3 pt. tiller hookup... frustrating

[JOHNTHOMAS]

These 3ph quick attaches make hooking up implements alot easier. Pat's and the no name ebay ones. Best money I've spent on tractoring add ons. Some people drop implements on roll carts which are great if you have a concrete floor to roll them on, I don't. Always drop implement on flat and level spot. Last week I helped neighbor attach the Kubota tiller he bought from me. Had to unhook it (he had arms attached but couldn't get drive shaft in) and install drive shaft first then attach arms. Also a strong helper is good but 3ph QA with roll cart makes it almost easy.

 

[jas67]

A hard, flat surface (like a concrete slab) and a couple of these:

makes changing 3PH implements MUCH easier. It also makes it easy to move them once they are off the tractor.

You can probably use a piece of 3/4" plywood if you don't have a concrete slab.

I keep all my implements on these dollies. My tiller actually sits on a pallet that is then on these dollies.

Also, telescoping stays instead of check chains make life easier too.

 

[Window Geek]

My tiller works great on my HF quick hitch. I didn't have to cut down the PTO shaft and the connection is simple. I had a little grinding to do on the quick hitch bottom hooks so they wouldn't jamb between the pin and frame. Usually, when I can't get the bottom hooks to reach far enough, I make sure that the top hook isn't too far out. I know that sounds way too simple, but if you get the top hook to engage just before the bottom hooks slide up to the pins and then LIFT with the 3 pt hitch, the tiller will swing and drop into place. (Use the top link to bring the top hook closer or farther away from your tiller.) My shaft will hook up after the connection is made and help avoid dropping the split, greased shaft in the dirt. That NEVER happens!


Paul

 

[westbrooklawn]

Your L3400 should have a turnbuckle arrangement on each lift arm... loosen the locknut at the end of the turnbuckles and turn the turnbuckles in a the direction that pulls the lift arms closer together. Experiment and you will see how it works. when you have the lift arms in the position you need them, tighen the locknut back up at the turnbuckle.

 

[Pirwin21]

Thanks for all the helpful insight. When I got home from work yesterday, I ended up pulling the pin from the check chain that has the turnbuckle on it. The tiller ended up going on relatively easily after that. Adjusted the turnbuckle and then replaced the pin and I was in business. Thanks for all the input!

 

[columbian]

I just spent about an hour and a half hooking up my tiller, moving it a dozen feet, unhooking it, then hooking up the box scraper. By then it was too late to do the work I wanted to do. What a waste.

All the while I'm cussing and wondering what in the world I'm missing. It can't be this hard.

then I come here and see other guys having the same problem. feels slightly better.

But:

What's a spud bar?

I don't get how one guy does not have a problem with the arms going in. that's problem #1 with me. Is there some say of holding them out to the width of the tiller/box scraper hitch brackets (of whatever they're called . . .the things I put the ends of my pto arms into)? I try to keep those things as tightened down as possible and don't like loosening and tightening them each time I hook up.

Or do guys put those brackets the same distance apart as the pto arms naturally sit? That seems really close and unstable . . .?

Does anyone have a sequence on how they hook up that works? Do you put the top pto arm on first or last?

How about the PTO drive shaft?

Do you usually have to lengthen and shorten the top arm from hooking-up length to work length?

Seems like a whole lot of fiddle-farting around, just to go from mowing to tilliing to scraping.

Are some of you suggesting I loosen the implement

 

[Egon]

What's a spud bar?

Pry bar

 

[savageactor7]

Ours is almost 6' long and has come in handy over the years.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

I don't get how one guy does not have a problem with the arms going in. I don't have a problem with that because I use the 3ph quick attach, it just lifts up under the implement pins. that's problem #1 with me. Is there some say of holding them out to the width of the tiller/box scraper hitch brackets (of whatever they're called . . .the things I put the ends of my pto arms into)? I used a piece of tree limb yesterday until my wife showed up and helped me. You can cut a board or pvc pipe to proper width for each implement then notch it to fit over arm and stay in place.I try to keep those things as tightened down as possible (I don't keep mine tightened down as tight as possible so I have no problem with this)and don't like loosening and tightening them each time I hook up.

Or do guys put those brackets the same distance apart as the pto arms naturally sit? That seems really close and unstable . . .?

Does anyone have a sequence on how they hook up that works? Do you put the top pto arm on first or last? I hook drive shaft first, then lower arms, then top arm.

How about the PTO drive shaft?

Do you usually have to lengthen and shorten the top arm from hooking-up length to work length? Often times you do. Depends on implement.

Seems like a whole lot of fiddle-farting around, just to go from mowing to tilliing to scraping. Your right, it is. Buy 2 more tractors and that makes it easier.

Are some of you suggesting I loosen the implement Don't know what you mean here.

Looks like you need to order a set of 3ph quick attachs.

 

[back2earth]

Seems like this would make for a useful Youtube clip if anyone is so inclined

I've been comparing the L2800 and the CK27 and have wondered if the telescoping vs. non-telescoping 3PH setup should sway me one way or the other.