Would a 2000 model year tractor w/ 5 hours scare you?

[fishpick]

that series machine had two issues. 1st, the battery boiling over and acid getting pulled into the radiator, and 2nd, the Hydraulic lines use rubber hoses near the radiator that where prone to leaking.

I was going to PM you - never got around to it... but THANKS!
The battery is - well - when the tractor goes off - you better be able to get to it with a jumper cable... so - that's a non-starter. (pun-ie huh?) Still had some packing plastic attached to it - no boil-over there.
As for the loader hoses... We put the loader on to test her out this weekend... I think the extent of the loader on the tractor was "dealer put it on, guy took delivery, drove it into the basement, took it off (the kickstand for the loader was installed wrong), backed tractor out of loader" - 10 years later - I came along and put the loader back on...
This assumption is based off of 2 things... 1 - there are no marks in the bucket itself (inside, sides, leading edge, nothing) 2 - the attachment point to the tractor still had PAINT inside the lower receiver.

One thing I would like to know - however - and maybe you could help me out @MessickFarmEqu - 2000 TC40D - to now - what "service bulletins" (I can PM the unit SN later if that helps) would be outstanding... as it's safe to say NONE were ever applied... and are those bulletins handled by NH like a car - where even when out of warranty they still do them... or would all of them be "out of pocket" should I want to address them...

 

[fishpick]

Did the switch on the fender work? It does the same thing as the joystick rabbit/turtle switch. If the fender switch worked, then you can simply remove the rubber boot at the bottom of the joystick and check that the rabbit/turtle switch connector is plugged in properly. It's on a pigtail just below the rubber boot. If the switch on the fender also does not work, it's probably a loose connector under the left-side operator's platform where it connects to a solenoid in the transmission.

A quick way to check the rabbit/turtle switch on the joystick is to look at the light in the fender switch. As long as the key is turned on, you should be able to switch between rabbit and turtle on the joystick and watch the light on the fender switch change also. You don't have to have the tractor running to test the rabbit/turtle switch. Also, whenever you turn the key off, the rabbit/turtle switch reverts to turtle the next time you turn the key on.

Fender switch works fine - just the joystick one is "dead"... I started to "dig" under the rubber boot at the base of the joystick and then realized "dude - what are you doing - it's not your tractor" and replaced parts. Figured it's a minor one, good to know it sounds like it is.

Here's a question for you - since you are VERY familiar with this platform... and I have an offer in on one One VERY annoying "safety feature" is the fact that if my rump comes off the seat for any reason - the tractor stalls unless the transmission is in N. Even if I'm not moving - just sitting there - foot off the hydro petals - idle - stand-up - engine dies. So - I'm trying to figure out how the heck - when bush hogging, I would stand up to see right in front of the tractor if needed... (PTO not engaged in this scenario)

 

[WilliamBos]

Keep Us Posted.

 

[Builder]

Fender switch works fine - just the joystick one is "dead"... I started to "dig" under the rubber boot at the base of the joystick and then realized "dude - what are you doing - it's not your tractor" and replaced parts. Figured it's a minor one, good to know it sounds like it is.

Here's a question for you - since you are VERY familiar with this platform... and I have an offer in on one One VERY annoying "safety feature" is the fact that if my rump comes off the seat for any reason - the tractor stalls unless the transmission is in N. Even if I'm not moving - just sitting there - foot off the hydro petals - idle - stand-up - engine dies. So - I'm trying to figure out how the heck - when bush hogging, I would stand up to see right in front of the tractor if needed... (PTO not engaged in this scenario)

My Challenger does that, too.

 

[MarkV]

That safety switch is easily disabled if that is what you want to do.

MarkV

 

[jinman]

Look at the attachment for how to disable the seat switch. Just disconnect the switch connector under the seat and follow the photos attached. I did this the first week I owned my tractor and I've never looked back. I stand up a lot when operating.

The main concern I would have about your tractor is that many of them of similar dates of manufacture had a problem with the transmission. When you are going downhill and using the transmission as a brake, the range lever could jump to neutral. Notice I said "could." I don't think this actually happened on many tractors, but NH had a campaign to inspect and replace the parts. Dealers were supplied a list of serial numbers and owners were notified. My tractor was not on the list. If you buy the tractor, I'd be glad to help you find the discussions of that topic here on TBN in 2001 and 2002 when the campaign was active. I'm not sure if serial numbers were ever published here on TBN, but I would think dealers could still access the list.

 

[scott_vt]

Good Evenin fishpick,
Ive been following along, sounds like your onto the deal of a lifetime !

Good Luck !

 

[fishpick]

Look at the attachment for how to disable the seat switch. Just disconnect the switch connector under the seat and follow the photos attached. I did this the first week I owned my tractor and I've never looked back. I stand up a lot when operating.

That looks the seam, uhh, fix, under the seat of my mini-Bota.

 

[fishpick]

Good Evenin fishpick,
Ive been following along, sounds like your onto the deal of a lifetime !

Good Luck !

Thank you - thank you - fingers crossed here... no call back on the offer I made... not sure if that's a good sign or not. it simply is...

On a very much related note - talked to the local dealer here who has been tops in this process - got pricing for the rear wheels should the rust along the seam be what I think it is and I need new hardware... my guesstimate when looking at the tractor was dead on - looks like it's $315/per wheel rim... and then ball parking around $200 in labor and materials to get the existing rubber off the rotted rims, CaCl made to go away, tires mounted on new rims with new tubes and some magic beet juice added to the rear. SO - $1K all in to have "new" rear wheels.

Should I get a call back tonight - right after I talk to the wife - you all will be the next to know.
But - to be fair and keep you interested - here's a pic... of the tractor in the basement... which was way better than the bat cave. (PS - before there is a flurry of posts about the leak spots... one is dribble from attaching the loader the first time in 9 years... the darker stuff on the right is from a dripping oil rag that was laying on the front axle when we got there - you can see some of the darkness on the axle itself.)

 

[radman1]

Those tractors also had issues with condensation in the dash and condensation in the tail lights. You probably won't see that unless it was recently washed or in the rain.

Myself, I wouldn't be too concerned about the CaCl in the tires and some corrosion. It is common to have a little corrosion in CaCl filled tires. It would takes many years to be a serious problem in most cases. You could use it as a reason for the seller to lower the price. I would not consider replacing any rims until the tires need changing. You could remove the CaCl is desired.