Oil & Fuel A quick 5 gallon fuel container rant

[LBrown59]

I'll get some pictures this weekend.

Thanks that would be nice.

 

[3238dpw]

Amazon.com: Han-D-Pump: Sports & Outdoors
I use one of these for my 5 gallon can. It works great when it works. It is really pretty much junk as I have to constantly take it apart and put the plunger back into the groove on the shaft. When it comes off it will not pump fuel.

Does anyone know of a more comercial version?

 

[N80]

Okay, back to venting a ventless can. Let's say I plan to use a snap-in tubeless tire valve stem. Can you get the valve core out of a basic one? If so, how? Or, am I going to need the air/fluid type stems like on tractor tires?

 

[patrick_g]

Okay, back to venting a ventless can. Let's say I plan to use a snap-in tubeless tire valve stem. Can you get the valve core out of a basic one? If so, how? Or, am I going to need the air/fluid type stems like on tractor tires?

George, your kidding, right?

Take a valve stem cap, one with the little slot in the end and use the slot for a wrench to unscrew the valve core. Alternatively, if you have no valve caps with slots, take your pop-in tire valves to a tire shop and use one of theirs to unscrew the core.

I hope I understood your question......

Pat

 

[N80]

George, your kidding, right?

Sorry, not kidding. I've never removed or replaced a tubeless valve core except the air/fluid kind. Never knew you could or why you would. I'm just curious though, why would you ever remove a valve core? The whole valve stem and core cost almost nothing and are really easy to replace. I've done that before. Pop the whole thing out, pop a whole new one in. Never had the valve core fail in a tubed tire. But I could see where it would be good to be able to do it rather than buying a whole new tube if the core failed.

Take a valve stem cap, one with the little slot in the end and use the slot for a wrench to unscrew the valve core. Alternatively, if you have no valve caps with slots, take your pop-in tire valves to a tire shop and use one of theirs to unscrew the core.

Thanks, that's what I needed to know. I now see that you can buy a core removal tool for a buck or two.

I hope I understood your question......

Pat

You did and that was the answer I needed. Thanks.

 

[patrick_g]

Sorry, not kidding. I've never removed or replaced a tubeless valve core except the air/fluid kind. Never knew you could or why you would. I'm just curious though, why would you ever remove a valve core? The whole valve stem and core cost almost nothing and are really easy to replace. I've done that before. Pop the whole thing out, pop a whole new one in. Never had the valve core fail in a tubed tire. But I could see where it would be good to be able to do it rather than buying a whole new tube if the core failed.



Thanks, that's what I needed to know. I now see that you can buy a core removal tool for a buck or two.



You did and that was the answer I needed. Thanks.

George, If you remove a tire or the bead breaks down (comes unsealed from the rim as on a hand truck with a load on it but low tire pressure) removing the valve core will allow a much faster inflation rate in your attempt to get the tire to seal on the rim again. Valve cores are quite restrictive to flow and are typically removed at tire shops to save time when a worker is inflating a tire to check for leaks, reseal the bead etc. They will often inflate the tire, sans core, and put a valve cap on, find a leak using a water tank or hose or spray bottle of soap solution then pull the cap and get a fast deflation. By the end of the day the time saved inflating and deflating tires sans core will add up significantly.

I too have had very few valve core failures but... it only takes one to really ruin your day. When you air a tire it is always good to test for a leak through the core before you replace the cap. Excuse the indelicacy, please... most folks use a little spit for this.

Having a tool is nice but where will it be when you need it? Using valve caps with the tool on the end ensures you have a tool readily at hand any time it might be required and they are really cheap.

Now you know why so many valve caps had the two little projections. It wasn't just a fashion statement or a vestigial configuration left over from earlier times.

Pat

 

[LBrown59]

George, If you remove a tire or the bead breaks down (comes unsealed from the rim as on a hand truck with a load on it but low tire pressure) removing the valve core will allow a much faster inflation rate in your attempt to get the tire to seal on the rim again. Valve cores are quite restrictive to flow and are typically removed at tire shops to save time when a worker is inflating a tire to check for leaks, reseal the bead etc. They will often inflate the tire, sans core, and put a valve cap on, find a leak using a water tank or hose or spray bottle of soap solution then pull the cap and get a fast deflation. By the end of the day the time saved inflating and deflating tires sans core will add up significantly.

I too have had very few valve core failures but... it only takes one to really ruin your day. When you air a tire it is always good to test for a leak through the core before you replace the cap. Excuse the indelicacy, please... most folks use a little spit for this.

Having a tool is nice but where will it be when you need it? Using valve caps with the tool on the end ensures you have a tool readily at hand any time it might be required and they are really cheap.

Now you know why so many valve caps had the two little projections. It wasn't just a fashion statement or a vestigial configuration left over from earlier times.

Pat

I make sure I have at least one of these on each of my Pick ups , tractors and my yard and utility trailers.

 

[N80]

Thanks Patrick.

I can see where having a cap with a valve extraction slot makes sense; nothing to lose and a lot to gain.

However, in 30 years of driving (and more offroad than most), a good many years of mountain biking, and 3 years of tractoring, I've never had a valve core failure. I torn some stems off, but that wasn't a core failure. And in all those years of driving (cars and trucks), I've had a total of two flats! Both ripped out sidewalls offroad.

Patrick, I can see your point about getting a bead to seat, that makes sense and I've had trouble with my tractor fronts getting the bead to seat after driving it off the tire off the rim. End up having to use straps. So I guess I may get me a few of those caps myself.

 

[patrick_g]

Yeah, George, cheap insurance. What is the down side? maybe $1 invested with no return. BUT if you ever use one it will be worth way more.

Removing the core when trying to seat a bead can help since it lets air in so much faster.

Pat

 

[GinNB]

I've heard the "remove the core to seat the bead easier" trick before, but my air chucks won't let air into the stem without the core in there to depress the matching "core" in the air chuck. Must be a special chuck on some tire machines with no chuck core that only work on the pedal-operated air hoses, if you know what I mean.