Dirt Moving Tips on using a scraper blade

[mopardude318]

Even with a hydraulic top link I have found the rear blade I recently purchased (LandPride RBT 4596) is difficult for me to use. I sure jacked my road up last week and just left it after I couldn't fix it. LOL. I haven't used it much but when I do, I get frustrated. Maybe I'll stick to a box blade and buy a good heavy Land Plane.

 

[JNA]

I don't know how to control a 4th hydraulic cylinder.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I don't know how to control a 4th hydraulic cylinder.

You need to get a diverter, maybe even 2. Bolt them directly on top of your existing rear remote valves.

Scroll down to the 3rd & 4th lines of the link, this is only an M6040, but the valves are actually the same other than flipped over for the larger M series.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Even with a hydraulic top link I have found the rear blade I recently purchased (LandPride RBT 4596) is difficult for me to use. I sure jacked my road up last week and just left it after I couldn't fix it. LOL. I haven't used it much but when I do, I get frustrated. Maybe I'll stick to a box blade and buy a good heavy Land Plane.

Slow down when you use the rear blade, any grading implement for that matter. Think about what you want the blade to do. I have found that setting the blade boom level so that the blade does not tilt when you swing left to right works out best for me. During the learning curve, never set the skid shoes for more than a 1" cut. I know people will argue about this, but learn how to make FULL USE of the draft control and most of your problems will go away.

And I do agree, get one of these 7' LPGS for the majority of your road maintenance. And there is no good reason IMO to get one with all the hydraulic-adjustable BS that some have. It's simply not needed.

Just my :2cents: and what has worked VERY well for me and my conditions.

 

[oosik]

I've used a rear blade on my mile long gravel driveway for over 37 years. Both summer and winter. Success in using a rear blade is more an art than a science. I still find that it can create more problems than it solves.

It's better to make multiple shallow passes than one deeper pass. Don't try to correct problems when your driveway is still soggy or muddy. Wait until it still shows moisture in the surface material but doesn't clump or ball when you make a pass.

My rear blade is one of the most difficult implements to use successfully, that I own. However, when the conditions are right and I do it right - the results are very satisfying. My hydraulic top link has been a great assist.

Anybody can drag a rear blade down their driveway. But, are you happy with the results??

 

[JNA]

You need to get a diverter, maybe even 2. Bolt them directly on top of your existing rear remote valves.

Scroll down to the 3rd & 4th lines of the link, this is only an M6040, but the valves are actually the same other than flipped over for the larger M series.

Thanks for the info on the diverter have used on other equip. The scraper is new to me but I like to learn.

 

[JNA]

I don't have skid shoes on my rear blade. Should I build some or just wing it (scraping leaf matter off of crushed limestone so I can add 3" of washout)?
My 1st job with blade.

 

[Cougsfan]

Seems to me like one of the secrets of getting a good grading job is to do it when the moisture in the ground is just right. Too wet and you are in danger of cutting too deep and leaving a soft mushy surface. Too dry and it is too hard to cut and doesn't pack well. It probably varies depending on your location and road material, but it sure seems true where I live.

 

[LD1]

I don't have skid shoes on my rear blade. Should I build some or just wing it (scraping leaf matter off of crushed limestone so I can add 3" of washout)?
My 1st job with blade.

That shounds like a job for a landscape rake, not a blade

 

[Egon]

Put on some gauge wheels. Makes a lot of problems go away.