whitedogone
Gold Member
Excellent, I think I would fall into the second catagory of inspector. 
Garage project
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dieselsmoke1
Platinum Member
Too wet outside so I'll build in here a while. Rainy day sketchup.
OP
dieselsmoke1
Platinum Member
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Interesting. I like the look of the brick on the inside. I haven't seen that before.
Will the slab tie into the walls? or will it float?
We build houses like this in California with the garage floor being poured after everything else was about done. I never understood why they did this, and I was too young to care or find out. Sometimes it was the last thing done, other times it was done after the roof was on or some part during the framing. I just figured it was a scheduling thing, but again, I never asked anybody.
I'm looking forward to your progress.
Eddie
Will the slab tie into the walls? or will it float?
We build houses like this in California with the garage floor being poured after everything else was about done. I never understood why they did this, and I was too young to care or find out. Sometimes it was the last thing done, other times it was done after the roof was on or some part during the framing. I just figured it was a scheduling thing, but again, I never asked anybody.
I'm looking forward to your progress.
Eddie
whitedogone
Gold Member
Sweet
you going to put a VB down or insulation?
you going to put a VB down or insulation?
Builder
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I have to deal with inspectors on a weekly basis. They're just like everyone else-good and bad ones. The young ones are particularly entertaining. I built a house for one of the younger ones once who tried to tell me how I had to toe-nail with 16P nails a certain way he had dreamed-up while looking at the computer in his office.
Just for giggles I asked him to do a field demonstration for us and we all got a chuckle watching him take about 26 whacks (1/2 misses, 1/2 hits)at a 16P toenail that I beat in on 4 swings. Wasn't much wood left on the bottom of the stud.
Retired builders make great inspectors. They have a realistic sense of what's OK and what's not. The young ones that have something to prove usually have no concept of what's really going on.
'nudder funny story: We have a father & son building inspector team near us. Talk about a couple chuckle heads....the son's upstairs in my building trying to look at a widow rough opening pushes my plywood sheathing off the opening and it falls 2 stories down and clubs the old man on the head. Maybe that'll knock some sense into him...
The good ones are all retiring. Those guys are much appreciated.
Good luck on the garage.
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dieselsmoke1
Platinum Member
There will be an expansion joint attached to the foundation walls where the pad butts but no fixed anchors, so it's probably correct to say the pad floats inside the walls. Most garages here are monolitic slabs and they work fine, I decided to go with a separate foundation with knee walls because it's more forgiving to grade to on the side of this hill and it matches my existing garage. BTW Eddie, your observation on the entry door rattled in my head till, as you can see by the photo, I bumped it to a 3'0". I'll thank you many times in the days ahead, but right now I'm still muttering.
Pretty temperate here so no need to insulate under the slab. Plan to use a vapor barrier with wire, not much faith in fiber added to the mix. Many moons ago we used regular visqueen but time has proven that a poor choice. I plan to use a 10-15 mill product made for the task.
Pretty temperate here so no need to insulate under the slab. Plan to use a vapor barrier with wire, not much faith in fiber added to the mix. Many moons ago we used regular visqueen but time has proven that a poor choice. I plan to use a 10-15 mill product made for the task.
Gary Fowler
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When I got my shop /garage built, I had the builder put in an additional 8" CMU block on the walls . The plans were for 9 foot walls, but with the blocks it gives me additional 8" ceiling heights. HE was using the CMU blocks for forming anyway so the additional block height was a low cost wall extension.
The interior walls and ceiling are insulated and finished with 3/8" plywood. The only downside, if you want to call it that, is there is a 3" ledge around the wall. I makes good storage area for small objects to set on rather than on the floor, like rakes, brooms small bottles etc. The CMU block allows me to hose out the floor without wetting my walls which was the original idea.
The interior walls and ceiling are insulated and finished with 3/8" plywood. The only downside, if you want to call it that, is there is a 3" ledge around the wall. I makes good storage area for small objects to set on rather than on the floor, like rakes, brooms small bottles etc. The CMU block allows me to hose out the floor without wetting my walls which was the original idea.
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Builder
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It also keeps your sill plate, framing, sheathing & siding up above your finish grade. We're required to have 8" of exposed masonry exterior above the finish grade in most cases.
Builder
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There will be an expansion joint attached to the foundation walls where the pad butts but no fixed anchors, so it's probably correct to say the pad floats inside the walls. Most garages here are monolitic slabs and they work fine, I decided to go with a separate foundation with knee walls because it's more forgiving to grade to on the side of this hill and it matches my existing garage. BTW Eddie, your observation on the entry door rattled in my head till, as you can see by the photo, I bumped it to a 3'0". I'll thank you many times in the days ahead, but right now I'm still muttering.
Pretty temperate here so no need to insulate under the slab. Plan to use a vapor barrier with wire, not much faith in fiber added to the mix. Many moons ago we used regular visqueen but time has proven that a poor choice. I plan to use a 10-15 mill product made for the task.
Have you considered rebar? Of all the shops I've built (2 of them were my own) where we used rebar, there's been absolutely no concrete failure. What I do is set rebar on a 2' x 2' grid and drill the rods into the inside walls of the block. It hangs the slab off the inside wall. When you dug your footing trenches, you "overdug" them by perhaps a foot or so on the inside and outside. This area is now disturbed/soft and needs to be spanned with rebar, IMO, to insure it won's fracture. We compact both sides of the trench with a jumping jack, but still use rebar anyway.
My last shop was built partially on compacted fill. Even though I compacted it, I knew it would still settle slightly in spots. I used rebar and I able to park a 16 ton truck in my shop for the last 6 years without any cracks from settling.
The cost for rebar for your garage might be a couple hundred bucks and might save you from an unsightly settlement crack later.
Here's one of my shop floors 6 years later. Notice only the saw joint cuts.
Here's another I built with 2'x2' rebar grid in the concrete:
