Chainsaw Sharpener Advice

[JKR]

I have a Oregon 511AX.
Amazon.com: Oregon 511AX Saw Chain Bench Grinder/Sharpener: Patio, Lawn & Garden

I used it on my chains. I find it's the best shop sharpener you can buy. When I go out and cut some fallen trees you may cut the whole tree with one chain or hit some dirt and need to sharpen or replace a chain.
I carry two chains with me most of the time.
After I'm done I will sharpen the chains for the next time needed.
If I use my smaller saw I will use the Timberline sharpener. I think it's the best on the bar sharpener you can get.
The Timberline will always be will any saw I use away from my shop.


I use to take my chains to get them sharpen . It was hit or miss. When you put on a chain that was just sharpen and it was worst than the one you took of it's time to do it your self.

 

[newbury]

I bought one of these and I think they are nice. Next for me would have been an Oregon electric sharpener.

I have 4 or 5 chains and when I use them I change them, then sit down some day and sharpen and oil them all. Works for me. I had a Harbor Freight 30$ one and it didn't seem to grind decently. The Timber Tuff is sturdy.

Some have told me to just hand sharpen them, but if that was the best way then the shops would just sell their professional sharpeners and so it by hand. Electric for me any day to get all the cutters nice.

Sharpening chains is like a 3 legged stool, you need to balance your time, your money, and your need.
If it's going to take me 30 minutes to take them to a shop that's time.
If it's going to cost $20/ chain that's money
If I'm out in the woods, have dulled 2 of my chains then damage my last chain on a rock in the bark that's need.

I've got 5 saws, probably 8 bars, from 10" to 42", and about 4 chains per bar for the > 20" bars. Ideally I'd carry several chains, dull them down then hand them to a professional sharpener next door for a few $$. That ain't happening.

As I posted in 2010 when you need to sharpen a LOT and local sharpening is bad, expensive or both:

Seems like a lot of discussion on hand filing. Knowing how to hand file should be mandatory for anyone running a chain saw. But being able to keep all the angles proper and the rakers at the right depth is a difficult feat to master.
As I think I've posted elsewhere here I'm into chain saw milling.

I generally need to either swap or "touch up" chains about every 10' to 15' of 20" hardwood to keep every thing running smoothly. So my process is to hand file while outside, usually with a file and a Carlton File-O-Plate (FOP). That's the $5 solution.

Then when I get them inside (generally after having been "touched up" three times) I use a Granberg File'n Joint (a fancy file guide/jig) which is the $30 solution. This is probably good enough for most firewood cutters, especially if they don't rock the chain.

Then after 3 or so "Granberg" sharpenings (which would include about 9 or 10 FOP filings) I put it on the NT grinder to "true" all the angles up. That's the $100 solution.

One of the problems if you get your angles off is that the cut starts to curve a little, not much of a problem on a 2' crosscut, but a major problem on a 10' rip. Another is if you hit a nail or a rock and damage a few teeth, it's easier to grind them to get back in shape.

Now I've gotten better since 2010. My hand-filing seems to have gotten better and I don't use a FOP. Also Oregon has come out with a lower priced sharpener that beats most other "inexpensive" sharpeners. When I bought my Northern Tool sharpener for about $90 Oregon's was about $400.

Also if all you are doing is cross-cutting it's not as hard on the teeth and generally they stay sharper longer.

Keep your logs clean, don't cut in the dirt (low trunk, roots) and it ll goes much easier.

 

[Piston]

Well, I got nothing to add but a great big thank you! I have been looking for a nicer sharpener for a while now. Got a new Husky 460 this year, first new chain saw in 30 years. Finally retired the old homelite super XL. This Timerberline ya'll speak of fits the bill perfectly. Like many I have always sharpened knives and chains by hand. Using a guide is no less manly and results are greatly improved. Plus I have an affinity for machined devices. This appears to be finely made device that still allows for working something by hand. Hope the inventor becomes rich off it.

You'll love the timberline, even more so because you appreciate fine tools.

I love how it grinds each and every tooth to the exact same length. It makes getting a perfectly sharp chain very easy, and in turn, is a lot easier to set all the depth gauges correctly.

 

[LD1]

I like the granberg file guide.

 

[Paddy]

Sarg,

I second the dremel with the special stone. The way I look at it, chains are cheep so I free hand sharpen them. As they get out of wack, I use them for stump and root cutting. I've been doing this for 30 years and my free hand sharpening works pretty good

I have three saws, two use the same chain. Old saw gets the old chains for cutting dirty wood.

 

[clemsonfor]

I have the unit from Norther Tool, its the same as the Timber Tuff model seen in other places and on Ebay. On sale at NOrthern its $99. I used a 20% off that also. Its well worth the money. I also have the cheap HF unit. That works and if you sharpen maybe 2 chains a year is fine, but you dont get the consistency of the northern unit and the range of adjustment. It also comes with all the wheels and a light.

I can link to it if any one is concerned. I cut all my own wood for my home and that amouts to 2-3 cords a year, and do some cutting for a freind as well. I sharpen a few dozen chains a year at least.

 

[clemsonfor]

OK, this spring I decided to start cutting,splitting, and stacking all my firewood myself. Very quickly it became apparent that the Husqvarna 350, which had been great for small cutting and trimming, wasn't going to cut it (pun intended). So I bought a Stihl MS362cm with a 20" bar and tried it out. It works beautifully. But after a few weeks, I realized that the unguided file I was using to sharpen both saws wasn't working out that great, and performance was hugely degraded. So I looked and asked around, and discovered that an unguided file isn't the best way. So, now I have two types of sharpener I'm looking at, and would like y'alls advice on which one to get.

The first type is a gizmo that attaches to the bar, and guides the file, I guess the thinking is the angle is much more exact than freehand. Example below
Amazon.com : Granberg Bar-Mount Chain Saw Sharpener, Model# G-106B [Lawn & Patio] : Oregon Chainsaw Sharpener : Patio, Lawn & Garden

The 2nd is a powered one, where the chain has to come off the bar. I assume on this that the angle can be set as well. My worry on this is that it's too easy to take to much off, thus ruining the chain. Example below.
Amazon.com: Buffalo Tools ECSS Electric Chainsaw Sharpener: Home Improvement

The instructions aren't real helpful, and youtube seems to have failed me here. My questions are, how exactly do either of these work, and is one better than the other. All advice appreciated.

(Not sure this is the best place to post this, I think a chainsaw subforum would be a great addition)

Lots of guys on the saw forums i am on use or have the Ganberg one. I have heard its a great unit and helps you learn to hand file well. One day you probably wont need it.

I am impatient and just grind my chains and take a half dozen or less to the woods. and swap chains and grind them back at the house later.

 

[jim44]

I have the Buffalo Tools sharpener. It's pretty hard to beat at $42. Likely won't last very long, but has paid for itself at least twice for me so far.

 

[Gitche Gumee Kid]

would it be possible to use one of these electrical sharpening units to convert an old dull chain into a "rip" type chain?

GGK

 

[NWOutlawMX]

I have the harbor freight model, I have the Timberline (for sale) .... Frustrated with high tech quality products...nothing beats the simplicity of a hand file with a gauge.... depth and angle are easily obtained with practice!