Snow Equipment Owning/Operating Moving Snow

[skidoo]

I have a curvy driveway on a slope. I did get chains, but found that when it is icy, even with them it can be difficult unless I went with very heavy spiked chains. Most of the time, the snow is just fine without chains. But, I have learned a method such that I don't use the chains any more. I just keep a few yards of pea gravel off to the side of the drive. Then, whenever it gets slippery enough, I just grab a scoop of the gravel and sprinkle it down the drive. Works great.

 

[PILOON]

I have a curvy driveway on a slope. I did get chains, but found that when it is icy, even with them it can be difficult unless I went with very heavy spiked chains. Most of the time, the snow is just fine without chains. But, I have learned a method such that I don't use the chains any more. I just keep a few yards of pea gravel off to the side of the drive. Then, whenever it gets slippery enough, I just grab a scoop of the gravel and sprinkle it down the drive. Works great.

I also have hilly curvy drive.

What I have been using for the last few years is a relativly cheap grass seed broadcaster that I fill with pea gravel.

Found that a round tub type with cone shaped bottom was best.
Also seed spreaders generally have only one drive wheel so I modified it so both wheels drive.
As you know, you do not need to totally coat the icy surface to get traction, but rather a 'salt and pepper' approach i.e. a light scattering of grit is all that is needed.

I did upgrade last winter as I found (yard sale) a professional seed broadcaster that had a metal differential with pneumatic tires. (again I locked the differential)

Generally with this rig I only need about 2 bags of grit as I spread it quite lightly.
I always get my grit from a hardware store as it is bagged and dry plus I keep a cover over the broadcaster. Adding salt would be a no-no as it would only clump and probably corrode everything in a short while. Dry grit is the answer.

Basically I got the idea from tractor mounted broadcasters and just had to try it.

 

[sanitaire]

I run a 27 old gravley that has the 18hp kohlerds engine under the seat, under the hood is the battery, gas tank and hydrawlicks, too lift the blower head. I bought some used tire chain scraps that are for roadgraders. they have a standard link with a v welded in the link. very agressive and long lasting. since my machine is 27 years old, it just has 2 wheel drive, so chains and wheel weights make a difference. plus my shrek size body also helps for traction...

 

[jbrumberg]

sanitaire:

Welcome to TBN ! Nothing wrong with having a little personal ballast . Jay

 

[hondo964]

irvingj,

thanks for the reply and photo. I won't have a backhoe - but my driveway is flat as a pancake with no curves. My only issue will be accumulated snow that may have melted and re-frozen.

Since chains aren't cheap, I'll try it with my bucket and blade (and no chains) first!

 

[Window Geek]

Sanitaire, welcome to TBN!

Yup. I've got a sloping driveway toward the road. Haven't needed chains yet. However, while using my front blade, I've gotten a bit slowed down in the snowbank at the end of the driveway. No problem. Hit the diff lock and away I go! I run R4 tires and wish I could afford a snow blower. Pushing old frozen snowbanks just doesn't work. Cue the FEL.

 

[dts1449]

I always enjoy reading the posts on TBN, the information is great and like one fella said, this is pretty close to seat time without the saddle sores... Just to add to the question, has anyone had any experience with chains on the front tires of a 4WD tractor? Particularly a sub-compact. I just purchased a SC2400 with a blower and wondered if front chains were worth the time? The drive way only has a slight incline but it"s about 800 feet long. I've been up here 30+ years and seen it pretty woolly at times but until now I've either plowed it myself, (4WD truck) contracted it, or used a walk behind blower. I am getting to the age where if it were too crappy out I could roll over and wait for the sun, but that won't help anyone else get in or out...lol!! Any thoughts?

 

[Egon]

I did use chains on all four wheels of my Kubota B7100 [16 HP] The rear ones alone made a big difference. Adding chains to the front helped even more.

They helped in snow, on ice and in mud.

I do not know if it is advisable to put chains on the front.

 

[jbrumberg]

I agree with Egon on front chains on hard dry surfaces because of the need for some differential "slippage" with the front differential while in "4WD". I believe one would be "ok" on any surface with some "slip" like mud, snow, ice, etc. Jay

 

[LBrown59]

I always enjoy reading the posts on TBN, the information is great and like one fella said, this is pretty close to seat time without the saddle sores... Just to add to the question, has anyone had any experience with chains on the front tires of a 4WD tractor? Particularly a sub-compact. I just purchased a SC2400 with a blower and wondered if front chains were worth the time? The drive way only has a slight incline but it"s about 800 feet long. I've been up here 30+ years and seen it pretty woolly at times but until now I've either plowed it myself, (4WD truck) contracted it, or used a walk behind blower. I am getting to the age where if it were too crappy out I could roll over and wait for the sun, but that won't help anyone else get in or out...lol!! Any thoughts?

Stay with it says the heat.