2520 3 pt hitch arms rubbing - any alternatives?

[2305JD]

Hi everyone,

I like many others have the joy of dealings with the 3 pt hitch arms rubbing my R4's n my 2520 that I just got a few weeks ago. I love the tractor but that part is horrible.

I have tried with my local dealer who is being a complete jerk and not willing to help at all. I even brought the tractor there and he told me the turnbuckles have to be adjusted and if they did it they would charge me.

My tires are already in the wide position and I have an iMatch so I don't see anything fixing the problem other than 2720 arms. I really dont want to spend $810 to buy them.

Does anyone know if any other arms of an older tractor would work that might not cost so much?

Thanks

 

[ChuckinNH]

It seems to me that I remember reading that JD had a policy that in essence said that if you could not adjust your arms so they didn't rub they would replace them with the 2720 style arms. Do a search on this, or get ahold of your JD area /district rep. There is no reason you should have to put up with this when a fix is available.

 

[sal64]

hello i think i read a quicktach mite give u more room or weel extentions.

 

[Danny Faust]

I had the same problem with my 2520. I took the arms off and took them to my dealer to show him the rub marks. He claimed that mine was the first he had heard of it. They did order me a set that has the bend to prevent the rubbing. It took a little talking and showing, but they replaced mine for free. I just had to do the removal and installion which was no big deal.

 

[Deadman]

Get a JD I match, and relocate the arm locations on the I match, and they NEVER EVER rub. People just won't listen when i say this. It took a few dollars in pins to change it, but its well worth it. I'll try to get a pic tomorrow, because people are making themselves miserable by fighting with their JD dealers about this. Its literally a 1 beer job.

You want the 3 pt arms located inside the I match, instead of on the outside of it, this makes the arms narrower, and they clear my R4's with GIANT double cross-bar V-Bar chains, and never ever touch.

 

[hanson1999]

i would find a decent dealer to take care of your problems. you shouldn't have to "rig" your imatch to make the arms not rub.....they sell the imatch to fit the tractor....on that new of a tractor they should make it right.

I went through this when i got my 2520 and the dealer ordered the arms before i ever left the place with the tractor. They showed up a few days later and put them on myself at home.

If the loader brackets were to wide for your tractor frame would you put a bunch of washers behind it or make the dealer order the right frame??? Its the same principal on the 3 point. Fix it right and then your done.

 

[2305JD]

Get a JD I match, and relocate the arm locations on the I match, and they NEVER EVER rub. People just won't listen when i say this. It took a few dollars in pins to change it, but its well worth it. I'll try to get a pic tomorrow, because people are making themselves miserable by fighting with their JD dealers about this. Its literally a 1 beer job.

You want the 3 pt arms located inside the I match, instead of on the outside of it, this makes the arms narrower, and they clear my R4's with GIANT double cross-bar V-Bar chains, and never ever touch.

I do have an iMatch on there and it does drive me crazy that it rubs. I have never looked at putting the arms inside the imatch. A pic would be great.

I have written off this dealer who is 5 minutes from my home and am trying the next one about 30 minutes away. They seem willing to help because they have a 2520 with imatch at their store and it rubs so they are contacting Deere to try and resolve.

Very poor handling of the situation from John Deere on this problem...

 

[brian22]

I had the same problem with my 2720...and they flipped the tires around...that fixed the problem and gave the tractor a wider stance..they did give me some grief at first ... then I talked to the owner and he took care of it for an easy fix...the service manager tryed charging me 300 to fix it.. I skipped him talked to the owner and now the tractor is perfect

 

[Deadman]

I didn't get any pics, sorry.
IF someone has a pic of a 2520 with a I match mounted normally, I think i can tell you exactly how I did mine. Its not rocket science, and its not "rigged" either. Its simply moving the mount point "IN", to clearance the tires more.

Flipping my rear wheels did nearly nothing for a width gain, like maybe a 1/2 inch or something tiny. The tires still rubbed with them flipped, so thats why I did this. I did this long before they came out with new arms, so it was the only solution at the time.

 

[Runner]

Here's a pic of the iMatch with the (new style) arms mounted normally. Old arms are below for comparison.

 

[AKKubota]

Get the newer style arms from your dealer. They will absolutely replace them at no charge. I, like many others have been through this. There are the proper part numbers and tech bulletin references posted by others from TBN.

My dealer was also very resistant at first - until I brought in the references from TBN. They still said no, but boom - when I picked up the machine after I got a snow blower installed it had the new arms on.

I too have the I-Match, tried washers, resetting the wheels etc, etc, etc. Even if you can "rig" something up - your machine will function so much better with the redesigned arms - you owe it to the tractor gods to do it.

 

[Deadman]

Here's a pic of the iMatch with the (new style) arms mounted normally. Old arms are below for comparison.

OK, for my solution, look at the pic (hope I copied it here).
See how this pic shows the 3 point arms mounted to the OUTSIDE of the I-match! Now, that pin that the 3 point arms are mounted to......Take that out, and put the end of the 3 point arm INSIDE of the 2 plates on the imatch. So, basically pull the pin and put the arms into the I match (not on the complete inner side of the I match, rather in between its layers).
Then put a proper pin back thru it, and Problem-Solved! Its really that easy. That moves the rear of the 3 point arms in about 2 inches on each side, so they now clear the tires with ease (even with HUGE tire chains on).

If anyone needs more clarification, ask away.
I know I had to get a different style pin to mount the arms this way, so it does require a few dollars in pins. They were like a pin with a steel plate welded on them or something if I remember.

Mine has been like this for 2 years now, and works great.

 

[tomd999]

Hiya,

If you do a search on the topic I posted a while ago "Calling all 2520 owners" you will find Phone #'s to call, DTAC #'s and some details about the process of getting replacements.

Tom

 

[jenkinsph]

OK, for my solution, look at the pic (hope I copied it here).
See how this pic shows the 3 point arms mounted to the OUTSIDE of the I-match! Now, that pin that the 3 point arms are mounted to......Take that out, and put the end of the 3 point arm INSIDE of the 2 plates on the imatch. So, basically pull the pin and put the arms into the I match (not on the complete inner side of the I match, rather in between its layers).
Then put a proper pin back thru it, and Problem-Solved! Its really that easy. That moves the rear of the 3 point arms in about 2 inches on each side, so they now clear the tires with ease (even with HUGE tire chains on).

If anyone needs more clarification, ask away.
I know I had to get a different style pin to mount the arms this way, so it does require a few dollars in pins. They were like a pin with a steel plate welded on them or something if I remember.

Mine has been like this for 2 years now, and works great.

I understand what you are saying (I think) but what you are describing is the normal method for hooking up to an I Match. From what I can see in the picture it is pinned into the center slots. Never seen anyone pin on an I Match outboard with regular link pins.


Steve

 

[Deadman]

I just went and actually looked at me, so I could remember what I did.

I looked, and I mounted mine on the INSIDE of the Imatch, not in the slot. I originally had them on the outside, and they rubbed alot.
I have 3-4 inches on each side now, so I'm not sure why you guys are having problems. I've got a pic on my camera phone.
I'll try to grab it here...........

 

[Deadman]

I ran those chains all winter last year, and they never once touched my 3 pt arms, because there is not a scrape on them at all. They don't even get close.
Are you guys actually adjusting your turnbuckles, so the arms are centered, and don't just slop all around? Mine are dead center, and are loose enough that the I match can move about 1/2 inch from side to side.
It takes 5 minutes to adjust them, but with the Imatch you never really need to readjust them ever again.

 

[jenkinsph]

I just went and actually looked at me, so I could remember what I did.

I looked, and I mounted mine on the INSIDE of the Imatch, not in the slot. I originally had them on the outside, and they rubbed alot.
I have 3-4 inches on each side now, so I'm not sure why you guys are having problems. I've got a pic on my camera phone.
I'll try to grab it here...........

Well if you are going to attach the pins in that manner I hope you have fitted the inside of the box tubing with bushings to leep from deforming and collapsing it.

I have a 4520 without this particular issue but for the sake of argument what if you need to attach an implement that is not I Match and the tire rubbing issue prevails? So I would still say get the updated arms to resolve the problem. This was an obvious mistake on Deeres' part and not much point in defending it.


Steve

 

[Deadman]

You betcha, I ground down a bushing so it was the perfect length and slipped it in the closed section of the Imatch, so the metal is supported, and then torqued the pins down. Its as strong or stronger than it was before.

So, WHAT attachments are going to make the arms hit the tires? They really DON'T hit them with NON-Imatch implements. They are very close, but they are still clear on both sides if you tighten the turn buckles. I would not be able to run the tire chains, but this issue is getting so blown out of proportion, its getting hilarious. I can't believe how many people act like the sky is falling. I fixed mine in like an half hour, and never looked back. Some people have called dealers many many times, and are arguing with them, and have wasted 10x as much time as me, and their problems are still not solved. I just took it into my own hands and fixed it myself.

All my attachments that are non-Imatch, I take and "Make them" Imatch compatible.

I'm not here to stand up for JD by any means, but I'm here to show that a little bit of positive effort goes alot farther than a whole bunch of wasted effort (on phone with dealer). My dealer is an hour away, and I REFUSED to haul my tractor in the road salt to have them look at it, so thats the main reason I fixed this myself. It was in January, and would be 4 months till the roads were bare. My baby will NEVER see road salt if I have my way!

Anyway, i hope this at least helps someone get theirs fixed, and we can all learn that its an option that the consumer can chose for a simple fix.

 

[jenkinsph]

Deadman,

I agree about converting to I Match, usually it is a simple fix. Any implements I build are I Match or drawn. Hands on approach is a good way to go, I use it often. I also agree that computers and cell phones are not going to solve all problems and yes there are lots of people who are fearful of trying things on their own and want to talk with someone else about them.


TBN can be a great resource to learn from though and it is not uncommmon for me to do a little research on a problem in a particular thread. Helps me learn something new. I have learned from quite a few other posters here as well.



Steve

 

[Deadman]

Just want to bring this back up to the top, so people can be aware of the easy fix...........
Hope it helps someone.