Timber Tuff chainsaw sharpener, Any good?

[Scooby074]

Are the Timber Tuff sharpeners any good?

Sort of looks like the original Oregon 511A

And real close to the Carleton that used to be sold by Baleys

And the Northern Tool http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200327449_200327449



For comparison, here is the Timber tuff

It sure looks better than the Harbour Freight all plastic model . Of course its not quite as nice as the top line models, but its currently on sale at Princess Auto for $129 ($60 off) Upright Bench Mount Electric Chainsaw Chain Sharpener | Princess Auto

Worth it?

 

[Deere Dude]

I am just a homeowner that burns wood and I got one after using a $29 HF one for years. I like the Timber Tuff sharpener very much. It has plenty power, a work light and seems sturdy. I never used an Oregon sharpener, but at $100 +, you can't go wrong. I would buy one again.

 

[Treemonkey1000]

I can't tell if that is a plastic or metal body painted green. I am guessing it should work just as well as the others. Keep it clean from chainsaw dust and good wheels on it that should work great. I have the German built Maxx which does a pretty good job on all sorts of chains with the different angles.

 

[Ductape]

It is a green painted version of the Northern Tool grinder that has been so popular....... essentially a knock-off of the Oregon. I have the Northern Tool version and love it. For sure it would benefit from better quality wheels, but does work well as-is. Once you get beyond a saw or two.... you need your own grinder. My local shop was charging $13 per chain. It didn't take long for the grinder to pay for itself.

 

[studor]

I have the Harbour Freight sharpener and my friend has the Timbertuff he bought on sale at TSC Stores (for about $100 - cheaper than PA) The TT machine is much better than the HF machine and does a great job- The bigger wheel and metal pieces make for a better, more precise cut. Princess Auto also have a blue plastic machine that is similar to the HF machine in price and size. All of these machines beat the other methods if jigs etc I have tried but if I were making the decision today I would buy the TT machine -- JMHO

 

[20 20]

You can save yourself money and time buy just using a dremel with the proper bit if/when needed. I have cut thousands of face cords of wood over the years and do most sharpening by hand (not a hard job) when something does go wrong (hidden rock, medal in a tree etc) I use the dremel to bring things back to where they need to be. Nothing against these sharpeners and it is just my opinion but they really are not needed especailly for the home owner or the smaller tree wackers.

 

[Deere Dude]

You can save yourself money and time buy just using a dremel with the proper bit if/when needed. I have cut thousands of face cords of wood over the years and do most sharpening by hand (not a hard job) when something does go wrong (hidden rock, medal in a tree etc) I use the dremel to bring things back to where they need to be. Nothing against these sharpeners and it is just my opinion but they really are not needed especailly for the home owner or the smaller tree wackers.

That is especially why these types are so nice for home owners. These sharpeners are solid and makes it hard to mess up a chain. If someone had an expert to show how to file one by hand or use a dremel type sharpener that may be the way to go, but the learning curve is very quick and foolproof on sharpeners like the Timber Tuff, which is painter metal,

 

[studor]

If someone had an expert to show how to file one by hand or use a dremel type sharpener that may be the way to go

Only if the expert continues to do it for you
I had an "expert" show me how to sharpen using the dremel, a Granberg jig and a straight handfile -- when I showed him the HF unit he thought it was the cats meow -- I can dig a trench with a shovel if I need to -- doesn't mean I won't use the FEL or a middle buster cause its easier, faster and more likely to be straight

 

[20 20]

Deere Dude and Studer;

1st you don't have to be an expert, it takes a little practice to learn. Much like ridding a bike or driving a car, actually both of the last two mentions are easier.

2nd Only if the expert continues to do it for you really folks, if you can run the saw then there is NO reason you can't learn to use a dremel or a hand sharpener.
when I showed him the HF unit he thought it was the cats meow What was he an expert at :laughing:

I can dig a trench with a shovel if I need to -- doesn't mean I won't use the FEL or a middle buster cause its easier, faster and more likely to be straight Sorry to read you feel this way, I can out sharpen one of these units hands down and have a better result in the end. With this written if this toy is what you want then have fun, just wanted to write there are more way to skin a cat(so to say). Sharpening by hand is not hard and once it is learned it can come in very handy especially in the field(woods) which is where my wood is at. I allmost never use the dremel except when I've hit something, usually something buried in the tree, nail, arrow head, etc...

 

[Deere Dude]

Deere Dude and Studer;

1st you don't have to be an expert, it takes a little practice to learn. Much like ridding a bike or driving a car, actually both of the last two mentions are easier.

2nd Only if the expert continues to do it for you really folks, if you can run the saw then there is NO reason you can't learn to use a dremel or a hand sharpener.
when I showed him the HF unit he thought it was the cats meow What was he an expert at :laughing:

I can dig a trench with a shovel if I need to -- doesn't mean I won't use the FEL or a middle buster cause its easier, faster and more likely to be straight Sorry to read you feel this way, I can out sharpen one of these units hands down and have a better result in the end. With this written if this toy is what you want then have fun, just wanted to write there are more way to skin a cat(so to say). Sharpening by hand is not hard and once it is learned it can come in very handy especially in the field(woods) which is where my wood is at. I allmost never use the dremel except when I've hit something, usually something buried in the tree, nail, arrow head, etc...

I have no doubt sharpening by hand would be a handy skill to have. I only know one person, an acquaintance who I haven't seen in 10 years, that sharpens by hand but lives 30 miles away. I always wanted to know how to sharpen by hand and even have some files and a dremel motor and attachments. I possibly could learn how to do it that way and did try sharpening one from reading the directions but it seemed very difficult and confusing and just didn't work out. Although I am sure it's not that hard, if you know how to do it.

But, another friend had a cheapo HF sharpener and he showed me how to do it in 5 minutes. I bought a Timber Tuff and plowed right in and sharpened one in 20 minutes. What I do is have half a dozen chains and when they are bad, I sit down and sharpen them all in one crack while listening to some old country music. There are negative arguments that you have to take the chain off the saw to sharpen them, but that is not a big deal. It works for me. But sharpening by hand is a skill I would still like to have, but I need someone to take me by the hand and show me how.

 

[studor]

Sorry 20 20 -- did not mean to offend you. The expert was a chainsaw repair guy in the business for about 50 years -- his comment was that for the money the sharpener was a great deal. I can sharpen by hand but don't find it terribly rewarding -- and I for one cannot do as good a job by hand as I can with a jig or the machine -- most times I carry spare chains to the bush and sharpen them in batches like Deere Dude - each to his own

 

[crazyal]

I bought on of the HF specials when it was on sale. After using it a couple of times I switched back to the Dremel. Nobody showed me how to use either, for that matter nobody ever showed me how to file a chain. I find the Dremel with a sharpening stone removes the metal slower and makes a much nicer edge. If you look at the tooth you can see where you need to grind to sharpen it.

 

[20 20]

Studor, no offence taken I didn't mean to come off cross, just trying to figure why it's so tough to sharpen a saw?

I am sitting here reading some of the post and have to wonder if those of you who can't sharpen by hand might be over thinking the process? 20minutes to sharpen a chain with a fancy grinder, did I read that correct? Even on a badly damaged chain it wouldn't take me 20minutes. Would that be counting the time taking the chain off and placing back? If you folks were closer I could probably teach you how to sharpen and beat those fancy (IMO) expensive grinders, in about 15-20 min. I have one trick that I can share that I have seen some do. Some times folks feel they need to force the file through the blade, it's better to just keep a gentle even pressure all the way through. You'll find that will work faster and do a much better job. should take less then 5minutes to sharpen a normal wear chain. Something that's hit some dirt and is a little more beat might take up to 10minutes. This counts locking the saw into the vice(whether it be a stump vice or what ever), and marking the blade with a crayon. I've only used a gauge a few times found out they're more of a pain then they're worth. I will write though, with age comes loss of sight, so now the glasses have to come out. I have a friend that will only sharpen by hand but unlike me he feels the gauge keeps him inline. Maybe he has a better gauge then what I had(don't know). Not knocking your train of thought, just thought I'd try to save you some $$$. On a good note you'll have a new toy to play with

 

[20 20]

I bought on of the HF specials when it was on sale. After using it a couple of times I switched back to the Dremel. Nobody showed me how to use either, for that matter nobody ever showed me how to file a chain. I find the Dremel with a sharpening stone removes the metal slower and makes a much nicer edge. If you look at the tooth you can see where you need to grind to sharpen it.

Funny you mentioned this, yrs back my neighbor and I where cutting, he got upset because my ____brand was beating his bigger _____brand saw. He said it must be the saw and how his was junk, blah blah blah. I told him there was nothing wrong with his saw except a bad chain. So when we got back home he sharpened his saw and I sharpened mine, back out to the woods and same thing happens. I asked how he was sharpening, he had a very expensive table grinder, seemed like it took forever to sharpen one blade. He asked how I sharpened mine so I told him mostly by hand but ocassional if teeth were real messed up I'd use the dremel. He just shook his head. He was very hard headed and hated to admit that his expensive grinder could be out done by plain ole elbow grease, and in much less time. He also told me a chain was only good for about 8-10 sharpenings(on that grinder) and then it was time for a new one :laughing: :laughing: Well he never would change his thought process, went out and bought a new saw. Infact he gets a new one about every year still thinks it's the saws he's buying I quess whether sharpening by hand or expensive machine one still needs to have a feel for the blade and how to get the most out of it.

 

[cqaigy2]

My Dad showed me how to sharpen a chain by hand, then i showed him how to do it better. He started me off and i figured a few thing out by looking at the teeth and raker but basically followed how the teeth are set up. Doesn't take long and i get to rest for about 10 minutes to put the edge on and start back up. I think the chains last longer as well. Grinders seem to take a fair bit of material away which is fine if you've really dinged your chain. BTW why do people call chainsaw chains, blades?

 

[20 20]

BTW why do people call chainsaw chains, blades?

I usually call them chains but I was trying not to confuse anyone. In all honesty it is a small blade that we sharpen not the chain itself

It's good that you could improve on your dads style I did the same, as it should be. There is an old saying about the student becoming the master, can't remember how it goes.

I have another question, how far do most of you let your chains/blades get down before a replace? Just curious, I have seen a few cases where all I could do was shake my head. Some IMO had lots of wear left, while others snapped and should have been long gone.

 

[Scooby074]

THanks for the comments.

I purchased the TimberTuff yesterday at PA. I'll try to post up a review after i fire it up the first time.

 

[Turbys_1700]

I bought one of the cheapie Harbor Freights back several months ago...
For a home owner non professional it is ok...
I had a bunch of chains to sharpen after getting my dad's 8 old homelites running...
Up until then I just sharpened with a hand file...
My dad taught me how to do it many years ago...
For the cost of the cheapie Harbor Freight unit I wanted something to play with...
If I was a professional it would be marginal at best...
For a homeowner it is more than adequate...
For $29 it is a good value IMHO...

 

[JPRambo]

Why not try one of these
Oregon 5/32in. File Guide — Model# 37534 | Chain Saw Sharpeners, Maintenance Repair| Northern Tool + Equipment
dont need to remove the chain from saw.
I use it every time it's very fast and easy to use

 

[Lloyd_E]

I just finished sharpening my two saws today - husk 455 and stihl 025. I will do the other stihl tomorrow. The first thing I do is to take a flat file and file the angle of the tooth parallel to the line on the tooth. This takes out the little dings, roundness and bad chips. I then continue to sharpen as normal with a round file. One thing I did learn over the years is if your saw pulls to one side and not down straight through the log when chunking it means your teeth are longer on one side. I am left handed so when filling I always put a little more power into the stroke. I now pay more attention to the length of the tooth. I usually touch up the saw in the field but when I am back home I disassemble and clean the saw, reassemble and then sharpen the saw. That way you have completed a bit of maintenance plus sharpened your saw too.

Play safe!