Posthole Digger PHD Operation Suggestions

[EddieWalker]

Let see.... The PTO pump was needed 22GPM 2 stage $250
Hyd motor added $300
The Hyd valve $120
The Hyd hose & fitting $120

Expensive, but the sytem also all works for the wood spliter

That actually sounds pretty inexpensive!!! I have never even thought about putting a hydraulic motor onto my post hole digger until now.

Was the motor a direct bolt on? or did you have to come up with some sort of adapter?

Where did you get the motor?

Thanks,
Eddie

 

[KHNewman]

I didn't realize the BX didn't have a clutch pedal. The B7610 has a clutch you can depress to shift between high and low gear as well as engage the PTO. My PTO lever is also on the left and the 3PH control on the right but I can use the clutch to control the spin of the PTO and stay turned to the right to contol the 3PH. The clutch essentially disengage the entire HST.

How do you engage the PTO on the BX? Do you have to put it in neutral first? I thought the BX had an HST so it would operate on a similar premise to the B. I think you might need a longer lever then becasue I can't imagine how I could control the bite without the ability to qucikly control the spin of the auger. If I was just using the 3PH contol and left the auger spinning all the time I would constantly stick the auger.

 

[thavil]

How do you engage the PTO on the BX? Do you have to put it in neutral first? I thought the BX had an HST so it would operate on a similar premise to the B. I think you might need a longer lever then becasue I can't imagine how I could control the bite without the ability to qucikly control the spin of the auger. If I was just using the 3PH contol and left the auger spinning all the time I would constantly stick the auger.

KHNewman - Moving the PTO Control lever downwards and to the left to lock it is all there is to engaging the PTO on a BX. I do not have to put it in neutral first, I usually forget and leave the gear in low range but doesn't seem to matter. With the PTO Control lever being on the left and fairly low to my seat position, this does cause me many issues with controlling the spin of the auger. What I do to start the hole is to place the auger barely on the ground in the correct position first. With the RPM just above idle, I then turn my body and move the PTO Control lever to engage the spin. I turn back around and then move the 3ph control lever to start the dig. If I realize I am getting too much of a bite (it's too late to attempt to use the 3ph control lever to raise the auger) I have to turn to the left again and reach for the PTO Control lever to stop the spin.

Now I wish that the BX series had a clutch, I see a great value in how you engage the PTO versus what I have to do. Thanks again for you input.

 

[bird1968]

That actually sounds pretty inexpensive!!! I have never even thought about putting a hydraulic motor onto my post hole digger until now.
Was the motor a direct bolt on? or did you have to come up with some sort of adapter?
Where did you get the motor?
Thanks,
Eddie

Always good to see you here on TBN Eddie

I'm amaze you've never got this setup done yet...since you've almost build your own complete tractor always amaze with the quality of your work.

The motor is a high torque from Eaton/ Char-Lynn with a 1 1/4" shaft. Princess Auto sells the gear box & motor.

The setup went together very well, the gear box had the same size shaft. Slip in a bushing & used the top part of our Ripper... & Voila....

Richard

 

[Sniggle]

I am about 50 holes into a 130 hole project, and I am getting better at using the PHD, but I still get stuck on most holes. The soil in my area is heavy red clay, and the small 6 inch auger I am using for most holes just grabs, and the 3-point hitch lacks the umpf to pull it out.

I find that I can dislodge the auger by rocking the tractor, as long as I don't let it get too deep.

If you have heavy clay soil, you will get it stuck on almost every holes with your tractor due to the low 3-point hitch lift power (as I do).....just learn to not get it too stuck.

 

[thavil]

Just wanted to report that after reading all of the posts and taking in all of the advice, I had a fairly decent day yesterday digging my holes. I finally realize what I was doing wrong. I was doing two things wrong using this larger 12" auger versus the easier to use 9" auger.

1. As mentioned, I was holding down on the PTO control lever too long and by the time the auger caught up to my positioning, it dug itself in too deep for me to recover.

2. When the auger took a good bite, before, I was stopping the PTO and attempting to pull the auger out of the hole to clean the flights. There was no way my small BX24 could pull the auger out while still trying to dig in. Now, when I hear the auger biting in, I leave it alone and let it dig as far as I allowed it to with the lever. It finally bottoms out at the position I allowed it and when I can hear the difference in the engine, I then stop the PTO and pull the auger right up. Much easier!!

Thanks to everyone that responded, now it's time to go back out and dig more holes and finish this poroject.

 

[sandman2234]

My first use of a post hole digger was with my little Ford 1100. I got the auger stuck, and it would pick up the front of the tractor as it buried itself. I would push in the clutch to get it down, only to bang the front end on the ground (very hard!) So I started trying to "catch" it before it hit the ground, by letting the clutch out to soften the blow. A twisted shaft in the pto lift system (about $500) was the result. Taught me a lesson about using an implement I had never used, before reading at least a little up on it. Now when I get something new(to me), the first thing do is read all the posts I can find about that implement, here on TBN
David from jax

 

[thavil]

Just wanted to report back that I finally finished the fence line that I was working on using the Leinbach post hole digger. Thanks to everyone that responded with good advice. My last few holes were dug quickly, once I really got the hang of it. Each hole was different, depending on rocks, roots and type of soil. My soil seemed to change about every 3rd hole. Attached are a few pictures of the project (pardon the quality, all I had was my phone to take the pictures with).

 

[wedge40]

Looks good. One more project under your belt.

Wedge

 

[pintodeluxe]

I have a Rankin PHD 300 on my Bx2230. I have dug hundreds of holes in rocky, clay layden, and limestone hardpan with great success. My 9" bit has a center tip, that occasionally won't bite in if it's sitting on a rock at first. A few strikes with a digging bar moves the rock, and digging continues. I have only gotten the auger stuck once - at 30" depth on two converging tree roots. The only reason it got stuck is that the tractor died.

Take home message: Keep the PTO spinning until the bit is free and clear of the soil. Never stop the PTO while the bit is buried!

As a side note, I once met a guy whose friend lost his leg after an auger accident. He apparently was kicking the loose dirt away from the bit while it was spinning. The bit instantly sucked his leg down the whole, and it was later lost to amputation. Remember to have the safety talk with all your helpers before starting work. Mine goes like this "If the tractor is running, do not touch it. Do not stand behing the tractor, I am like a little orange crawdad that likes to scoot backwards. Kids are inside with another adult, dogs are inside or on a leash."
Best regards, Good Luck and Be Safe