My pole barn...a solo affair

[bindian]

My rule of thumb is ....under a roof = smooth ....outside = broom...go with smooth. And I really don't think you'd even need the 5" concrete if you were to put some rebar in it. Course I don't know which is cheaper -- I just like a lot of steel in my concrete. The more the better.

Mike,
Do you mean rebar or concrete reinforcing wire? I have always thought goes where supporting walls are, which are none in a pole barn.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

I'd definitely go with smooth... for exactly the reasons you mentioned. But, if you ever have horses walking on it, it may be a little slick for them...

Brian,
If I bring horses on to the concrete, they will be walking or standing on rubber mats.
hugs, Brandi

 

[mikim]

rebar or concrete reinforcing wire?
Yes .... In my barn they put rebar every 12" (both directions and tied together) and cross beams every 10' with additional bar, so no wire was needed. If I had done it myself I would have put rebar every 24 or 36" then wire on top......But both are overkill. Rebar MUST be put in the beams around the outside ....and it's a REAL good idea to have beams running across every 10 - 15 feet or so with rebar in those as well ....then use your wire throughout. That would be the more normal way to do it, and would be plenty strong enough for what you'll be doing. Unless of course you have plans to buy and park a dozer in there. (in which case let me know cause I could stand to borrow one sometime)

 

[bindian]

Well, I think you just solved a problem for me. I've been trying to figure out how to build my next garage/barn with two lean tos and with some style.

That barn looks great!

Thanks for all of the pics, when I get home, I'll have to save them all!

Flatheadyoungin,
Thanks. Imitation is the highest form of flattery! I modeled my barn after the one in the photo. It is fancier, but has a shed on the far side. Look back through this thread and you will see a drawing of the roof trusses, which gives the barn the 1 foot high full length ridge vent.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

rebar or concrete reinforcing wire?
Yes .... In my barn they put rebar every 12" (both directions and tied together) and cross beams every 10' with additional bar, so no wire was needed. If I had done it myself I would have put rebar every 24 or 36" then wire on top......But both are overkill. Rebar MUST be put in the beams around the outside ....and it's a REAL good idea to have beams running across every 10 - 15 feet or so with rebar in those as well ....then use your wire throughout. That would be the more normal way to do it, and would be plenty strong enough for what you'll be doing. Unless of course you have plans to buy and park a dozer in there. (in which case let me know cause I could stand to borrow one sometime)

Mike,
I will do some figures on all of this. I can space out buying rebar and installing it, instead of going with 5.5 inches of concrete. Just gotta figure out if it is worth the rebar and extra work to save 2 inches of concrete. I saw a D3 Cat in the Bryan edition of American classified last night. Sure is mighty tempting.
hugs, Brandi

 

[mikim]

yeah -- I don't have any idea how much rebar is these days ... but the work isn't that bad with your loader and bh ... smooth / level the area, dig the perimeter beams, then dig the cross beams, then hire the rest out. If'n I wuz retired ....like in 20 months .... I'd do it all short of the pour & finish ...but it takes time I ain't got.

 

[bindian]

yeah -- I don't have any idea how much rebar is these days ... but the work isn't that bad with your loader and bh ... smooth / level the area, dig the perimeter beams, then dig the cross beams, then hire the rest out. If'n I wuz retired ....like in 20 months .... I'd do it all short of the pour & finish ...but it takes time I ain't got.

Mike,
Pole barn equals no perimeter beams. The poles have the wall perimeter supported. Unless I am missing something. Gotta run.
hugs, Brandi

 

[ultrarunner]

Mike, I saw a D3 Cat in the Bryan edition of American classified last night. Sure is mighty tempting. hugs, Brandi

Hi Brandi... A D3 is a very capable dozer and I'm pleased with mine...

 

[Danno1]

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Brandi,

The perimeter beams are to strengthen the edge of the slab.

.

 

[bindian]

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Brandi,

The perimeter beams are to strengthen the edge of the slab.

.

Danno1,
That is what Mikim explained to me today. I was thinking the door ways need beams, but didn't realize perimeter beams by the poles will keep the edges from cracking.
Thanks!
hugs, Brandi

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Danno1,
That is what Mikim explained to me today. I was thinking the door ways need beams, but didn't realize perimeter beams by the poles will keep the edges from cracking.
Thanks!
hugs, Brandi

More $$$$

 

[bindian]

More $$$$

Call it sweat equity. It sounds better that way.
hugs, Brandi

 

[EddieWalker]

Wire gives a concrete pad an amazing amount of strength when installed properly, unfortunately, it's rarely done properly. What happens is it's layed out on the ground or sub base just fine. Then the crew pulls it up when the concrete is being dumped. In theory, this should work, but in reality, the wire mesh never makes it to the middle of the concrete. In a few places, it might be near the top or even come out of the top, which is bad, but most of the time, it's in the bottom of the pad. It is VERY DIFICULT to get wire mesh in the center of the pad. Of course, you will have no way of knowing this until it's tore apart. If you have cracks, the contractor comes up with one of a dozen plausible excuses why it's not his fault. Only when you cut it up do you realize why it's really cracking. All cement cracks, but with rebar or wire properly installed, it doesn't lose it's strength when it cracks.

Eddie

 

[bindian]

Wire gives a concrete pad an amazing amount of strength when installed properly, unfortunately, it's rarely done properly. What happens is it's layed out on the ground or sub base just fine. Then the crew pulls it up when the concrete is being dumped. In theory, this should work, but in reality, the wire mesh never makes it to the middle of the concrete. In a few places, it might be near the top or even come out of the top, which is bad, but most of the time, it's in the bottom of the pad. It is VERY DIFICULT to get wire mesh in the center of the pad. Of course, you will have no way of knowing this until it's tore apart. If you have cracks, the contractor comes up with one of a dozen plausible excuses why it's not his fault. Only when you cut it up do you realize why it's really cracking. All cement cracks, but with rebar or wire properly installed, it doesn't lose it's strength when it cracks.

Eddie

Eddie,
The times I have helped pour concrete, we grab the wire with a hoe and pull it up a little. I saw some wire rebar supports, about 12 inches long and about 3 or 4 inches wide, that look like they could be used to hold up wire mesh also. I already have the wire. Now I need to find a place that sales 20 or 30 foot long rebar.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

I am starting to build my front barn door, Saturday after next. Finally. Should I hang the door frame and add the heavy siding, or should I lay the frame flat on the ground and install the siding. The door is 12x10 feet. It will be a sliding door.
hugs, Brandi

 

[radioman]

I am no means of being an expert at building doors- but I do know squareness is important with doors. Building it on the flat, level surface, squaring it up before siding put on can help greatly in ensuring the squareness. nothing is more frustrating in trying to adjust a door that is slightly out of square to close tightly. Since you have a red beast, it can be used as a crane to lift the heavy doors providing you have attachment points. On the other hand building the door while already hung can greatly improve the chances to make adjustments to any slight out of lean on the barn walls to make it weather tight.

just my 2 cents- I hope I have caused any sleepiness nights

 

[Erik_in_Hoyt]

I'd hang the frame then add siding, unless you have help. (other than the dog)
Hanging the frame will be enough of a chore without the extra weight.

 

[firefighter9208]

Brandi,

I built mine on the ground. Two 6'x10' to cover a 10'x10' opening. 2x4 frame with cross braces. 1/4" plywood on the inside for stiffness. I installed the 26 ga. tin before installing the door.

It was all me and two other "good sized" men could do to lift the doors into the tracks.

It was much easier to get the door square building it on the ground.

If I were to build another one, I would wait about installing the tin until I had the door hung. You do need to go ahead and install the 1/4" plywood on the inside of the frame to keep it from racking when you lift it.

Chris

 

[MarkV]

Brandi, my advice would be to build the frame on the ground and hang it before sheathing because of weight. Even with some help it will be heavy. What I would do though is when you have the frame on the ground and can square it up properly, tack on some temporary diagonal supports on the inside of the door. Once hung you can add your finish material on the outside face to lock it square and remove the inside temporary bracing.

MarkV

 

[bindian]

I am no means of being an expert at building doors- but I do know squareness is important with doors. Building it on the flat, level surface, squaring it up before siding put on can help greatly in ensuring the squareness. nothing is more frustrating in trying to adjust a door that is slightly out of square to close tightly. Since you have a red beast, it can be used as a crane to lift the heavy doors providing you have attachment points. On the other hand building the door while already hung can greatly improve the chances to make adjustments to any slight out of lean on the barn walls to make it weather tight.

just my 2 cents- I hope I have caused any sleepiness nights

Radioman,
I plan on building the door frame with corner angles braces and corner splice plates. Before I install the corner splice plates, I am going to install eyebolts and attach turn buckles and install bracing wire to make a big X so I can adjust the turn buckles to have a square door forever. I can use the Big RED Beast to hang the door, but I think I will decide to sheet the door installed or laying down after I handle the door frame by itself to get a "feel" for which way to go.
You didn't cause any sleepless nights..........I work nights!
hugs, Brandi