Converted 2520 wannabe 20amp alternator to a real 45amp

[2305JD]

Hi folks,

One of my tasks in getting my 2520 ready for snow with the new Jodale Perry cab was converting the factory 20 amp alternator with external voltage regulator, safety, relay, and diode to a real 45 amp alternator with all that stuff built in. It is similar to one you would see in a car. If I ever have a problem with it in the future it's a 10 minute job to switch it.

It was hours this time as I had to partially jack the cab off the tractor just to remove the control panel with dash and the lower shroud where the ignition key, parking, etc... are found.

It was nerve racking but not that bad. A while back I communicated with labrat on this forumn adn got great pointers, thanks... Recently I purchased the shop manual for the 2520 and it had an amazing electrical schematic in it showing the original set up like mine (2007) and the new set up with the same type of alternator I installed becasue they started using them on the 2008 2520's.

Basically, you have to eliminate the regulator, safety, relay and diode as the work in sync with the OEM 20 amp and redirect the switched power feed from the regulator into the ignition port on the alt. and run another switched power feed originally from the safety relay through the dash "idiot" iight and back to the light port on the alt. Finally, I made up a heavy duty power feed from the starter stud to the power stud on the alt. I put an inline fuse holder in along the way that can be seen in the pics.

Now if I could just get my cab heater to work properlly, I'd be ready for snow.


Thanks,

Mario

 

[2305JD]

Hi folks,

One of my tasks in getting my 2520 ready for snow with the new Jodale Perry cab was converting the factory 20 amp alternator with external voltage regulator, safety, relay, and diode to a real 45 amp alternator with all that stuff built in. It is similar to one you would see in a car. If I ever have a problem with it in the future it's a 10 minute job to switch it.

It was hours this time as I had to partially jack the cab off the tractor just to remove the control panel with dash and the lower shroud where the ignition key, parking, etc... are found.

It was nerve racking but not that bad. A while back I communicated with labrat on this forumn adn got great pointers, thanks... Recently I purchased the shop manual for the 2520 and it had an amazing electrical schematic in it showing the original set up like mine (2007) and the new set up with the same type of alternator I installed becasue they started using them on the 2008 2520's.

Basically, you have to eliminate the regulator, safety, relay and diode as the work in sync with the OEM 20 amp and redirect the switched power feed from the regulator into the ignition port on the alt. and run another switched power feed originally from the safety relay through the dash "idiot" iight and back to the light port on the alt. Finally, I made up a heavy duty power feed from the starter stud to the power stud on the alt. I put an inline fuse holder in along the way that can be seen in the pics.

Now if I could just get my cab heater to work properlly, I'd be ready for snow.


Thanks,

Mario

Sorry, I forgot the best part. The upgrade kit from JD was $600 to make the OEM 20 amp into a 35 amp. I spent $163 on the 45 amp alternator and $30 on fuse holder, fuse, wire and wire lugs for a grand total of $193.

Take Care...

 

[jenkinsph]

Mario,
That is excellent, this should help with lighting alot.

When I purchased my 110tlb in 2005 I ordered the upgraded alternator in anticipation of the cab install. Never regretted it, now the upgrade for it is the standard offering.

 

[kennyd]

Great job, I love it! That is what I am going to do to my 4110 if the stock one goes out.

 

[Henri88]

Sorry, I forgot the best part. The upgrade kit from JD was $600 to make the OEM 20 amp into a 35 amp. I spent $163 on the 45 amp alternator and $30 on fuse holder, fuse, wire and wire lugs for a grand total of $193.

Take Care...

Mario, $193.00! Your killing me.

 

[KennedyDiesel]

Great job, I love it! That is what I am going to do to my 4110 if the stock one goes out.

I don't think it ever will. Even if it does, there is just a single bearing to replace. My 455 lost the bearing and for less than $10 I was rolling again.

I still say these would work good on home made wind generators.

 

[Huskerplowboy]

Nice upgrade. I'd like to do an alternator upgrade so I can run all my cab worklights at the same time. Can you post the part numbers/sources for the stuff you used?

 

[glc24]

When did they switch it to a 40 amp,and why was it a 20 in the first place?

Greg

 

[Henri88]

When did they switch it to a 40 amp,and why was it a 20 in the first place?

Greg

They come standard with a 20 amp. But if you put a cab with the extra heater and lighting, they recommend a 35 amp. alternator. The problem is that the 35 amp. is price about $600.00. The 45 amp. was Mario doing his due diligence and coming up with a system almost $400.00 cheaper.

 

[2305JD]

Nice upgrade. I'd like to do an alternator upgrade so I can run all my cab worklights at the same time. Can you post the part numbers/sources for the stuff you used?

Hi,

I dont have any part numbers but basically what I bought is a 40 amp alternator from a local alternator shop that is similar to the ones John Deere uses in the newer 2520's. It is one that is very similar to ones used in a toyota forklift. If you search this forum for one of my previous posts on alternators from a couple of months ago you will see a picture that someone posted of the actual alternator in the new 2520. I used that pic and took the Nippendenso part number from it and the local guys sourced me basically the same alternator.

Other than that it was very minor parts like a few feet of wire and a fuse holder with fuse.

What I had that made it possible was the service manual which showed my current layout with the "wannabe" alternator as well as the layout for the newer 2520's so I basically eliminated the external regulator, diode and safety relay and wired it like the new ones are.

Pay really close attention to the manual and make sure you have the proper layout before you start connecting wires.

Overall it was very nerve racking but I took my time and it wasnt that bad. It took more time to rip apart the dash and find the wires than the actual hook up. It's only a few wires your dealing with. The whole job took me about 6 hours from start to finish as I had to partially remove the cab off the tractor just to get the dash ond plastic shroud off.

The beauty is that if you ever need to change the alternator in the future after doing this upgrade it's a simple 5 minute job to remove it.

Good Luck...

 

[glc24]

They come standard with a 20 amp

My 2009/2010 2520 comes standard with 40 amp alternator.
I was just wondering why it ever was a 20.

Greg

 

[2305JD]

My 2009/2010 2520 comes standard with 40 amp alternator.
I was just wondering why it ever was a 20.

Greg

Good question. Mine is a 2007 and it had a 20 amp. Half way through 2008 they switched to 40 amp...

Mario

 

[kennyd]

Maybe they felt guilty charging so much for the upgrade?

Yeah right...who knows

 

[Henri88]

My 2009/2010 2520 comes standard with 40 amp alternator.
I was just wondering why it ever was a 20.

Greg

Sorry guys, my mistake. Did not know that the 40 amp was now standard on the 2520. In the 2009 ''purchasing guide'' book, it shows the 2305,2320 and the 2520 with a standard 20 amp alternator. Is it possible that they automatically upgrade yours because you have added some option, such as extra lights. If not, it is a good thing, because there is not much extra option you can add with 20 amp. It is also possible that they did not upgrade there guide book.

 

[8934]

Are you using a car 40 amp alternator?

If so you may want to think twice. The design is slightly different, and they make their power at a higher RPM, so you dont really get 40 real amps since diesels are often used at low RPM.

 

[Henri88]

Are you using a car 40 amp alternator?

If so you may want to think twice. The design is slightly different, and they make their power at a higher RPM, so you dont really get 40 real amps since diesels are often used at low RPM.

I don't think that it would be a problem. It is true that a gas engine have a higher red line rpm, but they operate pretty much at the same rpm, (not talking about the tractor trailers) maybe a little more with gas engine, but not enough to make a difference. I could be wrong, but I don't think alternators have to turn at a high rpm to get their full amperage, compare to the old style generator which would not event charge at idle.

 

[glc24]

I could be wrong, but I don't think alternators have to turn at a high rpm to get their full amperage, compare to the old style generator which would not event charge at idle.

I've been told that also,that alternators aren't like the old generators,where the faster they spun,the more current they put out.

Greg

 

[orlo]

Alternators don't have permanent magnets like true 'generators' or magneto's. They have a field that's energized by energy put into it. (You need to put power into an alternator to get power out). The output is proportional to the field power so the more power put into the field of an alternator, the more power comes out. Typically there is a regulator circuit so that based on the output required the field varies. This is a big advantage of an alternator over a fixed/permanent magnet generator. With permanent magnets the torque required to turn a generator is constant. With an alternator the torque required to turn it is proportional to the field energy.

What this boils down to is that alternators are generally more efficient when not using full power. The voltage is proportional to the speed, the amps depend on the field energy I believe. Generally ANY alternator or generator is spec'ed to make the minimum voltage at the lowest anticipated engine speed.

Also, with any auto type engine the alternator/generator when belt driven doesn't necessarily run at the engine speed. It depends on the ratio of the drive (engine) diameter pulley to the accessory pulley. i.e. If my drive pully is 4" and my alternator pully is 4" the alternator will spin at the same RPM as the engine. If the drive pully is 4" and the alternator pully is 6" the alternator will turn at 2/3rds (66%) of the engine RPM. This point being regardless of the minimum operating RPM of the alternator/generator you can always match it to the engine by varying the pully. the exception would be if at max engine RPM you exceed the max safe RPM of the alternator in which case you'd risk mechanically damaging the alternator...

For a direct drive alternator like motorcycles the above isn't true.

 

[2305JD]

Are you using a car 40 amp alternator?

If so you may want to think twice. The design is slightly different, and they make their power at a higher RPM, so you dont really get 40 real amps since diesels are often used at low RPM.

No, I gave them the Nippondenso number off the new 2520 40 amp alternators and they found an alternator from a Toyota forklift and Kubota tractor that was the same.

I have been using it for a few weeks now with front and rear worklights, radio, heater, defrost fan, windshield wiper and have had no issues.

So far so good.

Thanks,

Mario

 

[jimdiesel1]

I came across this alternator, can you tell me which of the 2 terminals is the excitation terminal of the 2 which accept spade connectors?