Counter Weight
- Thread starter Fritzy
- Start date
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Smalljobs
Gold Member
I made one with a Rubbermaid barrel and 6-7 bags of Sakrete. I also included a receiver hitch. Can send you photos if you want.
Couple of Achers
Gold Member
That would depend on a number of things. Size of your tractor being one of the biggest factors. Also, what kind of things you do with your tractor. Loader work for example would require more rear weight than you would need for a front mounted snowblower. Usually a good place to start is with the owners manual. Most of the time they will have a chart specifying max loads and capacities of the 3pt. If you can tell us a little more about your tractor, then there are probably others here that have a similar model and can help you out.
i've got one in mind i haven't started yet, but might give you some ideas
i was walking thru my local machine shop's scrap yard and found a pc of 3" thick X 17" X 14" steel - rough torch on two sides - didn't cost me a thing, and it weighs 157 lbs - i'm going to clean it up some cutting the two rough sides and reducing to approx 15 X 12 but figure i'll still have 120+ lbs in wgt
going to mount it behind transaxle vertically, hinged at the bottom end on two 3/4" pins, but make it so it would normally stay in vertical position, and if i needed more wgt, i can swing top end down to create a shelf to put more wgt on top
doubt i'll need it but in case, it'll be ready
i was walking thru my local machine shop's scrap yard and found a pc of 3" thick X 17" X 14" steel - rough torch on two sides - didn't cost me a thing, and it weighs 157 lbs - i'm going to clean it up some cutting the two rough sides and reducing to approx 15 X 12 but figure i'll still have 120+ lbs in wgt
going to mount it behind transaxle vertically, hinged at the bottom end on two 3/4" pins, but make it so it would normally stay in vertical position, and if i needed more wgt, i can swing top end down to create a shelf to put more wgt on top
doubt i'll need it but in case, it'll be ready
Lunk
Platinum Member
Depending upon why you need it - As much as it takes / tractor 3 pth can lift.
I plow snow with my FEL, and for added stability / traction, I've strapped 2-350# concrete blocks, and 4-70# tubes of sand on my 550# box blade. My snow bucket holds 31 cf struck, and weighs just over 600# empty. It'll move a lot of snow, both in weight and volume.
Combined with filled rears, I have about 2200# of rear ballast. I've never experienced any "pucker factor" when using the FEL when kitted out as such.
Would I run this way while working soft ground??? Heck no!
When it's soft, I generally just have an implement, whether cutter or box-blade, attached at all times.
Good Luck!
Lunk
I plow snow with my FEL, and for added stability / traction, I've strapped 2-350# concrete blocks, and 4-70# tubes of sand on my 550# box blade. My snow bucket holds 31 cf struck, and weighs just over 600# empty. It'll move a lot of snow, both in weight and volume.
Combined with filled rears, I have about 2200# of rear ballast. I've never experienced any "pucker factor" when using the FEL when kitted out as such.
Would I run this way while working soft ground??? Heck no!
When it's soft, I generally just have an implement, whether cutter or box-blade, attached at all times.
Good Luck!
Lunk
I have a 3030 cab and I built some front forks that work great. When I was lifting the lawn tractor to store it for the winter the weight was almost to much and I need a counter weight. I have a Box Blade that I normally use but I don't have room in the Shed to turn around with it on. So I was just wondering how much weight should I shoot for and does anyone have a cheap and dirty idea for a counter weight. Thanks alot for your reply
Couple of Achers
Gold Member
If turn around space is an issue then nothing would beat loaded tires since they would add no length to your rig. As far as cheap and dirty goes, this is about as cheap and dirty as you can get. I was able to find over 400lbs of used weights for $45 on Craigslist and at garage sales. One other thing you might want to try is to use the search feature on this site and search for "ballast" or "counter weight". I know it has been discussed before and it always amazes me on all the different ideas people come up with.
Attachments
vinzuki
New member
Here are some pictures of a fast attach counter weight I made for my kubota B2920. It is about a 30 gallon barrel filled with concrete,weighs about 500#. I cut out the center and fabed a notch that a standared draw bar with holes fits into. Just back into the cut out and lift,close draft control,put in 1 safety bolt and your ready to go. Takes about 30 seconds.
Blue plastic 55 gallon drum, free
Longest draw bar I could find, $25.00
1000 lbs concrete, $65.00
1-1/2" x 6ft long galv pipe, bent like a hockey stick for top link, free
A piece of 3/8" chain so I can lift bucket with loader if needed, free
Bunch of scrap tire chains to act like rebar, free
Everything all tied to the draw bar.
Result is about 1100 lbs of counter weight.
Longest draw bar I could find, $25.00
1000 lbs concrete, $65.00
1-1/2" x 6ft long galv pipe, bent like a hockey stick for top link, free
A piece of 3/8" chain so I can lift bucket with loader if needed, free
Bunch of scrap tire chains to act like rebar, free
Everything all tied to the draw bar.
Result is about 1100 lbs of counter weight.
jb62901
Gold Member
I bought this box a week ago for $25 from A Guy that got it new with his tractor two years ago. He said it had been used two times and had no use for it. Won't tell Ya what color it was but a $3 can of paint and 3/4 full of rocks what a inprovement in FEL work.
http://i34.tinypic.com/21e6g79.jpg
http://i34.tinypic.com/21e6g79.jpg
Well, I got some old steel bar (free)2" x 3" that that I cut into 2' lengths and I am going to make up a steel box and stack the bars in the box. I weighed one bar and I have a total weight of 400 lbs. Do you think that will be enough weight or sohould I be shooting for a 1000lb like the barrels. I wish I had seen the barrel before I started to cut up the steel bar, the barrel looks great.
Mighty Dodge
Platinum Member
Lunk
Platinum Member
I bet that makes a fine compactor of sorts!
I'd like something like that for chasing moles...
Last edited:
JB4310
Super Member
I know what color it was
That was a great deal for $25. I would have bought it without a 2nd thought just to have another one. I filled mine with concrete but it would be nice to have an empty one for other chores.Attachments
kiotidk45SE
Member
How much do you reckon that weighs?
Page2
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Nov 2, 2007
- Messages
- 77
- Location
- Central Illinois
- Tractor
- Kubota B2100, Farmall "Red" Cub, IH B414, Allis Chalmers WC, Cat D2
Made one just about like this. Instead of the expense of a drawbar, I just drilled holes in the side and mounted 3 point pins, then welded scrap angle across the pins to connect them. Then welded angle iron vertically for the top link to attach to. I welded on rebar for support to the verticle pieces, and filled it with concrete.
Mighty Dodge
Platinum Member
Buggs67
Veteran Member
I'm building mine from a 55 gal blue barrel filled with concrete and rocks. Shooting for 500#. Using 1" pipe filled with cement for the lift pins and gonna build in a hitch. Angle iron linked to lift pin for top link connection. Maybe a dumb question, how much does a 80# bag of concrete weigh after mixing/curing? Probably 85# or so?
George2615
Super Member
I have 2 rear ballast weights. The first is made from a 55 gallon plastic barrel with 50# of steel for the framework then filled 3/4 full with 10 - 80# bags of redimix cement. I estimate it about 850#.
I just made my second weight from a safe I had hanging around the garage that I tried selling but had no takers. The safe is about 40x40x40 and weighs over 1200 lb. It was used in a Doctors office as a data / records storage safe. I keep extra chains and tools in the safe while using it. I welded on some 3x3x1/2" thick angle and then drilled through to the inside and bolted the angle. The weight is in the fire rated cement sandwiched between the inner and outer skins.
I just made my second weight from a safe I had hanging around the garage that I tried selling but had no takers. The safe is about 40x40x40 and weighs over 1200 lb. It was used in a Doctors office as a data / records storage safe. I keep extra chains and tools in the safe while using it. I welded on some 3x3x1/2" thick angle and then drilled through to the inside and bolted the angle. The weight is in the fire rated cement sandwiched between the inner and outer skins.
Attachments
George2615
Super Member
Just posted mine but to answer your question I figured just 80# per bag X 10 bags plus the steel I used. I figure 6 - 80 lb. bags plus the steel you use will get you close or a little over 500 lb. I didn't count the water weight. My bar for the lift pins is a 1" solid bar from a barbell weight set. I used 3/16"thick 1 1/2"x2" rectangle tubing and 1/4" x 3" flat steel. Also added a lifting loop on top to move it around with the loader if needed.
