Weight is bad

[MtnViewRanch]

We know that the CNH information is really targeted towards the AG tractors. So with that said, how many of us actually alter the weight on our utility tractors to match what task that we will be doing at a certain time? Do the guys that have cast iron weights actually add or remove them depending on what they will be doing that day and then change them again later that or the next day?

I have a bigger tractor than most here, but I for one do not. We have been told to use cast in place of fluid. What if you can't get enough cast iron on. I have twice the wheel weights on than what is recommended. No way was that enough weight, so I filled all 4 of my tires as recommended in my owners manual. Oh what a difference. Yes I am sure that for some of the things that I do that weight is over kill, but for sure when I am disking or doing other heavy dirt work, it is just right. As has been said before, there are charts to show you what the tire should look like and how much slippage you should have and my tractor meets that criteria at certain times. There is no way for me that it is ever practical to alter the weight to match a lighter duty function and then add the weight back on for heavy duty tasks. The tasks change to frequently, that is why I got a utility tractor.

 

[N80]

bouncing a light front? Geo/bro whaaatt? oh.. wait I seen it on videos from LA usually w/chevies..

If you've never bounced the front of your tractor you must not have ever had the loader off, or never had anything heavy on the rear, or use your tractor only on pavement.

With my mower on the back (lifted) and no loader on or weights up front, even a slight indiscretion with the clutch (who me? never!) and the fronts will come off the ground.

 

[john_bud]

Actually, doing the math, it gets confusing. The OP (Messicks) posted that 100-130 pounds per PTO hp is in the correct range for the tractor to weigh. Many Kubotas are in that range already - no fluid - no iron weights - no implements - no FEL - no BH.


My kubota L3410 hst is 2880 pounds and 28.5 hp out the PTO. So the ideal weight is then 2850 pounds to 3705 pounds. With the FEL on it, it weighs about 1000 more than empty or about 3850 pounds - right over the max. But with no rear weight or tire fill, it will pick the back tires off the ground easy. So, tires are filled with CaCl2 about 800# making it about 4600-4700#. But it still does not dig well and still occasionally lifts the rears, so a 950# box blade is often used. Bringing the weight up to about 5500-5600#. Add 200# for the nut holding the wheel and it's about 57-5800#. Divide that by the 28.5 pto hp and you get 200 pounds per pto hp.

So, according to the presentation data, the tractor should be "ideal" as delivered for field work. But for FEL work, it was way light. How many of us really feel the tractor was ideal with no weight added?

jb

 

[GeneD14]

Here is a picture that I saw a while back that depicts a properly ballasted tractor

 

[radman1]

Here is a picture that I saw a while back that depicts a properly ballasted tractor

Love that picture. Probably has fluid in the front and rear tires with the weights.

 

[N80]

I think its a safe bet that its set up for pulling competition. Those guys really pile the weight on!

 

[bake321]

For my "Hills of Kentucky" my Kubota 9540 has cast wheels and filled tires. It really reduces the pucker factor and puts the weight were it is needed.

Bake

 

[Soundguy]

It takes a wide range of uses for filled tires to be a problem. If you don't do lawns I can hardly think of a reason not to load them. An otherwise unweighted tractor is almost always going to benefit from fluid in the rears. So mine are filled and ALWAYS will be. If I get wheel weights, that will be in addition to fluid, if I need them. Rolling resistance from fluid will never be an issue for my weekend warrior tractor.

IMHO.. loaded tires are not a deahnel to a lwan.. i run my loaded tire tractors over my lawn and I don't have dead streaks in it yet...

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

I found it easier to just ballast my tractor for the correct weight for it's application.. then use another tractor differently ballasted for different applications..

soundguy

We know that the CNH information is really targeted towards the AG tractors. So with that said, how many of us actually alter the weight on our utility tractors to match what task that we will be doing at a certain time? Do the guys that have cast iron weights actually add or remove them depending on what they will be doing that day and then change them again later that or the next day?

I have a bigger tractor than most here, but I for one do not. We have been told to use cast in place of fluid. What if you can't get enough cast iron on. I have twice the wheel weights on than what is recommended. No way was that enough weight, so I filled all 4 of my tires as recommended in my owners manual. Oh what a difference. Yes I am sure that for some of the things that I do that weight is over kill, but for sure when I am disking or doing other heavy dirt work, it is just right. As has been said before, there are charts to show you what the tire should look like and how much slippage you should have and my tractor meets that criteria at certain times. There is no way for me that it is ever practical to alter the weight to match a lighter duty function and then add the weight back on for heavy duty tasks. The tasks change to frequently, that is why I got a utility tractor.

 

[john_bud]

I found it easier to just ballast my tractor for the correct weight for it's application.. then use another tractor differently ballasted for different applications..

soundguy

Aren't you the guy with more tractors than acres?

It's tougher for us guys that have more acres than tractors, by a factor of 100-1!

It must be nice to be the other way around on that ratio!