help with a 6 finger clutch

[Turbo]

well it looks like your clutch pack is different than mine yours has three adjustments mine has 2 though the fingers.
with a clutch pack set up on the bench and adjusted properly can you take the PTO push rod and measure the distance between the pressure plate and adjustment nut and use that as a GO or NO/GO gage to check for proper measurements of the others and do the same for the main clutch?

My problem is I can't believe that Jinma company would throw a clutch pack in that's not properly set up other than clutch pedal adjustment throw, and not question the engine, transmission, rear end, integrity ,and host of other thing that make up the tractor... I have to trust something were do I start..

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

Reputable dealers do the alignment before bolting the two halves of the tractor together. Crate tractor buyers must do it themselves.

//greg//

GOOD LORD !....... where do you come you come up with this stuff ??? You really make it hard on the guys seeking help.

I have to rethink the whole concept of what constitutes a "reputable dealer"

//greg//

What constitutes you defineing a reputable dealer greg ??


Turbo, sorry I have not has a Jinma 6 finger in the shop yet. I make be able to help you if you can email me some detailed pictures.


Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

 

[greg_g]

GOOD LORD !....... where do you come you come up with this stuff ??? You really make it hard on the guys seeking help.

Um, that doesn't make any sense. You admit never even having seen a six finger clutch, and Tommy admits never having adjusted one.

I've done three, all quite successful.

Now I'll grant you that it's beginning to appear that Jinma and ShanDong don't use the identical clutchpack. Nevertheless, I'm actively trying to assist the OP with - if with nothing else - at least some generic six finger clutchpack experience. So how does this make me the bad guy here?

//greg//

 

[Turbo]

Thank Ronald , Tommy, and Greg for helping. your knowledge on these tractors are needed and without you we be lost....The tractors coming out are changing all the time and it's apparent that my clutch pack is a new stile, so new that the operation manual hasn't been updated with the new spec. or adjustments,, the old spec I can't trust.. totally different clutch systems... so if any one of you have a new 6 finger clutch in stock it would be a help to all of use you would post pictures and messuments... or I will buy a burned out clutch to analyze...and I will post my findings... Thanks

 

[Affordable]

Turbo,I have the new 6-finger clutch assemblies in stock,and they are not factory adjusted.If you need me to take you some pic's let me know.

On a side note I'm a pilot also,owned/flown several airplanes from Cessna 172XP,Seneca II,58 Baron,King Air 90.Currently don't own one,with the economy the way it is a friend of mine is a corp.pilot says there are alot being repossesed and some great deals out there.


Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma parts Superstore "
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[Turbo]

That would be grate if you take picture and messurments...
I know that when I push in the clutch all the way my PTO stops, it rein gages about 1/4 release , hard to tell with my foot...
now I only have 10 hours on it,, and when shifting into 1,2 or 3 it will grind in ,, my brake is on I am stopped, I even throw my clutch in all the way and let the PTO stop.. and no matter what I do I can't get it to stop grinding in.. shuttle shift some times...
any ideas

 

[greg_g]

If this is your first gear type tractor, perhaps you don't realize that there are no synchros - either for the tranny for the shuttle. Shifting the tranny on the fly requires a lot of practice to minimize grinding, and even with double-clutching a "grind free" shift is not a given. Shuttle shifting MUST be done with the tractor at a COMPLETE halt.

The 1/4 engagement does make it sound like a clutchpack alignment may be in order. But one other simple adjustment may avoid having to split the tractor. If it still grinds putting the tranny into gear with the (running) tractor at a complete halt, the problem may be in pedal travel. When you push the clutch pedal all the way down, it strikes a stop bolt sticking out of the side of the bell housing. If that's out too far, the pedal doesn't make full travel - and the drive clutch will not fully disengage. Loosen the lock nut on the stop bolt, turn the bolt clockwise a few turns and try again. If/when you find the point where the grinding stops, dog down the lock nut.

Understand that there are variations between/among many of these Chinese tractors, so this description is generic. It's compiled from what I've seen on those KAMA/TaiShan/Foton/Jinma tractors that I've worked on over the years. But hopefully it's close enough to your setup to be of some assistance.

//greg//

 

[Turbo]

I adjusted it to it's maximum throw, and if you notice the start switch is at its min. length , for me to have the arm move any farther in, I have to move the switch/ Becket to some place else... the clutch does disengage , but the gear chirps/grinds to stop the gear rotating as it goes in...
I am well aware of the straight gearing in the tractor, and it doesn't have syncs,, the funny part of it is I can up shift on the fly, ( on the move)
without any grinding... but stopped it will chirp every time...

please explain what a clutch pack alignment means and how you go about doing it.. and what measurement you use...and where you get the info from...

there is no dealer around me ,, so as far as you need to know I am the dealer... and I have to repair, fix or adjust it... your very knowledgeable
and your help is appecated... thank you.

 

[greg_g]

please explain what a clutch pack alignment means and how you go about doing it.. and what measurement you use...and where you get the info from..

It involves setting the stack height, then leveling the two sets of fingers so - once the tractor is reassembled - the two sets of fingers will be equidistant both from each other, and from the TOB face. In some cases this is done on the bench, in others you can do it while the clutchpack is still bolted to the flywheel. But I've never seen an inspection window big enough to do one from the outside. Splitting the tractor is pretty much a given.

As far as the specs, it's unsafe to assume that the ones I gave you (for my clutchpacks) apply to yours. There's an overall stack height, there's the distance between the two sets of fingers, then there's the fine tuning to equi-distance each of the six fingers. The numbers I gave you earlier actually came from my operations manual (not the parts manual). But it appears that your clutchpack is newer than the operations manual that came with the tractor. Tommy and Ronald are clearly in the same position as you; new style clutchpack, no specs.

At this point, I see four alternatives

• do nothing and live with a little noise,
• wait for Tommy or Ronald to come up with something
• split the tractor and try my specs
• split the tractor and use trial and error to develop your own specs

Before considering mine though, understand the numbers I gave you are based upon a stack height of 101.5mm. If yours is significantly different, it's probably best not to rely on my numbers at all.

//greg//