Shop Tricks

[Workstead]

>> DRILL PRESS TIPs <<

When chucking a bit, progressively tighten in ALL THREE HOLES, going from hole to hole, tightening a little more each time.

Doing thus, your bits will be held tighter and the chuck will last much longer.

Hey Bearkiller,

I'm not a machinist by a long shot and an old timer told me once that by tightening a 3 jaw chuck in all 3 holes it helps to center the bit and make it more accurate, especially on a lathe. That's why he always used a 4 jaw chuck.

Clem

 

[BearKiller]

>> FREE PERSONALIZED STICKERS <<

This tip won't work for everyone, but is really neat for those that are fortunate enough to benefit from it.

For the last several local/state elections, there have been two candidates that both have the same last name as I. (I have never voted for either)

During their campaigns, both of these guys, and often also their supporters, will come into our public business and leave a big stack of bumper-stickers, along with such things as match-books, ink-pens, key-tags, etc.

As soon as they are gone, I grab all the stickers.

In big bold letters is my last name.

I take the scissors to the stickers, neatly cutting out my last name, tossing the rest in the trash.

I stick these on gates, equipment, trailers, tools, anywhere that I want people to know "this is mine".

 

[Ken45101]

OTOH, people might remember the name and think YOU are a politician

 

[BearKiller]

OTOH, people might remember the name and think YOU are a politician

No way; I am too blunt, direct, too-the-point, and honest.

 

[The Haymaker]

No way; I am too blunt, direct, too-the-point, and honest.

Add "integrity" to that list and I'll vote for you as the next Maine state senator!

 

[bobodu]

Add "integrity" to that list and I'll vote for you as the next Maine state senator!

I dunno...he said he takes ALL of the stickers.....
Sounds more like the people we have had for some time.

 

[/pine]

This is more of an application (non mechanical) tip rather than a "shop" tip...and it's widely know among most wood workers...

When you're fastening or repairing thin or small pieces of wood with finish nails or brads...flatten or blunt the point of the nail to prevent splits...

The flattened point tends to punch a hole through the wood rather than parting (splitting) the fibers...

another wood working tip is to rub the threads of wood screws with bar soap or candle wax when penetrating hard woods...

one more...in a pinch a length of nylon string can be used to cut PVC pipe (even schedule 40)

OK one more (for trim carpentry) when fitting mitered boards like window or door casings etc...it can be difficult to hold a tape measure on the "short point" of a 45 or other angled cut...using a piece of wood or plywood ...hook your tape on a square end and make a mark (crowfoot, i.e., ^) at the desired length...then hold the "short point" of the mitered end of the molding on the square end of the board or plywood and transfer the measured mark onto the molding to make the second miter cut..

 

[carpenter383]

This is more of an application (non mechanical) tip rather than a "shop" tip...and it's widely know among most wood workers...

When you're fastening or repairing thin or small pieces of wood with finish nails or brads...flatten or blunt the point of the nail to prevent splits...

The flattened point tends to punch a hole through the wood rather than parting (splitting) the fibers...

another wood working tip is to rub the threads of wood screws with bar soap or candle wax when penetrating hard woods...

one more...in a pinch a length of nylon string can be used to cut PVC pipe (even schedule 40)

OK one more (for trim carpentry) when fitting mitered boards like window or door casings etc...it can be difficult to hold a tape measure on the "short point" of a 45 or other angled cut...using a piece of wood or plywood ...hook your tape on a square end and make a mark (crowfoot, i.e., ^) at the desired length...then hold the "short point" of the mitered end of the molding on the square end of the board or plywood and transfer the measured mark onto the molding to make the second miter cut..

[/COLOR]


Or just add the ammount of margin you want.
Example: If you're trimming an interior door measure from the bottom of the jamb to the inside edge of the top jamb. Usually 81" just add 1/4" making 81 1-4" and that's your short point.
If it's a window and it measures 36x48" to the inside edge of the jambs you would add 1/2" because you need 1/4" on each end. This would be 36 1/2"x 48 1/2"

Clear as mud right?

 

[carpenter383]

Sorry /pine I figured out what you were trying to explain and you're right that method will work fine. You were talking about tranfering your measurments to the peice of trim.
I usually just lock my tape and "burn an inch" meaning I hold the 1" mark on the short point and add an inch to my measurment. Either way works fine- to each his own.

 

[/pine]

..."burn an inch" meaning I hold the 1" mark on the short point...[/url]

I agree this is an accurate way to measure (cutting an inch etc)...but sometimes holding a tape against certain types of moldings can be awkward.

[note]
something else that probably should be pointed out for non-profrssional wood workers is...when doing such work as trimming/casing where there are multiple miter joints...you should almost always measure "short points" of angle/miter cuts...The reason being...all milled stock may not be perfectly dimensioned...and on intricate joints even a fraction can make a big difference (especially on stained or finish work that does not get calked and painted)...by cutting "short points" should one piece of material me slightly different it will show up on the (outside) long points that can easily be trimmed back on the opposite piece which is not nearly as noticeable...FWIW