, practice i.e. tractor speed, blade angle and depth etc?

I live off a dirt road and got a 7' blade for my 3510. It handles the blade with no problem, but I made more of a mess than I intended! :laughing:

 

[smstonypoint]

Check out Ted Corriher's how-to videos. He has one on using a scrape blade for snow removal. You may pick up some tips.

How To Video Demos - Implements & Attachments

Steve

PS: I just noticed you are in Florida so snow removal shouldn't be a problem. Nonetheless, the video may provide some useful info.

 

[atgreene]

The goal is to crown the driveway so water sheds off.

Pull the material to the center then do a light pass down the center to level off the center.

Make many light passes.
Pick out rocks and grass etc..., do not grade it into the mix.
If set properly the material should roll in front of the blade forcing it to mix the material.

Here is a great page that will teach you the proper way to grade and shape a road.

Minnesota LTAP - Videos: Gravel Roads Maintenance

This vid covers tha basics. This is for roads, but the concept is the same no matter what you are grading. Minnesota LTAP - Gravel Roads Maintenance Video, Part 2: Correct Roadway Shape

Hope this helps, Good luck.

 

[Canuck_49]

Thanks Guys. I appreciate your responses.

 

[teg]

I use mine with the blade facing backwards and me driving forward to help smooth things out. Raising one side of the 3ph with the blade angled, moves dirt/gravel to the middle. That's all I got... play with it... change the top link long or short for more or less aggessive cutting.

 

[LD1]

Not really a tip, but an FYI

Lengthen the top-link makes the cutting edge more agressive and tries to cut in deeper. Which will require more HP and traction.

Shortening has the opposite effect. Less agressive.

Different conditions warrent different settings. Sort material, shorten the top link as to not be too agressive, otherwise it will stall you dead in your tracks.

Hard packed and dry clay with a short top link is like dragging across concrete. You need to lengthen accordingly.

Also, using the blade backwards is sometimes better for smoothing/grading.

 

[/pine]

The best tip I can think of for novice users is...if you don't already have a hydraulic toplink...get one...or plan on spending as much time adjusting the angle on the blade as you do in the seat...

 

[Canuck_49]

Thanks again Guys. This is a great site! :thumbsup:

 

[JNA]

just bought an 8' scraper. Do I need a hydraulic top link? Everything else is hydraulic and I only have 3 valves.

 

[LD1]

just bought an 8' scraper. Do I need a hydraulic top link? Everything else is hydraulic and I only have 3 valves.

It's not required but it's handy.

The only time I use my hydraulic toplink with my full hydraulic blade is if I need to raise it higher for more clearance.

Because you need to keep the pivot pin that the blade rotates around perpendicular. So that when you angle the blade...it remains level.

If you have the toplink too short...that makes the front edge of the blade dig in the ground when angled. If toplink is too long....the back edge when angled will dig in.

 

[mopardude318]

Even with a hydraulic top link I have found the rear blade I recently purchased (LandPride RBT 4596) is difficult for me to use. I sure jacked my road up last week and just left it after I couldn't fix it. LOL. I haven't used it much but when I do, I get frustrated. Maybe I'll stick to a box blade and buy a good heavy Land Plane.

 

[JNA]

I don't know how to control a 4th hydraulic cylinder.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I don't know how to control a 4th hydraulic cylinder.

You need to get a diverter, maybe even 2. Bolt them directly on top of your existing rear remote valves.

Scroll down to the 3rd & 4th lines of the link, this is only an M6040, but the valves are actually the same other than flipped over for the larger M series.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Even with a hydraulic top link I have found the rear blade I recently purchased (LandPride RBT 4596) is difficult for me to use. I sure jacked my road up last week and just left it after I couldn't fix it. LOL. I haven't used it much but when I do, I get frustrated. Maybe I'll stick to a box blade and buy a good heavy Land Plane.

Slow down when you use the rear blade, any grading implement for that matter. Think about what you want the blade to do. I have found that setting the blade boom level so that the blade does not tilt when you swing left to right works out best for me. During the learning curve, never set the skid shoes for more than a 1" cut. I know people will argue about this, but learn how to make FULL USE of the draft control and most of your problems will go away.

And I do agree, get one of these 7' LPGS for the majority of your road maintenance. And there is no good reason IMO to get one with all the hydraulic-adjustable BS that some have. It's simply not needed.

Just my :2cents: and what has worked VERY well for me and my conditions.

 

[oosik]

I've used a rear blade on my mile long gravel driveway for over 37 years. Both summer and winter. Success in using a rear blade is more an art than a science. I still find that it can create more problems than it solves.

It's better to make multiple shallow passes than one deeper pass. Don't try to correct problems when your driveway is still soggy or muddy. Wait until it still shows moisture in the surface material but doesn't clump or ball when you make a pass.

My rear blade is one of the most difficult implements to use successfully, that I own. However, when the conditions are right and I do it right - the results are very satisfying. My hydraulic top link has been a great assist.

Anybody can drag a rear blade down their driveway. But, are you happy with the results??

 

[JNA]

You need to get a diverter, maybe even 2. Bolt them directly on top of your existing rear remote valves.

Scroll down to the 3rd & 4th lines of the link, this is only an M6040, but the valves are actually the same other than flipped over for the larger M series.

Thanks for the info on the diverter have used on other equip. The scraper is new to me but I like to learn.

 

[JNA]

I don't have skid shoes on my rear blade. Should I build some or just wing it (scraping leaf matter off of crushed limestone so I can add 3" of washout)?
My 1st job with blade.

 

[Cougsfan]

Seems to me like one of the secrets of getting a good grading job is to do it when the moisture in the ground is just right. Too wet and you are in danger of cutting too deep and leaving a soft mushy surface. Too dry and it is too hard to cut and doesn't pack well. It probably varies depending on your location and road material, but it sure seems true where I live.

 

[LD1]

I don't have skid shoes on my rear blade. Should I build some or just wing it (scraping leaf matter off of crushed limestone so I can add 3" of washout)?
My 1st job with blade.

That shounds like a job for a landscape rake, not a blade

 

[Egon]

Put on some gauge wheels. Makes a lot of problems go away.