3R Home and Barn Project

   / 3R Home and Barn Project #801  
Some of these boulders are just huge. We used the FEL grapples to pick these big ones up. I think they would crush the dump trailer. We will need more than these and more time to plant them where they need to go. But it takes a long time to chain, drag, reposition or grapple etc.

Why not just plant small ones & fertilize well? :rolleyes:
 
   / 3R Home and Barn Project
  • Thread Starter
#802  
Why not just plant small ones & fertilize well? :rolleyes:
LOL:D...that's what I told Loretta and she was going to throw one at me.
I'm still hoping to get more information of how to utilize the low pressure water storage tank. Thanks Dave for correcting me on the pressure, but is that still too low for sprinklers? Realize that I can't run everything off the well pump and bladder tank because I run out of pressure there too. How would I go about adding another pump (or booster) to pressurize the water tank line. Could I also add one to increase the pressure from the well pump to the house? Right now I have the bladder tank set to start at about 30psi and pump up to 65psi. The pressure is great at 65psi, but as it bleeds down through use before getting down to 30psi, it sucks. I guess I'm asking if there is a way to keep the pressurized line at 60 or 65psi?
Thanks,
 
   / 3R Home and Barn Project #803  
I guess I'm asking if there is a way to keep the pressurized line at 60 or 65psi?
Thanks,

If the components of your system can handle it what about uping the pump on-off pressures then adding a pressure regulator on the bladder tank outlet? You may not get up to your desired pressure because the pump on setting would need to be that high which is pretty large for a domestic system. You could however realize a constant pressure, maybe 45-50psi, without fluctuation.
 
   / 3R Home and Barn Project #805  
Rob:
My square D pressure switch on my well pump lets me adjust the Cut In pressure as well as the Cut-Out. I have mine set for about 45 - 65 psi and don't find too much problem. I don't know if the more frequent shorter pump cycles would be any different for your solar powered system. 30 -65 psi would be too low for me.
 
   / 3R Home and Barn Project #806  
LOL:D...that's what I told Loretta and she was going to throw one at me.
I'm still hoping to get more information of how to utilize the low pressure water storage tank. Thanks Dave for correcting me on the pressure, but is that still too low for sprinklers? Realize that I can't run everything off the well pump and bladder tank because I run out of pressure there too. How would I go about adding another pump (or booster) to pressurize the water tank line. Could I also add one to increase the pressure from the well pump to the house? Right now I have the bladder tank set to start at about 30psi and pump up to 65psi. The pressure is great at 65psi, but as it bleeds down through use before getting down to 30psi, it sucks. I guess I'm asking if there is a way to keep the pressurized line at 60 or 65psi?
Thanks,

Rob, you might be able to use something like this.
Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices And if that works you could get a better one when it dies.
 
   / 3R Home and Barn Project
  • Thread Starter
#807  
Thanks guys,
The first thing I did was up the on/off pressure up to 40psi on and 65psi off. That makes quite a difference already so I won't need a booster pump for that system. I am interested then, in getting the pressure regulator to keep the pressure fairly constant. Where do I get one of those, and what should I look out for?
The booster pump is a great idea for my non pressurized water system Brian. I have a "T" coming out near the garage and electric outlets there as well. I guess I just plumb it into the line, right? That will give me 40 to 50 psi max, and should be plenty for operating some sprinklers off it, right?
Does it run all the time or are their settings like the bladder tank?
 
   / 3R Home and Barn Project #808  
I believe that if you have water running, that the booster pump would also be running. Should not have much of a pressure variance. This is what I am going to have to do also when ever I get our house built. All of our water is gravity fed, and when you build on top of the hill, well there just isn't much pressure to be had. :rolleyes:
 
   / 3R Home and Barn Project #809  
Thanks guys,
The first thing I did was up the on/off pressure up to 40psi on and 65psi off. That makes quite a difference already so I won't need a booster pump for that system. I am interested then, in getting the pressure regulator to keep the pressure fairly constant. Where do I get one of those, and what should I look out for?
The booster pump is a great idea for my non pressurized water system Brian. I have a "T" coming out near the garage and electric outlets there as well. I guess I just plumb it into the line, right? That will give me 40 to 50 psi max, and should be plenty for operating some sprinklers off it, right?
Does it run all the time or are their settings like the bladder tank?

Rob,
For my house supply I used a Wilkins Model 600 pressure reducing valve with internal bypass. This is a quality bronze unit, installed in-line, that has a cleanable stainless steel screen. It is adjusted similar to an air pressure regulator, tightening or loosening a screw varies the spring force against a diaphragm. This model is available for all common pipe sizes from 1/2" to 2". I purchased it from a local pipe and irrigation supply company. About $50+/- in 2001.

I also installed a Wilkins bronze Reduced Pressure Backflow Preventer, mod 975XL, about $130 from the same supplier. The backflow preventer separates your irrigation system from your domestic to the extent that if you loose house pressure the irrigation system will not siphon back into your potable supply (and having you drink fertilizer, etc. Can you say This water tastes like crap?). This is not only an important health issue, it is code where I live and probably where you live as well. This unit is basically a high class adjustable/testable check valve.

I think a booster pump can be wired to run from your irrigation controller. When a timed circuit (station) comes on, the booster pump would turn on as well. When the irrigation cycle is over the pump would shut down. It is a feature you'll want to look for in the controller you purchase.

I'm not familiar with the design of booster pumps but I think they are the centrifugal impeller type. No bladder tank is used, they just run constantly. Sizing may be critical here so that you don't tax your batteries when just a relatively small drip station circuit is running. Maybe consider installing both a big and small booster pumps. The big one for heavy GPM stations like surface impact sprinklers and a smaller one to supply the drip stations.

When you get ready to look at irrigation controllers I have heard good things about the Hunter Pro C model from TBNers at a wiring question I posted here

Something we did this year that you may find useful while still designing landscaping is to plumb and wire several irrigation stations around the home site and have them go to an above grade hose connection (no hose bib, just a hose thread adapter, capped if not used to keep critters out). Like Loretta, my wife had been hauling the hoses and sprinklers around keeping things alive and growing the past few years. With this interim system we are able to put in a few drip lines and a few sprinklers to the lawn, set the timer and forget about watering regularly. I installed 12 valves total at 6 locations this summer and it has been a big time saver. The 6 locations are a hose length or two away from each other.

Another alternative to reduce the need for hand watering is to use the single station battery powered valves now available. Run from a 9v(?) battery they hook up to a hose bib in a remote location and have a programmable on-off timer. But these are rather spendy if you need several. About $40 a whack I think.
 
   / 3R Home and Barn Project #810  
Rob
Check the presure in your bladder tank it should be 2 lbs under your cut in presure
To check it you have to bleed all the water presure off the water side and use a tire guage to set it.

If you want more time between puump cycles add another presure tank or 2 closer to your use(in basment) would be best with a check valve in the line to pump to hold presure in house when it drops off in the line to house.

tommu
 

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