My pole barn...a solo affair

[MtnViewRanch]

Danno1,
That is what Mikim explained to me today. I was thinking the door ways need beams, but didn't realize perimeter beams by the poles will keep the edges from cracking.
Thanks!
hugs, Brandi

More $$$$

 

[bindian]

More $$$$

Call it sweat equity. It sounds better that way.
hugs, Brandi

 

[EddieWalker]

Wire gives a concrete pad an amazing amount of strength when installed properly, unfortunately, it's rarely done properly. What happens is it's layed out on the ground or sub base just fine. Then the crew pulls it up when the concrete is being dumped. In theory, this should work, but in reality, the wire mesh never makes it to the middle of the concrete. In a few places, it might be near the top or even come out of the top, which is bad, but most of the time, it's in the bottom of the pad. It is VERY DIFICULT to get wire mesh in the center of the pad. Of course, you will have no way of knowing this until it's tore apart. If you have cracks, the contractor comes up with one of a dozen plausible excuses why it's not his fault. Only when you cut it up do you realize why it's really cracking. All cement cracks, but with rebar or wire properly installed, it doesn't lose it's strength when it cracks.

Eddie

 

[bindian]

Wire gives a concrete pad an amazing amount of strength when installed properly, unfortunately, it's rarely done properly. What happens is it's layed out on the ground or sub base just fine. Then the crew pulls it up when the concrete is being dumped. In theory, this should work, but in reality, the wire mesh never makes it to the middle of the concrete. In a few places, it might be near the top or even come out of the top, which is bad, but most of the time, it's in the bottom of the pad. It is VERY DIFICULT to get wire mesh in the center of the pad. Of course, you will have no way of knowing this until it's tore apart. If you have cracks, the contractor comes up with one of a dozen plausible excuses why it's not his fault. Only when you cut it up do you realize why it's really cracking. All cement cracks, but with rebar or wire properly installed, it doesn't lose it's strength when it cracks.

Eddie

Eddie,
The times I have helped pour concrete, we grab the wire with a hoe and pull it up a little. I saw some wire rebar supports, about 12 inches long and about 3 or 4 inches wide, that look like they could be used to hold up wire mesh also. I already have the wire. Now I need to find a place that sales 20 or 30 foot long rebar.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

I am starting to build my front barn door, Saturday after next. Finally. Should I hang the door frame and add the heavy siding, or should I lay the frame flat on the ground and install the siding. The door is 12x10 feet. It will be a sliding door.
hugs, Brandi

 

[radioman]

I am no means of being an expert at building doors- but I do know squareness is important with doors. Building it on the flat, level surface, squaring it up before siding put on can help greatly in ensuring the squareness. nothing is more frustrating in trying to adjust a door that is slightly out of square to close tightly. Since you have a red beast, it can be used as a crane to lift the heavy doors providing you have attachment points. On the other hand building the door while already hung can greatly improve the chances to make adjustments to any slight out of lean on the barn walls to make it weather tight.

just my 2 cents- I hope I have caused any sleepiness nights

 

[Erik_in_Hoyt]

I'd hang the frame then add siding, unless you have help. (other than the dog)
Hanging the frame will be enough of a chore without the extra weight.

 

[firefighter9208]

Brandi,

I built mine on the ground. Two 6'x10' to cover a 10'x10' opening. 2x4 frame with cross braces. 1/4" plywood on the inside for stiffness. I installed the 26 ga. tin before installing the door.

It was all me and two other "good sized" men could do to lift the doors into the tracks.

It was much easier to get the door square building it on the ground.

If I were to build another one, I would wait about installing the tin until I had the door hung. You do need to go ahead and install the 1/4" plywood on the inside of the frame to keep it from racking when you lift it.

Chris

 

[MarkV]

Brandi, my advice would be to build the frame on the ground and hang it before sheathing because of weight. Even with some help it will be heavy. What I would do though is when you have the frame on the ground and can square it up properly, tack on some temporary diagonal supports on the inside of the door. Once hung you can add your finish material on the outside face to lock it square and remove the inside temporary bracing.

MarkV

 

[bindian]

I am no means of being an expert at building doors- but I do know squareness is important with doors. Building it on the flat, level surface, squaring it up before siding put on can help greatly in ensuring the squareness. nothing is more frustrating in trying to adjust a door that is slightly out of square to close tightly. Since you have a red beast, it can be used as a crane to lift the heavy doors providing you have attachment points. On the other hand building the door while already hung can greatly improve the chances to make adjustments to any slight out of lean on the barn walls to make it weather tight.

just my 2 cents- I hope I have caused any sleepiness nights

Radioman,
I plan on building the door frame with corner angles braces and corner splice plates. Before I install the corner splice plates, I am going to install eyebolts and attach turn buckles and install bracing wire to make a big X so I can adjust the turn buckles to have a square door forever. I can use the Big RED Beast to hang the door, but I think I will decide to sheet the door installed or laying down after I handle the door frame by itself to get a "feel" for which way to go.
You didn't cause any sleepless nights..........I work nights!
hugs, Brandi