Worklight wiring questions for you Electrical Gurus

[bandit67]

OK, here are some pics of my bolt-on brackets before they were wired.

The 2 light switches are from an L39, I think, and the part number is 36919-54222. I ordered them from my dealer - they were around $33 each.

Relays - I had a local auto parts store order them in - I brought in this wiring diagram I got from another TBN member so we could match up the relays - around $10 each.
http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/...7786wiring.JPG

 

[HCJ]

Thanks alot!!!

 

[medicshawn]

You can buy switches for 5.40 instead of 33. at the website below.

SPST Waterproof Miniature Rocker Switch (On-Off) 16A Green 12V - VETCO.NET

 

[HCJ]

OK, here are some pics of my bolt-on brackets before they were wired.

The 2 light switches are from an L39, I think, and the part number is 36919-54222. I ordered them from my dealer - they were around $33 each.

Relays - I had a local auto parts store order them in - I brought in this wiring diagram I got from another TBN member so we could match up the relays - around $10 each.
http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/...7786wiring.JPG

Bandit, I now have the same Kubota switches you have. Can you help me in wiring them? I know the pair of wires ( black and red) are for the ground and power to the bulb on the switch. How about the top three, yellow, orange and blue. I assume I use only two of these. One to the fuse box and the other to Pin 85 and to the red of the first pair I mentioned. Is this right? If so, which two connect to the fuse box and to pin 85? On my switch, the orange one is in the middle. Sorry to trouble you

 

[mjncad]

Nice work on mounting the lights Bandit. I like how you put Caplugs in the ends of the tubing, and covers on the threads of your bolts to protect your head from cuts.

Are you going to put the wires in plastic loom? That would finish it off very nicely.

I used 14GA wire on my relays for the lights and 18GA for the switches controlling the relay coils.

 

[bandit67]

Yes, the wires are plastic loomed and zip tied to the ROPS. Worked great last winter.

Harold,

I can't remember much of the wiring. I thought I took pics of the connections, but I can't find any, so I must not have done it. I know I had to do some testing with the meter to determine what needed to be connected to what. I would have to pull some of the dash apart to take a look at my wiring.

I remember pulling the switch apart to look at the internal connections on the 3 wires to determine which one was which. Once the switch was apart, it was pretty easy to determine which one was the ground (the switch was connected to that wire both in the on and off position). I remember the other 2 being a bit tricky, and can't remember if all 3 were connected or if only 2 were. Like I said, I'm going to have to pull it all apart to take a look at the connections to re-aquaint myself with what I did.

I did wire the small bulb inside the switch to a wire from the factory lights that only is powered when I turn on the factory lights. However, I powered the relays through a switched ignition wire, so I can turn on the ROPS lights without turning on the factory lights, but only when the key is on so that I don't run the risk of draining the battery.

 

[bandit67]

One to the fuse box and the other to Pin 85 and to the red of the first pair I mentioned. Is this right? If so, which two connect to the fuse box and to pin 85? On my switch, the orange one is in the middle. Sorry to trouble you

I think some of that may be a bit off.

I ran a 10 gauge wire with a 30 amp inline fuse directly from the battery to the 2 relays' Pin 30, just like in the diagram on the first page of this thread.

Pin 85 is a ground wire - connect that to the tractor.
Pin 87 is a power wire to the lights
Pin 86 comes from the dash mounted switch, so that the relay is only able to pass the 30amp battery power through pin 87 when you activate your green Kubota switch.

 

[HCJtractor]

Thanks! Don't go to the trouble of disassembling your dash for this! I can figure it out with the information you gave. I really appreciate your response.

 

[HCJtractor]

I think some of that may be a bit off.

I ran a 10 gauge wire with a 30 amp inline fuse directly from the battery to the 2 relays' Pin 30, just like in the diagram on the first page of this thread.

Pin 85 is a ground wire - connect that to the tractor.
Pin 87 is a power wire to the lights
Pin 86 comes from the dash mounted switch, so that the relay is only able to pass the 30amp battery power through pin 87 when you activate your green Kubota switch.

I think from what I have read elsewhere, pins 85 and 86 are interchangeable, and it would work both ways. There is another diagram posted many places that show using 86 as a ground. That is the only difference I see between your wiring and what I propose. Again, thanks. I sent you a private e-mail you can disregard. I was not sure you would see this posting.

I am using LED lights by Truck-Lite instead of halogens. They pull very little amps (I think 1.2 each) I tried them out in my yard one night with a 12V source and they look good. I am placing two trapezoid spots on the front and two floods on the rear. I will wire them separately on two different relays.

 

[kennyd]

I think from what I have read elsewhere, pins 85 and 86 are interchangeable, and it would work both ways. There is another diagram posted many places that show using 86 as a ground. That is the only difference I see between your wiring and what I propose. Again, thanks. I sent you a private e-mail you can disregard. I was not sure you would see this posting.

I am using LED lights by Truck-Lite instead of halogens. They pull very little amps (I think 1.2 each) I tried them out in my yard one night with a 12V source and they look good. I am placing two trapezoid spots on the front and two floods on the rear. I will wire them separately on two different relays.

Here is a diagram I drew for some others...might be of a help to you.