Thanks guys,
The first thing I did was up the on/off pressure up to 40psi on and 65psi off. That makes quite a difference already so I won't need a booster pump for that system. I am interested then, in getting the pressure regulator to keep the pressure fairly constant. Where do I get one of those, and what should I look out for?
The booster pump is a great idea for my non pressurized water system Brian. I have a "T" coming out near the garage and electric outlets there as well. I guess I just plumb it into the line, right? That will give me 40 to 50 psi max, and should be plenty for operating some sprinklers off it, right?
Does it run all the time or are their settings like the bladder tank?
Rob,
For my house supply I used a Wilkins Model 600 pressure reducing valve with internal bypass. This is a quality bronze unit, installed in-line, that has a cleanable stainless steel screen. It is adjusted similar to an air pressure regulator, tightening or loosening a screw varies the spring force against a diaphragm. This model is available for all common pipe sizes from 1/2" to 2". I purchased it from a local pipe and irrigation supply company. About $50+/- in 2001.
I also installed a Wilkins bronze Reduced Pressure Backflow Preventer, mod 975XL, about $130 from the same supplier. The backflow preventer separates your irrigation system from your domestic to the extent that if you loose house pressure the irrigation system will not siphon back into your potable supply (and having you drink fertilizer, etc. Can you say This water tastes like crap?). This is not only an important health issue, it is code where I live and probably where you live as well. This unit is basically a high class adjustable/testable check valve.
I think a booster pump can be wired to run from your irrigation controller. When a timed circuit (station) comes on, the booster pump would turn on as well. When the irrigation cycle is over the pump would shut down. It is a feature you'll want to look for in the controller you purchase.
I'm not familiar with the design of booster pumps but I think they are the centrifugal impeller type. No bladder tank is used, they just run constantly. Sizing may be critical here so that you don't tax your batteries when just a relatively small drip station circuit is running. Maybe consider installing both a big and small booster pumps. The big one for heavy GPM stations like surface impact sprinklers and a smaller one to supply the drip stations.
When you get ready to look at irrigation controllers I have heard good things about the Hunter Pro C model from TBNers at a wiring question I posted
here
Something we did this year that you may find useful while still designing landscaping is to plumb and wire several irrigation stations around the home site and have them go to an above grade hose connection (no hose bib, just a hose thread adapter, capped if not used to keep critters out). Like Loretta, my wife had been hauling the hoses and sprinklers around keeping things alive and growing the past few years. With this interim system we are able to put in a few drip lines and a few sprinklers to the lawn, set the timer and forget about watering regularly. I installed 12 valves total at 6 locations this summer and it has been a big time saver. The 6 locations are a hose length or two away from each other.
Another alternative to reduce the need for hand watering is to use the single station battery powered valves now available. Run from a 9v(?) battery they hook up to a hose bib in a remote location and have a programmable on-off timer. But these are rather spendy if you need several. About $40 a whack I think.