TC33d overheat problem

[Eric F.]

I've had this tractor for 4 years, it is an approx year 2000 model, 450 hours on it. It began to overheat a bit under load last year, I've now done three chemical coolant flushes, also replaced the thermostat. The problem has gotten to the point now where I cannot mow more than 10 minutes without it nearing the red. Under no-load conditions it does not overheat, which causes me to believe that the sensor is OK. so I am limiting the problem down to a clogged radiator, or water pump fins that may be eroded, not pumping.

I have cleared the air path of the radiator with a pressure washer, carefully so as to not bend the radiator fins, it is clear.

any speculation on what problem is most likely on this unit, water pump fins or radiator?

Thanks,
Eric

 

[JC-jetro]

I've had this tractor for 4 years, it is an approx year 2000 model, 450 hours on it. It began to overheat a bit under load last year, I've now done three chemical coolant flushes, also replaced the thermostat. The problem has gotten to the point now where I cannot mow more than 10 minutes without it nearing the red. Under no-load conditions it does not overheat, which causes me to believe that the sensor is OK. so I am limiting the problem down to a clogged radiator, or water pump fins that may be eroded, not pumping.

I have cleared the air path of the radiator with a pressure washer, carefully so as to not bend the radiator fins, it is clear.

any speculation on what problem is most likely on this unit, water pump fins or radiator?

Thanks,
Eric

Eric,

If you have radiator fan working and radiator fins not totally blocked then you should be good to go with the air side of heat transfer. The other side has to be water side of heat transfer and almost always comes to lack of flow caused by variety of different reasons. You changed t-stat so we can probably eliminate that. Almost always top hose to the radiator is discharge of water pump to the radiator bringing water from the block and lower radiator hose. I'll have radiator cap open and turn the tractor on and let it slowly warm up with the cap removed. After the t-stat is open you should expect the see flow looking thru the radiator cap. if no flow then either the pump not working or cavitating (highly unlikely), or there is a blockage in the block (calcification and rusting inside) so bad that might impede the flow, realizing you said, you flush the system. What I had happened to me in college was that on my Buick Skylark, the lower radiator hose had an internal spring to maintain the shape of the hose (i guess) and the spring rusted away partially, collapsed and all kind of calcification grew on it (same as an artificial reef ) to the point that almost totally blocked the lower radiator hose and squeezing the hose in the middle never revealed it to me as the ball of rock were very close to the block inlet. I change the hoses and I was good to go.

JC,

 

[BigE_]

Remove the oil pressure sender switch and put a pressure gauge on it. Your oil pressure should be around 40-50 psi at 2000 rpms. If not, you have problems with your oil system.

See http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/new-holland-owning-operating/109270-tc33d-oil-light-low-rpms.html

I had a similar problem.

-Steve

 

[jinman]

Eric, I would go to an auto parts place like autozone and get a cheap bulb-type temperature gage. I'd follow JC's suggestion and remove the radiator cap. Let the tractor warm up and even put it under load (in gear with parking brake set). Get the engine as hot as you can get it. While loading the engine at low rpm, if you can, get someone to look for air bubbles rising in the water. Bubbling would indicate a possible head gasket leak that is overheating the water. When you see water moving in the radiator, drop in the bulb end of the temperature gage you bought and see what temperature the water is. Water should start to move when the thermostat opens at 180 degrees F. Your cheap temperature gage should show 165-175 degrees.

After trying this, leave your radiator cap loose (not locked down) and operate the tractor until the regular gage starts to register hot. Stop the tractor and leave the engine running. Carefully (and I do mean carefully, using a rag) remove the loose radiator cap. DO NOT do this if the cap is tightened. You want there to be no surprises when you remove the cap. Now, drop in the temperature gage to see what temperature it says. If you are 180-190, all is normal. Check this against your instrument panel gage. If it is not similar, then you have a bad gage or bad sending unit.

I have had to replace my temperature gage on my tractor and so has one other TBN member. The gages are about $50. Both of our gages were reading low, but yours could be faulty and reading high. Has your tractor ever overflowed when you stop it? Does steam escape from the radiator? You could easily have a faulty gage if you don't see other evidence of overheating. Checking with a cheap bulb-type gage is a good way to do a comparison.

Good luck and welcome to TBN.

 

[JC-jetro]

just to add to what Jim said. Water boils @ 212 at sea level, higher elevation and it boils at lower temp in atmospheric condition. Putting a cap increase the pressure and keeps water boiling at higher temperature than 212 where it could flash to steam as soon as cap is removed, hence the danger Jim was alluding to. If the cap is not tight or spring not maintaining the right causes moisture loss to the point you still have water in the block but no water around the T-stat housing causing it to falsely register high temp as well.

Jc,

 

[ironpen]

My TC33d did a similar thing. I used my air pump and thoroughly blew everything out of the fins of the radiator. That helped, but still had the problem, although not as bad. My repair man suggested I change the radiator cap.....problem solved. A cheap fix if it works. Good luck. To me there is nothing worse than a tractor that won't crank or one that overheats.

 

[RickB]

Eric, I would go to an auto parts place like autozone and get a cheap bulb-type temperature gage. I'd follow JC's suggestion and remove the radiator cap. Let the tractor warm up and even put it under load (in gear with parking brake set). Get the engine as hot as you can get it. While loading the engine at low rpm, if you can, get someone to look for air bubbles rising in the water. Bubbling would indicate a possible head gasket leak that is overheating the water. When you see water moving in the radiator, drop in the bulb end of the temperature gage you bought and see what temperature the water is. Water should start to move when the thermostat opens at 180 degrees F. Your cheap temperature gage should show 165-175 degrees.

After trying this, leave your radiator cap loose (not locked down) and operate the tractor until the regular gage starts to register hot. Stop the tractor and leave the engine running. Carefully (and I do mean carefully, using a rag) remove the loose radiator cap. DO NOT do this if the cap is tightened. You want there to be no surprises when you remove the cap. Now, drop in the temperature gage to see what temperature it says. If you are 180-190, all is normal. Check this against your instrument panel gage. If it is not similar, then you have a bad gage or bad sending unit.

I have had to replace my temperature gage on my tractor and so has one other TBN member. The gages are about $50. Both of our gages were reading low, but yours could be faulty and reading high. Has your tractor ever overflowed when you stop it? Does steam escape from the radiator? You could easily have a faulty gage if you don't see other evidence of overheating. Checking with a cheap bulb-type gage is a good way to do a comparison.

Good luck and welcome to TBN.

Spend $50 on a non-contact infrared thermometer with a laser indicator. Do the test the same way, but safer. A few bucks more than a bulb style gauge that you won't ever use again; but you keep a neat tool that has many uses.

 

[jinman]

Spend $50 on a non-contact infrared thermometer with a laser indicator. Do the test the same way, but safer. A few bucks more than a bulb style gauge that you won't ever use again; but you keep a neat tool that has many uses.

RickB, that's a pretty darn good idea. I have one of those gages and I love it. I think I paid about $75 for mine, but it is the "cat's meow" for measuring temperatures and the safety factor is flawless. Well. . . it's flawless if you don't "do the test the same way. . . ." I wouldn't recommend opening the radiator and sticking the IR thermometer into the water. Just Joshin'. . . The beauty of the IR gage is that you point and shoot it anywhere you need to measure temperature without any exposure of your body. If you need to know how hot your hydraulic fluid is, you can point it at your pump or the reservoir. Anywhere you can put that laser dot, you can measure temperature. Recommended!

 

[JC-jetro]

RickB, that's a pretty darn good idea. I have one of those gages and I love it. I think I paid about $75 for mine, but it is the "cat's meow" for measuring temperatures and the safety factor is flawless. Well. . . it's flawless if you don't "do the test the same way. . . ." I wouldn't recommend opening the radiator and sticking the IR thermometer into the water. Just Joshin'. . . The beauty of the IR gage is that you point and shoot it anywhere you need to measure temperature without any exposure of your body. If you need to know how hot your hydraulic fluid is, you can point it at your pump or the reservoir. Anywhere you can put that laser dot, you can measure temperature. Recommended!

Yes Jim, it is a great device. I have used it for many years around steam and hot water boilers,pipes carrying all kind of fluids, boiler stacks and some HVAC work. It is a dandy device to have. Any non-contact device in safety related work is a great plus.

Just FYI that the red laser dot does nothing as far as reading the temperature, it only identifies where the lens of infra red device is focused at or general vicinity. Target area is never a dot but rather small area considering the lens focal length and distance from the device temp measurement is taken.


JC,

 

[jinman]

Just FYI that the red laser dot does nothing as far as reading the temperature, it only identifies where the lens of infra red device is focused at or general vicinity. Target area is never a dot but rather small area considering the lens focal length and distance from the device temp measurement is taken.


JC,

Exactly! The dot is just for aiming and a great help in knowing exactly where you are aiming. The farther from the surface, the larger the area measured. I try to get as close as possible with mine for the smallest area.