Dump Trailer

[radman1]

When loading any size dump trailer, tell them to load the weight over the trailer axles. This will keep the excess weight off the tongue. They almost always will load in the center of the trailer which creates too much tongue weight. If loaded in the center, there will still be more than enough tongue wt. Dump trailers can easily hold more than they will safely carry, so put the weight on the trailer and not on your bumper.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Here we are back to the nothing less than a 3/4 will do
mentatality.


1* If this is so why do I keep hearing the old tired It's gota be at least a 3/4?
2*Then right in the same breath urging a/34 over a 1/2!

You make me want to bang my head. When we were talking about towing your 2500# little BX on a 1,200# trailer a half ton or even smaller will do. These dump trailers weigh 3,500-4,500# empty then put 3-5 tons in it and you are over 1/2 tons limits.


Two completely different things.

Chris

 

[radman1]

For you guys who don't have a dump trailer but instead have a tilt (manual or electric), the tilt trailer can be sort of a dump trailer. This summer, I had to move some dirt at my sister's house. I had to haul my CUT and equipment on my 24' electric tilt trailer. I have 10" wooden sides on my trailer which has stake pockets. I loaded the trailer with the loader, then my nephew drove my loaded truck and I drove my tractor to the dump site. Tilted up the trailer, drove the CUT on the rear and scooped off the dirt. Very easy and relatively quick. I hauled about 25 yards this way. I have a 14', 14000 lb dump trailer, and the 24', 14000 tilt trailer could easily hold a much as my dump trailer.

 

[texasjohn]

Daryl, I recently went thru your decision process.

Here's what I did.
Bought a used PJ 20' 20K gooseneck dump trailer, dual axle, dual wheels each axle, (8000 lbs empty) because I have free dirt/road material immediately adjacent to my place on neighbor's property. Dump is hydraulic pump driven by HUMONGOUS 12V battery. Battery will handle 4 dumps before needing recharge.

My F350 gasser, small v8 manual transmission will not pull it around on the ranch loaded, much less on the road. Insufficient traction, burns clutch, wheels spin. I mean, it will NOT pull the load.

Studied new vehicles, Toyota Tundra has awesome pulling power, was considering it. Then found a used Ford 350 6.7L diesel dually crew cab on Craig's list just a couple of miles away which was in superb shape. Bought it for 1/5 cost of new Toyota.

Here's what I've learned:

Used is WAY cheaper.

Gooseneck is the only way to go for such heavy loads. Just trust me.

Trailer brakes and brake controller is mandatory.

The trailer is larger/longer than I need to just haul dirt... but it'll haul my tractor, other stuff too, so length is good for me.

First trip to a pit to get material, I got two scoops of their bucket = 18000 lbs... yep.. 9 tons

Don't lecture me about being overweight... it was a learning experience.

The dump trailer hydraulics will lift whatever the trailer is qualified for, in my case, 20000 lbs.

I loaded a 60% bigger mound of dirt into my trailer from the neighbor... lift would barely, barely lift the bed to dump, almost burned out the pump that time, had to wait for it to cool down several times.

Lesson...what looks like a tiny amount of dirt in the trailer bed and on the ground is amazingly heavy... extremely easy to get overloaded. I mean extremely easy.

Getting the largest weight capacity trailer is key if you are going to be doing much hauling at all..but high capacity does not dictate a big trailer.

The dually pickup wheels, IMHO, are required for hauling such a load, as is a 1 ton pickup (issues with springs, etc.)

I WISH I HAD FOUND A 4X4 DUALLY. The extra traction and speed control would make an ideal rig for my needs. As it is, when in the pasture which is rutted, bumpy, shallow inclines and dips, I find myself wishing for 4 wheel drive ... but I'm getting along by babying the clutch. Backing is worse than forward in the pasture. Net... hauling at road speed is only part of the discussion... being able to deliver the immense load exactly where you need it to the pature is equally key. If your delivery point is now and ever will be flat stable ground, not slick, then perhaps you can put less signifigance on slow speed traction with dirt conditions.

If you have never driven a diesel with a truly heavy load under pasture conditions, there is no way you can truly appreciate the wonderful low RPM lugging capability it provides. Maybe a gas engine if a dually 4wd would work also, never had one so I am not an authority.

So, do the math for your situation... trailer purchase, pickup purchase, brake controller, outfit pickup to charge trailer while driving (GOTTA use 00 wire IMHO, which is truly costly), trailer ramps, great battery charger for overnight charging divided by number of loaded trips, and factor in what other uses trailer and pickup have for you....

 

[QRTRHRS]

texasjohn,

PJ makes a nice dually dump. I had looked at a 20 footer a few years ago but did not have the bucks for the sweet 7500 price at the PA Farm Show. I picked up a used Br-Mar 16' last spring. It does not have the ramps like the PJ did that I looked at and it would take some doing to add them.

When I first looked at the trailer, I was hesitant at the 16 foot length but like you, I found out how heavy it can get with bulk material. Having a good amount of road time with tri-axles and dump trailers years ago, I should have known better.

Does yours have the tailgate or swing doors? Mine has swing doors. One of these days, I am going to modify them into a gate. The swing doors are a pain.

At sixteen feet, my lift will easily pick up a full load of topsoil or fill that my dually Dodge has trouble moving. Another area of concern when off of the pavement is how easily a loaded trailer will push a truck around when you get on some hilly terrain.

Now is not the time but my plan is to pick up an FL something baby Freightliner sometime to set up as a gooseneck hauler. Easy to work on with the tilt hood and not that expensive for farm plates and insurance.

If I could only have one trailer and my need to move equipment was only occasional, I would go with a dump if at all possible. Having shoveled off many a load, the first time I dumped that trailer with a hand held switch, I had a grin from ear to ear.

 

[Diamondpilot]

The dump trailer I use is a Bi-Mar 16' I believe. I know its a 14,000# trailer but it has a dual gate that can swing open by breaking in the middle or open like a dump truck tail gate and has chains to adjust the amount it opens. It also has pull out ramps and 4 tie down rings in it.

The trailer is not mine but belongs to a good friend. I have used it many times to haul 5 tons at a time and it works good.

Chris

 

[jgrreed]

Here we are back to the nothing less than a 3/4 will do
mentatality.

You're all grown ups, and you're all welcome to do whatever you'd like.

I've pulled 8 to 10 thousand pounds of horses and trailer with a 'properly equipped' F150 and it sucked. I was pushed all over the road. It wasn't safe at all. I won't be doing it again. If you think that it's OK to do so, please let me know what highway you'll be doing it on, and when, and I'll stay clear.

When someone new asks for advice, I think we should guide them towards what's safe, not what you can get away with.

-J.

 

[Daryl]

I guess I may need to rethink my plans.

 

[Mike Costello]

I am tired of paying for dump trucks to haul gravel for my driveway. have been looking at dump trailers. I have a 1500 chevy truck 4x4, Reg cab. Can I pull a 10x6 trailer with gravel. I am going to rent one first . The guy says I can haul 3 ton on trailer. Dont have hook up for electric brakes on truck. Guys says if I am careful I wont need them. Does this sound right.
Thanks

The guy at the yard needs his head examined! No trailer brakes=no control. I watched this happen: I was at a intersection (4 way stop) when a guy approached to my right hauling a 1 yard concrete trailer that was FULL. He was towing that load with a mini pickup. He hit the brakes--and the load proceeded to push him right through the intersection.
As he passed in front of me I could see his eyballs popping out of his head & his partner looked like he was ready to bail. I know those two dudes brown-stained their pants, plus concrete slopped out everywhere covering the back end of the mini truck!

 

[Daryl]

The truck had towing package. 2003 model. If I add brake controler will it work/be safe?

 

[jgrreed]

The truck had towing package. 2003 model. If I add brake controler will it work/be safe?

Only for a relatively small amount of 'useful load'.

That can be determined my knowing the max towing capacity of the truck, the max tongue weight of the truck and hitch, the empty weight of the trailer, and the max load of the trailer.

A rear pull trailer passes about 5% of it's weight off to the truck, so the useful load of the trailer is it's combined axle capacity, plus 5%, minus it's empty weight.

The truck companies can be crafty when it comes to 'towing capacity' They sometimes say 10000lbs, but that might not be at the bumper, that may be over the rear axle like a gooseneck would provide.

Like I said above, I've pulled 8-10k lbs on the tail with a 1/2 ton with trailer brakes, and it sucked. I don't know what weight would feel safe. I did pull a small single axle (2900lb axle) utility trailer without brakes with 2 round bales on it a few times using my Tacoma (~ 2500lbs, trailer included) and had no problems at all. It didn't feel dangerous.

-Jer.

 

[Mike Costello]

The truck had towing package. 2003 model. If I add brake controler will it work/be safe?

If you add a brake controller(assuming the trailer has brakes) you will now be using your truck brakes AND the trailer brakes as a unit. You will still have to stay within the load capacities of your truck. The worst that could happen is that you may have to make more trips.....but thats a small price to pay for being safe.
Having been in the towing & emergency response business(5 trucks), I can most certainly state "It's the other guy who will mess you up every time".

 

[jpm1]

I am tired of paying for dump trucks to haul gravel for my driveway. have been looking at dump trailers. I have a 1500 chevy truck 4x4, Reg cab. Can I pull a 10x6 trailer with gravel. I am going to rent one first . The guy says I can haul 3 ton on trailer. Dont have hook up for electric brakes on truck. Guys says if I am careful I wont need them. Does this sound right.
Thanks

In reguards to your problem, I understand completely but,my dad says if you can't do it safely, leave it to the guys who do it for a living. Law suits aren't cheap and your reputation is at stake also. I am a truck mounted crane opereator and I haul material to job sites every day. My company wants me run heavy (way past my legal weight) I refuse! I, being the driver are 100% responsible, its not worth it!
I have a dump trailer which I haul logs, stone and what not with, but my littly toyota truck can't do it. my solution , use a tractor and have a responsible person follow you in your vechile with flashing lights ect on. I've been given the thumbs-up from law enforcement as they pass me, I get the job done, save some money, and have some fun with the tractor in the process. Remember sheet metal is replaceable, we are not! Stay safe.

 

[thendricks]

You definitly must have trailer brakes for 6000 + lbs. Im sure i will get flamed for this but:

I dont have some of the same feelings as some of the other posters here about half ton pickups. They are not the same as they were even going back to 2003 for fords. I have a 7000 lb tandem car hauler and put two yards of crusher run (driveway gravel) on the trailer right after a rain so it was wet (it was a two yard bucket and was heaping also). From what i can tell this put my total weight for the trailer around 8600 lbs or more(my trailer is 2000 lbs). I have a 2006 F-150 ext cab 4x4 5.4 V8 rated to tow 8000+ lbs with a payload of 1600+ lbs. I turned the prodigy up to 7.5 volts and was on my way. I drove using some main roads and some side streets. The truck felt loaded but i had NO issues stopping/manuvering. For the once a week/month in the summer that i need materials, i dont think there would be any issues. My friends consider me a saftey freak and not one to push the limits. It never felt like i was close to pushing the limits. I would have never done that with my 2003 F150 (it also has 150k on the clock).

All that being said, if you truly are going to unload enough materials that you need to buy a dump, you are probably going to need a one ton.

Somewhat off topic, but i think IN is alot different than other states in regards to towing. As near as i can tell, you are not going to get ticketed unless they see something totally crazy. diamond pilot may have more experience with that since he sells boat trailers.

 

[dodge man]

I've come to following conclusion in regards to buying one. If I want one for various tasks, I should go ahead and buy one and I would be O.K. towing it with my 1/2 ton if I have brakes on the trailer and I'm carefull not overloading it and my truck. If I buy one to move a lot of dirt or gravel, I'm going to be really disapointed.

 

[Diamondpilot]

You, are right about Indiana being very easy going. I have never been pulled over in Indiana and I tow a trailer 3-4 times a week 7 months out of the year since 1996. That being said it will happen some day. Just keep a low profile and be safe and you will have no problems.

Just like the last guy stated the trucks have really improved in the last 4-5 years. We have a 2007 F-150 and its hands down twice the truck the last 1998 F-150 I had.

Chris

 

[jeffster]

I certainly don't want to fan the flames on the 1/2 ton versus 3/4+ trucks, nor on how much you SHOULD tow, but before anyone makes a decision, the very first question you should ask yourself is can you afford not to make a smart decision? The fact remains that we are an extremely litigious society and people in general will not hesitate a second to sue you for everything if you screw up and cause an accident. Playing dumb regarding the legality of your load isn't going to cut it. If you are overweight, have an inadequate towing vehicle, aren't equipped correctly, etc., you are going to pay for it. I'll stop lecturing now, but I would hate to see one of you guys lose everything due to something that could have easily been prevented. Even worse, I would hate to see someone get hurt because of it. Be safe out there everyone.

 

[thendricks]

I'll stop lecturing now, but I would hate to see one of you guys lose everything due to something that could have easily been prevented. Even worse, I would hate to see someone get hurt because of it. Be safe out there everyone.

We will agree to disagree on this topic. Whether ford (or my plates) says im "safe" or not has little to do with the actual situation.

Example:
Im driving with the maximum "safe" load that ford recomends (or my plates) in a blizzard running the maximum speed limit typing away on my cell heading down a 6% grade. I am legal, but am i really safe?? Of course not, and its silly to think otherwise. People put wayyyy to much stock in these numbers and too little in common sense.

Edit:
You are definitly correct about the sue happy people. Thats not the case in IN. We are quite a bit different than most of our neighbors. Think texas almost.

 

[thendricks]

You, are right about Indiana being very easy going. I have never been pulled over in Indiana and I tow a trailer 3-4 times a week 7 months out of the year since 1996. That being said it will happen some day. Just keep a low profile and be safe and you will have no problems.

Just like the last guy stated the trucks have really improved in the last 4-5 years. We have a 2007 F-150 and its hands down twice the truck the last 1998 F-150 I had.

Chris

I tow on probably one of the most heavily patrolled roads, 37 south of Indy. You have prolly been down to monroe and know what im talking about. So i definitly keep a low profile. They dont even look my way pulling my tractor as it looks small. Just dont go too fast, right?

 

[RollTideRam]

If you get the brake controller, I think you would do okay with a 7k trailer. Maybe a 6x10, with low side boards. Make sure you don't overload it and carry a shovel. I used to have a 6x14 trailer (not dump) that I hauled gravel on. It was overloaded almost every time. Where I go, you let the loader driver know when to stop. I finally learned the trailer limits, but them sold it, got tired of unloading with a shovel. JC