Golden jubilee smoking electrics

[jube newbe]

Will
To answer a previous question I missed, the original coil is old and rusted so I couldnt tell if it said internal or external, The one I replaced it with says external resistor needed, this is the one I used when the resistor blew. The one I just got but havent used ( NAPA IC14SB) is true 12v and states it doesnt need an external ballast. The wiring is same as the wiring diagram except for the switch and resistor between battery and coil.

So can we assume the original coil had an internal resistor and the problem is arising because some muppet in the parts store sold me a 6v and told me it would work?

 

[Willl]

Sorry will.. you flunked electronics 101

No, I flunked 'Ford tractor' electronics.

 

[Soundguy]

So if the wiring circuit look correct?
If I put the true 12volt coil on it should work?

get a real 12v coil like the napa ic14sb, and no resistors.

as an easy to remember wire schematic for a naa with an alternator and and modern 2-post ammeter.

wire alternator to one side of ammeter.. wire headlamps and ignition to that side as well.. wire the other side to the battery. if meter reads backwards, swap wires side to side..

this preserves the net charge / discharge scheme that was originally setup using the loop ammeter.

all electrical loads and charge current on one side of the meter.. battery solely on the other side... key on, points closed , or lamps on, should show a negative deflection... engine running and charging.. positive deflection.

if it is a delco 10/12 SI 3-wire alternator, you can run the #2 terminal looped to the charge stud, and the #1 terminal thru a 194 lamp to the switched ( coil) side of the ignition switch. this gives you the classic idiot lamp setup.. key on = lamp on.. start engine and get above 400rpm and alternator starts charging and lamp goes out... if lamp comes on when engine is running, a discharge is occuring.. ie.. no charge.

a diode of 3a/200piv can be used in place of the lamp.. place marked cathode side of the diode toward the alternator. 1N5408 is a good diode choice..

soundguy

 

[Willl]

So can we assume

I ain't going to assume anything on a Ford tractor again.

 

[Soundguy]

No, I flunked 'Ford tractor' electronics.

No.. it really was just plain automotive electronics you flunked .. you are confusing the functioning of a 'ballast resistor with an 'ignition bypass style relay' that incorporates a resistor or resistor wire....

ford figured it out just fine..

soundguy

 

[jube newbe]

Soundguy

I have the Napa coil you describe, it should work with my wiring diagram correct?

 

[Willl]

No.. it really was just plain automotive electronics you flunked .. you are confusing the functioning of a 'ballast resistor with an 'ignition bypass style relay' that incorporates a resistor or resistor wire....

ford figured it out just fine..

soundguy

Ah, I'm an old chevy guy.

And ya, it was a 4 term starter solenoid.

 

[jinman]

My apologies to everyone for putting a bad link into my last post. Soundguy, thanks for joining this discussion with your detailed knowledge.

Here is a corrected link to schematics for 8N tractors and 12 volt conversions.

6 to 12 vdc

 

[Soundguy]

Soundguy

I have the Napa coil you describe, it should work with my wiring diagram correct?

uh.. what you mark as 'stator plate' is really 'breaker plate'.. and you need a switch inline with the coil from the battery...

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

Ah, I'm an old chevy guy.

And ya, it was a 4 term starter solenoid.

Not all 4 terminal solenoids are ignition bypass style.

there are also 'isolated base' style.

In fact.. the isolated base style is commonly use don 12v conversions on fords, as you can wire one of the small 'coil' terminals to bat hot.. or key-hot, and the other to the grounding thumb switch, and it will function like an oem style solenoid. the 4 terminal ignition bypass solenoids are not directly compatible with the grounding thumb starter switch, as the solenoid finds ground thru it's mounting legs...

soundguy