Rotella 5w-40 synthetic

[vsteel]

I run Rotella synthetic 5W-40 in my:
JD 2320 50 hours
1991 GMC Sonoma 4.3 motor 180,000 miles
1999 Pontiac grand prix 3.8 motor 138,000 miles
1974 Dodge W200, 360 motor 5,000 on rebuild
2006 Triumph speed triple 17,000 miles
2002 scots (JD in orange) 1642 mower 16hp Kohler (mowed about 1.5 acres a week)
1999 push mower 6.5 HP B&S (mowed the 1.5 acres with it before the tractor)


None of the items mentioned have any oil issues, the only things that burn any oil are the GMC pickup and the push mower. Both just a tiny puff when first started and stop within about 2 seconds. Both will get almost to the point of adding oil when its time to change it.

 

[sw03]

I run Rotella synthetic 5W-40 in my:
JD 2320 50 hours
1991 GMC Sonoma 4.3 motor 180,000 miles
1999 Pontiac grand prix 3.8 motor 138,000 miles
1974 Dodge W200, 360 motor 5,000 on rebuild
2006 Triumph speed triple 17,000 miles
2002 scots (JD in orange) 1642 mower 16hp Kohler (mowed about 1.5 acres a week)
1999 push mower 6.5 HP B&S (mowed the 1.5 acres with it before the tractor)


None of the items mentioned have any oil issues, the only things that burn any oil are the GMC pickup and the push mower. Both just a tiny puff when first started and stop within about 2 seconds. Both will get almost to the point of adding oil when its time to change it.

For older cars it is great. For newer cars and better MPG, smoother engine I will still take Amsoil 0w-20...

 

[vsteel]

For older cars it is great. For newer cars and better MPG, smoother engine I will still take Amsoil 0w-20...

I don't know anything about Amsoil personally, but 0w-20 seems a little thin. I would feel better with the higher number at 30 or above.

 

[carpenter383]

The SAE and ASTM have done several studies that showed considerable plugging of converters if engine oils with high levels of zinc,phosphorus and ash. That's the whole reason the spec's on maximum limits of these additives have changed over the years.

The last time I swaped the cam in my car Comp Cams recomended using deisel oil for the break-in period. Oil which has been stripped of zinc and phosphorus has poorer lubricating qualities and could cause the cam to loose a lobe.

 

[sw03]

I don't know anything about Amsoil personally, but 0w-20 seems a little thin. I would feel better with the higher number at 30 or above.

In a new gas engine, I would NEVER run Rotella 5w-40..Comparing to Amsoil night and day dude.

 

[DieselPower]

I don't know anything about Amsoil personally, but 0w-20 seems a little thin. I would feel better with the higher number at 30 or above.

Actually, many newer gasoline engines call for xxW20 engine oils. In the coming years expect to see more and more manufacturers going to this grade.

 

[Sully2]

In a new gas engine, I would NEVER run Rotella 5w-40..Comparing to Amsoil night and day dude.

BUT..thats YOUR opinion. Others have totally different opinions about Amsoil products!

 

[DieselPower]

The last time I swaped the cam in my car Comp Cams recomended using deisel oil for the break-in period. Oil which has been stripped of zinc and phosphorus has poorer lubricating qualities and could cause the cam to loose a lobe.

A new or freshly rebuilt and a broken in engine are two different things. A new cam and lifters if inspected under a microscope will show a very rough surface, think of a squiggly line with lot's of peaks. There is a much greater load placed on these peaks when new when compared to one that has broken in and is smoothed out. Once the break in process has occurred there is no reason to run oils with very high zinc/phosphate levels, they no longer serve a purpose at this increased level. Vintage cars/trucks and highly modified gas engines would be a exception due to increased loads placed on the valve train. In a modern gasoline engine it's going to nothing but shorten the life of oxygen sensors, catalytic converters and possibly even EGR valves.

If your breaking in a engine probably the best bang for the buck in a additive with extremely high ZDDP levels would be to go to your local GM dealer (while they are still around ) and pick up a bottle or two of GM assembly lube. It makes a excellent additive to boost the additive levels of the oil during the break in period.

 

[Sully2]

Isnt that GM assembly lube basically moly disulfide? ( at least thats what I used to be told). I know we used to buy Moly D in a tube ( like toothpaste) and apply it to cams..etc..etc...with a small brush

 

[Rob_Roy]

Isnt that GM assembly lube basically moly disulfide? ( at least thats what I used to be told). I know we used to buy Moly D in a tube ( like toothpaste) and apply it to cams..etc..etc...with a small brush

No, the GM EOS doesn't contain moly. At least not the bottles that I have used. The label on the stuff I have looks like this:

The back of the bottle reads: "Contains: Mineral Oil Blend, Calcium Sulfonate-CAS#71486-79-8, Zinc Dialkyldithiophosphate-CAS#68649-42-3, Polysiobutene-CAS#9003-27-4."

-Robert