Headlights PT425

[tracdoc]

OK, if I've used my headlights for a total of 30 minutes since I've had my tractor, I think I'd be exaggerating. Well, when I was putting the PT away tonight, I used my lights and all of a sudden the right one went out. I tapped on it and it went back on, and then it went out again. Tapping again had no effect. I'm trying to figure out whether the bulb simply blew or is something else amiss (faulty ground, blown fuse, etc., etc.). I see only a single wire coming from the lamp housing, and I don't know whether it's fused somewhere and maybe I should be looking for a blown fuse? I don't have a wiring diagram for the PT425, and on 'search' I couldn't find one in archived posts.

Can anyone please help me sort this out? If I do need to replace the lamp, is it the entire unit, or is there some way the lamp comes out of the black plastic housing? Also, if it's the whole enchilada, do I get it from PT or are these available from Tractor Supply or places like that?

Thanks in advance for your assist on this.

 

[MossRoad]

I believe the wire goes from the switch, to the left headlight and then over to the right headlight, but I may be mistaken. Anyhow, the single wire provides + 12V and the ground is accomplished through the bolt that hold the light to the frame of the PT. Loosen the nut that holds the light on and then tighten it again and see if that solves it.

If not, then follow the wire from the lamp and see if the bullet connector that is on the other end is loose, corroded, etc... unplug it and plug it back in again and see if that solves it.

If that does not solve it, swap the bulbs between the housings and see if the problem moves. If it does, the bulb is defective. If the problem does not move, the wiring is still goobered up.

 

[Gravy]

The ground circuit is through the bolt/nut/washer connection. Snug that down first. If that fixes it, plan on wirebrushing/ scraping the connections soon. If it doesn't work, it's probably a bad bulb.

I replaced my stock headlights with skinny HF foglights mounted to the ROPS. The lights don't get blocked so much by the implements. (I've still got the originals if you need parts).

 

[MossRoad]

Oops! I forgot to answer your question about the bulb and housing.

The bulb is replaceable. TSC has them. They and a lot of auto stores also carry an entire housing with bulb that is almost identical. I bought two of them and hung them under my canopy. They work better up there than in the factory location as there is no shadow cast by the FEL arms and attachments that way.

 

[tracdoc]

Thanks much for the input and suggestions, guys. As soon as I have another couple of cups of Joe this morning, I'll head to the shed to see what I can sort out. HOW ARE THE BULBS CONNECTED IN THOSE BLACK PLASTIC HOUSINGS?? I was not able to tell in the semi-dark last night --are they threaded into screw sockets, or do you need to pry them out, or?? If I can swap the bulbs side to side, that will tell me a lot pretty quickly.

Looks like VA DOT is swamped or paralyzed at this point. They still have not plowed our street nor the main secondary road to I-81. Lots of vehicles went off into ditches last evening when the wet road froze hard. My plowed driveway is a sheet of ice due to melting snow runoff which froze hard last night. I'll be getting out the salter today--one of those Precision Prods tag-along broadcast spreaders (Tractor Supply, etc.) that I tow behind the PT. The factory made an extended cable for it, so I can turn it on/off from the op seat. Only problem is that I am shy on salt! Dooohhh!

 

[ponytug]

On my 1445, the housing is a plastic that the bulb snaps into. I bought a pair of replacement housings and bulbs for less than I could buy a replacement bulb.

I wired an SPDT switch, with a center off, instead of the basic switch and then wired a pair of driving lights to the underside of the canopy ahead of the ROPS, giving me lots of light in front for movement, and the option of the factory standard lights for close work, like picking up an attachment.

All the best,

Peter

Thanks much for the input and suggestions, guys. As soon as I have another couple of cups of Joe this morning, I'll head to the shed to see what I can sort out. HOW ARE THE BULBS CONNECTED IN THOSE BLACK PLASTIC HOUSINGS?? I was not able to tell in the semi-dark last night --are they threaded into screw sockets, or do you need to pry them out, or?? If I can swap the bulbs side to side, that will tell me a lot pretty quickly.

Looks like VA DOT is swamped or paralyzed at this point. They still have not plowed our street nor the main secondary road to I-81. Lots of vehicles went off into ditches last evening when the wet road froze hard. My plowed driveway is a sheet of ice due to melting snow runoff which froze hard last night. I'll be getting out the salter today--one of those Precision Prods tag-along broadcast spreaders (Tractor Supply, etc.) that I tow behind the PT. The factory made an extended cable for it, so I can turn it on/off from the op seat. Only problem is that I am shy on salt! Dooohhh!

 

[cqaigy2]

Wow it sounds like you guys are having all kinds of fun.

 

[MossRoad]

... HOW ARE THE BULBS CONNECTED IN THOSE BLACK PLASTIC HOUSINGS?? I was not able to tell in the semi-dark last night --are they threaded into screw sockets, or do you need to pry them out, or?? If I can swap the bulbs side to side, that will tell me a lot pretty quickly.
....

The bulbs are sealed beams. The black plastic housing is kind of like hard rubber. Just slip a small flat bladed screwdriver between the edge of the lens and the rubber housing and pry the whole sealed beam out from the front. As I recall, there are two screw terminals or push on blades directly on the back of the sealed beam. It may help to take the whole assembly inside and set it in front of a heat duct to get it warmed up and soften the rubber to get the sealed beam out easier.

 

[tracdoc]

Thanks Ponytug and MR for the additional info. After I got the info on the black housing from MR, I was going to remove the entire light assy, but found it hard wired to the switch w/ a double crimp connector and little slack. So, I warmed up the housing w/ hair dryer. When it was softened, I was able to pop the case from around the bezel of the bulb. There were 2 screw/blade connectors on the bulb. After I removed the bulb, I checked out the wiring w/ VOM---light switch ON = 12V reading; light switch OFF = 0V. Seems like it's just a bulb issue, so I'm off to AutoZone, etc. to find a replacement for now.

I would like to add lights up top on the ROPS. There was a post by FOURTEEN awhile back { http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/power-trac/34740-pt-425-pros-cons-3.html } on replacing lamps w/ halogen 70 watters, and some concerns by TBNers that there may be too much draw so that the alternator can't keep up a charge on battery. FOURTEEN gave a figure of 360 W max, but I'm not sure how this was determined. Is there a rule of thumb as to how much wattage you can add w/o overtaxing the system on a 425?

 

[J_J]

You are drawing off the battery, so it would depend on the amount of time you use the lights. Some of the Kohler engines have 15 A, and some, I believe 25 amp alternators, and if so E X I = Watts. So 12v X 25a = 300 Watts. If each light is 55 W, two bulbs will draw 110 watts, and if 70 W, two lights will draw 140 Watts, with some amps left to charge the battery.

15 A alternator

12v X 15a = 180 watts.

 

[Gravy]

Thanks Ponytug and MR for the additional info. After I got the info on the black housing from MR, I was going to remove the entire light assy, but found it hard wired to the switch w/ a double crimp connector and little slack. So, I warmed up the housing w/ hair dryer. When it was softened, I was able to pop the case from around the bezel of the bulb. There were 2 screw/blade connectors on the bulb. After I removed the bulb, I checked out the wiring w/ VOM---light switch ON = 12V reading; light switch OFF = 0V. Seems like it's just a bulb issue, so I'm off to AutoZone, etc. to find a replacement for now.

I would like to add lights up top on the ROPS. There was a post by FOURTEEN awhile back { http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/power-trac/34740-pt-425-pros-cons-3.html } on replacing lamps w/ halogen 70 watters, and some concerns by TBNers that there may be too much draw so that the alternator can't keep up a charge on battery. FOURTEEN gave a figure of 360 W max, but I'm not sure how this was determined. Is there a rule of thumb as to how much wattage you can add w/o overtaxing the system on a 425?

If we can manage to get together before Thursday, you can look at my ROPS mounted Harbor Fright fog lights. They are not high powered, but they have been all I need without overloading the charging system. I have the original lights stored away if you need one.

 

[tracdoc]

Thanks for the physics refresher, JJ. I'm hoping that the 2 x 70 still = 140W and that your "170 watts" was a typo----otherwise I need some remedial math...

I guess the piece of info that I need to know or measure is the amperage rating on the Alternator for the PT425 fitted with the Robin EH72 (25hp) engine. The Robin Service Manual for this engine just states: "Multipolar charging coil is provided inside of flywheel. Charging capacity is 12V-15A or 12V-30A". As I am not prepared to dismantle the flywheel cover, etc. to inspect the coil, I was wondering if anyone has this piece of data for the Robin engines in the PT , or is their some way I can measure it myself w/ a VOM?

Thanks again for all the input.

 

[Gravy]

Way back when, JackRobin told me that according to the model number mine has the 30A charging system. Yours probably has the same.

 

[J_J]

Thanks for the physics refresher, JJ. I'm hoping that the 2 x 70 still = 140W and that your "170 watts" was a typo----otherwise I need some remedial math...

I guess the piece of info that I need to know or measure is the amperage rating on the Alternator for the PT425 fitted with the Robin EH72 (25hp) engine. The Robin Service Manual for this engine just states: "Multipolar charging coil is provided inside of flywheel. Charging capacity is 12V-15A or 12V-30A". As I am not prepared to dismantle the flywheel cover, etc. to inspect the coil, I was wondering if anyone has this piece of data for the Robin engines in the PT , or is their some way I can measure it myself w/ a VOM?

Thanks again for all the input.

Sorry about the wattage thing, my calculator messed up. Yea, sure

The only way to check it would be to throw a heavy load on it and see what the charging amps are, but you need an amp meter. A cheap automotive amp meter would work.

 

[woodlandfarms]

I thought I had 30 amps on my Deutz, turned out to be 60. Still....

You might want to consider an LED light. there are some nice ones, and I think they will survive the elements a lot better than the filament lights we have. Maybe Ebay?

here is what I did...

 

[ponytug]

My roof mount lights are the same 55W lights as the original PT lights, so I didn't change the load, just the source (and spread) of the lights.

All of my lights were HF specials.

LEDs are a pricey alternative. You might be better off with a cheap HID lamp, but we are not talking cheap there, either. (Last that I checked ebay had the lowest prices, but don't get your hopes up on quality.)

All the best,

Peter

I thought I had 30 amps on my Deutz, turned out to be 60. Still....

You might want to consider an LED light. there are some nice ones, and I think they will survive the elements a lot better than the filament lights we have. Maybe Ebay?

here is what I did...

 

[woodlandfarms]

Peter, do you know what the amp pull is with HID? I guess I could look it up but hearing it from you seems so much more convincing ;-)

 

[MossRoad]

I think my PT425 has 35W bulbs from the factory. I added two more under the canopy. My Kohler has the 15A charging system. I've never seen a drain on the system with all 4 going at the same time. I would be leery of adding 55W halogens at the same time as the two original 35W bulbs, but they would most likely be fine by themselves. I really like my four 35s on at the same time. The top two shine over the top of the implement and I angle the bottom two down and out to the sides. I get great visibility... so much that I am contemplating removing the one by the joystick and mounting it on the rear somewhere. No rear light on the PT425 from the factory.

 

[cqaigy2]

Sorry about the wattage thing, my calculator messed up. Yea, sure

The only way to check it would be to throw a heavy load on it and see what the charging amps are, but you need an amp meter. A cheap automotive amp meter would work.

Or cheap volt/ohm meter. I=V/R if you know the resistance of your load

 

[cqaigy2]

I am contemplating removing the one by the joystick and mounting it on the rear somewhere. No rear light on the PT425 from the factory.

I like that idea, i don't use the PT much at night, but when we had all the snow last year, i was out at night trying to keep ahead of it and you really don't want to back over the edge of the road.