Looking for advice on building barn doors

[2manyrocks]

Switch to polycarbonate and that should end the window breaking.

My concern about the water defector is trapping water against the t1-11 and causing it to rot prematurely. Can you pop a sheet or two loose and install metal flashing or did you nail it so well that it ain't coming loose?

Be careful trying to position a heavy door with your loader close to the barn. Very easy to tear up a door or the barn.

 

[bugstruck]

Guilty. That's where I found the a-cad's for the one's I liked. They want something like $390.00 /pair. I"ve wrapped up a total of $29.00/pair. Their track is pricey, I sourced mine for less than $20.00 per 12 ft.

That's an excellent price, actually better than excellent. Did you share your source on that hardware in this thread? If you really want to see pricey try Hafele Architectural. I'm doing a 3/6 x 9/2 interior pair right now and that's over $1,100.00 wholesale just for the track, trollleys, guides, and stops. Glides like a good ski on fresh powder and it should when you pay for that level of precision. Virtually effortless to operate. Stopping it is where the attention is needed on a biparting set. I may sell it when they insist on that level of qualilty but I'm too cheap to buy it guaranteed.

 

[Lloyd_E]

2manyrocks

Under the board and batten - the barn is double boarded in - I flashed the entire width of the barn above the doors. You can see a bit of the white flashing either side of the wood reflector that covers the track...

You're right - can not have enough flashing and or caulking and maintenance. My good buddy thinks every building should have at least a 2' overhang!!!!


lloyd

PS: I think I answered your question that was directed to jcaron!!!! !!!

 

[2manyrocks]

You stick a recip saw blade in between the framing and the T1-11 and carefully cut the nails to insert metal flashing.

 

[PILOON]

Few years back I built a 240 ft arena that needed 12 door pannels.

I went to the truss manufacturer and had him make me 6 ft X 10ft square trusses for the door pannels.

Used the regular siding to cover the exterior and 1/2" ply for the interior.
Had the siding guys form 'U' channels to cap the ends and tops for a finished look.

The trusses (door frames) used the roof truss plates to attach all the joints making for a real strong door frame. I had the tops and bottoms made from 2 X 6 stock with the balance of the structure in 2 X 3 stock.

Also inserted 1 1/2 foam in the 'truss' spaces for some insulation value.

All told it was a very cost effective method of fabbing the door pannels.
Used standard Stanley tracks with 2 roller assy per pannel.



Worked out real great, tough, rigid and not heavy.

 

[Lloyd_E]

Piloon,

Very creative and resourceful approach....

lloyd

 

[riptides]

I use a standard sheet of plywood on my barn doors. I dress it out on the edges and down the middle with 2X6X8's pressure treated outside. On the inside I use standard pine. This gives it the thickness to be hung on sliders.
Each "panel" door is pretty light. I have four of them. Hung myself, easily adjusted, and freshly painted to guard against the weather.

 

[rvaitor]

I use a standard sheet of plywood on my barn doors. I dress it out on the edges and down the middle with 2X6X8's pressure treated outside. On the inside I use standard pine. This gives it the thickness to be hung on sliders.
Each "panel" door is pretty light. I have four of them. Hung myself, easily adjusted, and freshly painted to guard against the weather.

I'm also interested in building some doors and have been following this thread. How thick do the doors end up being. 2x6 on each side of a sheet of plywood seems like about 4.5 to 5 inches thick -- - is that right?

 

[BungeeII]

For those that might care...

The doors on our old gambrel style dairy barn are made of 1-by's.

The face of the door is tongue-and-groove 1x10-ish.
The door is reinforced on the backside with additional 1x's run horizontally. Along the bottom about 28", another 12" at the middle, and then another 18" or so along the top.

There is a 2" wide strip of trim on the left and right edges (sides) of the door that create a finished profile.

Keep in mind this is old lumber and truly an inch+ thick.

 

[jcaron2]

I'm also interested in building some doors and have been following this thread. How thick do the doors end up being. 2x6 on each side of a sheet of plywood seems like about 4.5 to 5 inches thick -- - is that right?

I think for the most part people use planed lumber, meaning that a 2x6 is only 1.5" thick. So two 2x6's sandwiching a piece of plywood would be more like 3.5-3.75" thick.

For what it's worth, I've been using 5/4" (which is actually planed to 1" thick) PT deck boards for the outside frame and crossbuck, along with 5/8" T1-11. This, along with the 2-by inside frame, results in a total door thickness of 3 1/8".

They're not light - I'm guessing a single 6'x10' door weighs around 350 lbs. They'll probably be a bit lighter once all the PT wood dries out. I have yet to hang them; I'm hoping to paint them first but the weather hasn't exactly been conducive to that.

Here's a picture of the backside of one of the doors, leaning on its side in the aisleway of my barn, so you can see what the inside frame looks like:

Here's a second door in the process of being built. The inside frame is done, and T1-11 has been applied.

Next I add 2x4's (ripped down to 2 1/8") to the sides so that the front edge is flush with the front of the T1-11.

Then I add the 5/4x6 exterior frame:

The bottom 2" of the door is only 1.5" thick to provide a "track" for the stay rollers.

Next come the crossbucks:

There's one last piece that I have yet to do, which is a 2x4 (actually 1.5x3.125) across the top of the entire door. This will help to tie everything together and further stiffen the top of the door.