Dirt Moving Tips on using a scraper blade

[Canuck_49]

Hey Guys - any of you more experienced users have any tips and tricks for using a scraper blade properly, besides practice, practice, practice i.e. tractor speed, blade angle and depth etc?

I live off a dirt road and got a 7' blade for my 3510. It handles the blade with no problem, but I made more of a mess than I intended! :laughing:

 

[smstonypoint]

Check out Ted Corriher's how-to videos. He has one on using a scrape blade for snow removal. You may pick up some tips.

How To Video Demos - Implements & Attachments

Steve

PS: I just noticed you are in Florida so snow removal shouldn't be a problem. Nonetheless, the video may provide some useful info.

 

[atgreene]

The goal is to crown the driveway so water sheds off.

Pull the material to the center then do a light pass down the center to level off the center.

Make many light passes.
Pick out rocks and grass etc..., do not grade it into the mix.
If set properly the material should roll in front of the blade forcing it to mix the material.

Here is a great page that will teach you the proper way to grade and shape a road.

Minnesota LTAP - Videos: Gravel Roads Maintenance

This vid covers tha basics. This is for roads, but the concept is the same no matter what you are grading. Minnesota LTAP - Gravel Roads Maintenance Video, Part 2: Correct Roadway Shape

Hope this helps, Good luck.

 

[Canuck_49]

Thanks Guys. I appreciate your responses.

 

[teg]

I use mine with the blade facing backwards and me driving forward to help smooth things out. Raising one side of the 3ph with the blade angled, moves dirt/gravel to the middle. That's all I got... play with it... change the top link long or short for more or less aggessive cutting.

 

[LD1]

Not really a tip, but an FYI

Lengthen the top-link makes the cutting edge more agressive and tries to cut in deeper. Which will require more HP and traction.

Shortening has the opposite effect. Less agressive.

Different conditions warrent different settings. Sort material, shorten the top link as to not be too agressive, otherwise it will stall you dead in your tracks.

Hard packed and dry clay with a short top link is like dragging across concrete. You need to lengthen accordingly.

Also, using the blade backwards is sometimes better for smoothing/grading.

 

[/pine]

The best tip I can think of for novice users is...if you don't already have a hydraulic toplink...get one...or plan on spending as much time adjusting the angle on the blade as you do in the seat...

 

[Canuck_49]

Thanks again Guys. This is a great site! :thumbsup:

 

[JNA]

just bought an 8' scraper. Do I need a hydraulic top link? Everything else is hydraulic and I only have 3 valves.

 

[LD1]

just bought an 8' scraper. Do I need a hydraulic top link? Everything else is hydraulic and I only have 3 valves.

It's not required but it's handy.

The only time I use my hydraulic toplink with my full hydraulic blade is if I need to raise it higher for more clearance.

Because you need to keep the pivot pin that the blade rotates around perpendicular. So that when you angle the blade...it remains level.

If you have the toplink too short...that makes the front edge of the blade dig in the ground when angled. If toplink is too long....the back edge when angled will dig in.