Beefing up half-ton for gooseneck

nmu98 · Apr 20, 2009

Negligence,
Please read this

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/rural-living/141877-trailer-overloaded-you-think.html

Duffster · Apr 20, 2009

nmu98 said:
Negligence,
Please read this

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/rural-living/141877-trailer-overloaded-you-think.html

That thread doesn't really have anything to do with Negligence's situation

Negligence,

While I agree a 3/4 ton would work better there is no reason why your 1500 won't work. You have obviously done some homework and know what your weights are. You will be at or close to your max ratings but you know that and will keep that in mind when loading. IMO the gooseneck is the best way to haul with any size truck and is even more important with a smaller truck.

Keep your brakes in top mechanical condition on all four axles and you will be fine.

aczlan · Apr 20, 2009

Negligence said:
I'm starting to think that maybe I should pickup a cheap, used 1 ton truck for the hauling work...

Might be cheaper than the upgrades needed on your 1/2 ton( if you go with an older one), will definatly be safer.

Aaron Z

Builder · Apr 20, 2009

Negligence said:
I'm starting to think that maybe I should pickup a cheap, used 1 ton truck for the hauling work...

Right on. There's 100's of cheaper older 1-tons out there looking for work!

I'd suggest buying one and use the 1/2 ton for lighter work.

nmu98 · Apr 20, 2009

Duffster said:
That thread doesn't really have anything to do with Negligence's situation

.

Huh...

Many people think its Ok ot overload a vehicle. Some poeple have little idea about what things weight and go by people estimates, not scales.

If you read the thread through that i listed you will see many referrences to what a 1/2 ton can do. And if you followed the link in the thread, you would also see another person stating he put 22500 pouinds in a ford, then 6,000 pounds. Its all pure BS, but it gives prospective.

All this guy is asking for is problems, and he might hurt someone, maybe himself.

mikeymik'd · Apr 20, 2009

I would truly be surprised if that trailer came in under 5,000lbs.
Mcbrides are notorious for having their axles to far back, putting too much weight on the pin.
When was the last time that trailer was certified (yellow sticker)?
I would not haul that trailer with a 1/2 ton. If you lose your trailer brakes, good luck stopping it in a hurry.

Crash101 · Apr 20, 2009

Negligence said:
The trailer is 27' total, but the neck itself is 7'. So the "floor" portion of the trailer is only 20ft. Sorry if I was misleading.

Payload for the truck bed is 1500lbs. Even with the trailer fully-loaded up to 10,000lbs, the tongue weight (around 20% I read) will be 2,000lbs. I'll never be this heavy -- I just won't bother towing it at this point. For all other weights, with extra springs I should be fine.

I'm two years into a lease on this truck so I can't upgrade without a lot of penalties. It's not worth it for the amount of towing I'd be doing.

Additional springs and higher-rated tires I think I'll be safe. At least that seems to be the general consensus here.

Negligence

That 1500 pound number may not apply to your particular truck. Only one way to find the individual payload. Weigh the truck with full fuel, hitch and you in the seat (this is your operating weight) . Take the GVWR number from the doorjam sticker and subtract your "actual" weight. The result is your "payload". Dodge set the GVWR for your year model half ton 4 wheel drive truck, but the option list and added accessories determine the actual weight. Payload is the difference. That number is going to be closer to a thousand pounds. Be careful when considering general consensus, especially when it tends to recommend driving long distance with a load 2 or 3 times what the truck should be carrying. We tend to either believe our truck is capable of carrying the weight we desire or we wish it to be so. Neither will make it so.

Highbeam · Apr 21, 2009

Also be careful when listening to folks that just refuse to believe that a half ton can do work, generally those folks own much bigger trucks and think that there is no other way.

All along here people have given one key point, stay within all of your ratings. If you do that then you will be fine. This applies to tires, axles, frames, etc. Yes, you can run right at the maximum of the ratings and be fine, that's why the ratings are set.

Trailer brakes are required and are an essential piece of equipment. If you feel that you can't trust trailer brakes then what other piece of your equpiment is not up to par? Maybe the bolts that hold your hitch to the truck, the tie rod ends, etc? Al simple devices that can have devastating consequences during failure.

I am the owner of a one ton truck that is perfectly willing to recommend towing within your ratings using a half ton truck. You need to weigh the truck and trailer to determine if you are within your ratings, no guessing, and that trailer looks heavy.

Wis Bang · Apr 21, 2009

I used to manage a rail to truck transfer yard.

We bought every old 1/2 ton 4x4 ford and chevy we could for hauling the transfer machines around in the railyard. Everyone left, after a few months, on a rollback going to the junkyard after pulling the largest machine. They all had severe damage to the passenger side from being steered into the railcars to stop.

The only one still working when I left was a 3/4 chev 'camper special' that was there when I started. It was also the only one w/ a good right front fender...

They wouldn't even take a free dodge cause the trans would be toasted so fast...

I'd check your lease closely. You do not 'own' this vehicle; you just 'rented' it for a specific period of time. Doing what you want to do could make you liable to pay off what's left of the truck. Then speak to your insurance man. If you exceeded the limitations of your insurance policy YOU will be 100% responsible for anything that happens.

That old one ton down the street w/ the 4 sale sign will be alot cheaper.