Chainsaw Sharpener Advice

   / Chainsaw Sharpener Advice #1  

TJP89

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Kioti CK35 HST TL, Gravely ZTHD
OK, this spring I decided to start cutting,splitting, and stacking all my firewood myself. Very quickly it became apparent that the Husqvarna 350, which had been great for small cutting and trimming, wasn't going to cut it (pun intended). So I bought a Stihl MS362cm with a 20" bar and tried it out. It works beautifully. But after a few weeks, I realized that the unguided file I was using to sharpen both saws wasn't working out that great, and performance was hugely degraded. So I looked and asked around, and discovered that an unguided file isn't the best way. So, now I have two types of sharpener I'm looking at, and would like y'alls advice on which one to get.

The first type is a gizmo that attaches to the bar, and guides the file, I guess the thinking is the angle is much more exact than freehand. Example below
Amazon.com : Granberg Bar-Mount Chain Saw Sharpener, Model# G-106B [Lawn & Patio] : Oregon Chainsaw Sharpener : Patio, Lawn & Garden

The 2nd is a powered one, where the chain has to come off the bar. I assume on this that the angle can be set as well. My worry on this is that it's too easy to take to much off, thus ruining the chain. Example below.
Amazon.com: Buffalo Tools ECSS Electric Chainsaw Sharpener: Home Improvement

The instructions aren't real helpful, and youtube seems to have failed me here. My questions are, how exactly do either of these work, and is one better than the other. All advice appreciated.

(Not sure this is the best place to post this, I think a chainsaw subforum would be a great addition)
 
   / Chainsaw Sharpener Advice #2  
I would stay away from the electric sharpening, due to just as much as screwing up the chain worse than it is now. the electric sharpening will require you to set the angle, how much to take off, and reshaping the wheel as it wears. the manual file holder types sharpeners work well but are not as fast as an electric sharpener.
 
   / Chainsaw Sharpener Advice #3  
There is a chainsaw sub-forum, in the Related Equipment...Lawn and Garden forum.

I've been using the Granberg File 'N Joint that you linked to for many years now. It works great for me! Simply set the angles, do about 4 strokes per cutter, turn around, and repeat for the other-handed cutters.
 
   / Chainsaw Sharpener Advice #4  
I hand file mine most of the time, and then occasionally take the chains to a shop to get them 'evened up'. I find that if I file them after a couple tanks, I can keep them within 90% if the saw shop's sharpening performance. In other words, a new chain rated as a 10, after becoming somewhat dull would be rated at a 5 or 6. After a hand file consisting of 4 even file strokes on each tooth, I am back up to a 9. This saves me time and money.
Also, be sure to file the rakers. The gauges for that are cheap.
The electric sharpeners get great reviews, but I'd rather keep mine touched up more often and not have to remove chains to do it.
 
   / Chainsaw Sharpener Advice #5  
Want to follow this post. Always interested if there is a better way.
 
   / Chainsaw Sharpener Advice #6  
I bought one of these and have been really happy with it. It's also had great reviews.

Timberline sharpener

I posted a thread about it a while back. here it is
 
   / Chainsaw Sharpener Advice #7  
I used a bar-mounted file guide for years, and hand filed 3-4 times before "cleaning up" with the bar-mounted guide.

After paying a ridiculous fee (I could have bought new chain for about the same price) and waiting 10 days at a saw shop to have it "professionally" sharpened, I bought one of these.

I've never looked back.
 
   / Chainsaw Sharpener Advice #8  
I've said it before and it bears repeating. You need an old man to slap you upside the head if you hand him anything less than a sharp saw. You'll learn very quickly how to freehand sharp cutters every time ;)
 
   / Chainsaw Sharpener Advice #9  
I hand sharpen my chains. But if I hit something like a nail in a tree then dad has an electric harbor freight sharpener that I'll use. I will touch up the chain every time I stop for gas and oil. Maybe all you need to do is knock down your rakes and your hand filing will be fine.
 
   / Chainsaw Sharpener Advice #10  
I used a bar-mounted file guide for years, and hand filed 3-4 times before "cleaning up" with the bar-mounted guide.

After paying a ridiculous fee (I could have bought new chain for about the same price) and waiting 10 days at a saw shop to have it "professionally" sharpened, I bought one of these.

I've never looked back.

I bought one of these and I think they are nice. Next for me would have been an Oregon electric sharpener.

I have 4 or 5 chains and when I use them I change them, then sit down some day and sharpen and oil them all. Works for me. I had a Harbor Freight 30$ one and it didn't seem to grind decently. The Timber Tuff is sturdy.

Some have told me to just hand sharpen them, but if that was the best way then the shops would just sell their professional sharpeners and so it by hand. Electric for me any day to get all the cutters nice.
 
 
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