B series Alternator Upgrade...

Firefighter Kubota · Nov 10, 2009

tommu56 said:
Glad you found the problem
With the prints it would be easier to help you trouble shoot the problem other wise we are guessing.

tom

Prints? Do you mean pictures? And, no in this case they would not helped.

Firefighter Kubota · Nov 10, 2009

DGS said:
An old pro told me to never overlook the obvious
I would not have looked there as it was original wiring wasn't it?
Regards
DGS

Correct it was NEW kubota wiring harness w/ shrink wrap on the terminal connector...
I was about to go Hari Kari on the trractor and kubota when I gave one last effort on checking things over...

radioman · Nov 10, 2009

wow! a simple wiring issue. I would have gone nuts too. I am you actually found the problem and its pretty simple thing. I am just surprised that you replaced the alt 3 times and not the wiring or what that ifo left out too ?

Anyway, congrats on getting it fixed. Perhaps a nice letter to kubota who made the wiring would be in order

. you might get a free hat or something out of of it

.

charlz · Nov 10, 2009

Slightly off the original topic but...

I have an older b7100 that has a really wimpy dynamo. I notice that this alternator mounts approximately where I have a belt tensioner mounted on my tractor. Assuming you could fab a bracket to provide tension and that an alternator would fit... it there any reason to NOT take off the old belt tensioner and put an alternator in its place?

LHoyer · Nov 10, 2009

I've been thinking of doing this to my 7100 also. Anyone tried this?

Firefighter Kubota · Nov 10, 2009

charlz said:
Slightly off the original topic but...

I have an older b7100 that has a really wimpy dynamo. I notice that this alternator mounts approximately where I have a belt tensioner mounted on my tractor. Assuming you could fab a bracket to provide tension and that an alternator would fit... it there any reason to NOT take off the old belt tensioner and put an alternator in its place?

Its not the Alternator that is the issue...Its the wiring harness.

The dyno has a separate rectifier/regulator (under the dash on the 7510) the Ant has is own built in regulator, and there is a new replacement relay that gets installed... Part of the old wire harness, get abandoned.

It can be done..Escavader did his own, but I think he wished he had just bought the kit...

Have you checked with your dealer? You need to go thru sales or service dept for a kit from Kubots whole goods department.....

The new alternator is great, worth the $180 and the aggrevation, now thats its working!! rear work lights, new front lights, strobe...probably a 12v heater once my enclosure is built!! Pictures to follow!!!

escavader · Nov 10, 2009

Firefighter Kubota said:
Its not the Alternator that is the issue...Its the wiring harness.

The dyno has a separate rectifier/regulator (under the dash on the 7510) the Ant has is own built in regulator, and there is a new replacement relay that gets installed... Part of the old wire harness, get abandoned.

It can be done..Escavader did his own, but I think he wished he had just bought the kit...

no mine WAS the kit.Igot it through the dealerMy problem was a faulty fuse that showed continuity and juice would pass through[until it wiggled]After a long headache the service guy from KUBOTA and i stumbled on it by wiggling the wire harness while he kept his tester on the battery.We both had checked the fuse ,it tested out fine.When you took it out and shook it it rattled.Makes me wonder who the clowns are that make up these kits.

alan

ibnxe · Nov 10, 2009

Is the alternator supplied in the kit, the same Hitachi unit that others are getting from other sources? Does it have the internal regulator? Are there any markings on the unit?

Good thing you caught the problem. Probing the B+ terminal of the alternator would have caught it right away... should have full battery voltage all the time.

Firefighter Kubota · Nov 11, 2009

ibnxe said:
Is the alternator supplied in the kit, the same Hitachi unit that others are getting from other sources? Does it have the internal regulator? Are there any markings on the unit?

Good thing you caught the problem. Probing the B+ terminal of the alternator would have caught it right away... should have full battery voltage all the time.

Yes the alternator is in the kit...

Its a DENSO alternator
16241-64012

LHoyer · Nov 11, 2009

I was referring (and I'm sure Charlz is too) to an upgrade to a B7100 to replace the dynamo. Thanks for your help.

nostep · Nov 11, 2009

I was looking at adding an alternator to my B6100. The Kubota supplied Denso would work well. It is very close to fitting in place of the idler. Problem is the side panel and possibly a bit of the hood would have to be bumped out (cut/welded/etc). Only needs about an inch more :-( So for now, I'm going to stick to the whole 7 Amps or so from the Dynamo :-(

LHoyer · Nov 11, 2009

I figured there would have to be some mods to the side panel. Will wait and see what the other replies will be. Thanks

Kubota 2350 · Nov 11, 2009

nostep said:
I'm going to stick to the whole 7 Amps or so from the Dynamo :-(

WOW, is that all the dynamo puts out for power?
Wonder what Kubota was thinking when they put this thing on these tractors.

I looked at the 7510 before I bought my 2350, and I remember that dynamo under the hood, and wondered then what were they thinking.

ibnxe · Nov 11, 2009

The small gray dynamo, that comes on most of these tractors, is rated at 15 amps. To get this, the engine would need to be above idle speed.

charlz · Nov 12, 2009

ibnxe said:
The small gray dynamo, that comes on most of these tractors, is rated at 15 amps. To get this, the engine would need to be above idle speed.

The 1970's era b5100/6100/7100's are rated at 90 watts.... which is 7.5 amps at 12vdc.... 30+ years ago when new. You can run the headlights and the flashers and that's about it unless you want to have to put it on a battery charger every time

I would like to install better headlights/worklights so I may have to study this a bit

RobertN · Nov 13, 2009

There is not much to run on a diesel. Everything, except the glowplugs, headlights, hazzards, is mechanical. The lights on these tractors are pretty low power. No need for big electricity, to run a small set of lights. Unless you add more...

Kubota 2350 said:
WOW, is that all the dynamo puts out for power?
Wonder what Kubota was thinking when they put this thing on these tractors.

I looked at the 7510 before I bought my 2350, and I remember that dynamo under the hood, and wondered then what were they thinking.

RobertN · Nov 13, 2009

What about a small alternator from a compact Chevy? Using a 1-wire alternator from a Chevy/GM has long been a trick on old Jeeps, that had wimpy alternators.

Might be worth a trip to a "pick-n-pull" wrecker yard to poke around a bit...

I know space is tight; my B8200 has that tiny little dyno on it too(although book says alternator...???)

nostep said:
I was looking at adding an alternator to my B6100. The Kubota supplied Denso would work well. It is very close to fitting in place of the idler. Problem is the side panel and possibly a bit of the hood would have to be bumped out (cut/welded/etc). Only needs about an inch more :-( So for now, I'm going to stick to the whole 7 Amps or so from the Dynamo :-(

Machold · Nov 27, 2009

As I understand it, my B3030 puts out 14.5 amps via the dyno. What other advantages, besides more lights, can there be by switching to the 40 amp alternator? Will exisitng systems work better, for example? etc. thnx

Firefighter Kubota · Nov 28, 2009

Machold said:
As I understand it, my B3030 puts out 14.5 amps via the dyno. What other advantages, besides more lights, can there be by switching to the 40 amp alternator? Will exisitng systems work better, for example? etc. thnx

NOPE, Its all about the added Amps = More power available. Average 55 watt lamp = 6 amps. I have 2 forward and 2 rear...= 24 amps. = slowly draining battery if the dyno was left in place...= eventually dead battery while working, as well as the extra strain of completely draining and charging the battery..

Not to mention the strobe lamp.= 1 amp, Future cab heater, 10 amps...

12 volt power point for running what ever. air compressor...radio...coffee mug heater

.....etc..

I like to have the extra power...

escavader · Nov 28, 2009

My botas lit up like a christmas tree at night .TWO forward 55s to rear 55s,strobe light on top, heater fan,circulating fan,a row of led toggle switches,tractor flashersetc etc.
no way could even come close to this with the dyno.WILL existing system work better?It will if your drawing too much,lights will be dimmer once you draw the battery down below normal voltage.Iknow this because i use to run these lights with the dyno,then let the tractor run to charge it back up.Lights werent as bright at 10-11 volts,as they are with 14

ALAN