BX 3PH float position?

[DavidAubke]

I don't know about other models but on the BX the 3PH is controlled in a different way from what I'm familiar with on older machines. I can see no way to make the arms float. When you let go of the control, the hitch height locks in place. When I'm blading the driveway, I feel I must keep my hand on the control all of the time to keep the blade on the ground under its full weight.

Am I missing something? Is there a work-around? I'm going to end up rigging something with a bungee cord or a wedge to keep the control in the "down" position.

 

[Chilly807]

I don't know about other models but on the BX the 3PH is controlled in a different way from what I'm familiar with on older machines. I can see no way to make the arms float. When you let go of the control, the hitch height locks in place. When I'm blading the driveway, I feel I must keep my hand on the control all of the time to keep the blade on the ground under its full weight.

Am I missing something? Is there a work-around? I'm going to end up rigging something with a bungee cord or a wedge to keep the control in the "down" position.

I'm not sure what you mean by "float"? I don't have a BX, but as far as I know none of Kubota's tractors have down pressure on the 3PH. They do "float" in the upwards direction. Downward movement is controlled by the "response control" valve located in front of the seat. (That's where mine is, whether yours is in the same place or not I have no idea.) I do know that if that valve is completely shut, the 3 PH won't move downward.

If your blade won't dig deeply enough, either your draft control (if you have that option) is set too light, or you need more weight on the blade itself to force it down. I've seen blades with weight racks welded to the top to force them down into the ground.

Some good reading... http://www.tractorsmart.com/main/Tractor%20Three%20Point%20Lift%20Types.htm

Good luck,

Chilly

 

[DavidAubke]

I'm not looking for down-pressure from the hitch, I just want it to allow the implement to... well, float. I don't know any other way of putting it.

On other tractors I've seen, the height control is a lever the position of which corresponds to a specific height at the hitch. All the way forward means all the way down. All the way back means all the way up. If you want the hitch to ride at a particular height, you set the lever at a specific point along its range of travel. If you don't want the hitch to support the implement at all, you set the lever all the way forward.

On the BX, the lever is spring loaded. Pushing forward opens the hydraulic valve allowing the hitch to float. Pulling back pumps it back up. At its neutral position, the hitch is supported at whatever height it happens to be when you released the lever. When blading even slightly uneven ground, the blade frequently lifts up off the ground unless I'm constantly pushing forward on the lever.

I'm aware of the response control valve but to my knowledge that only changes the speed at which the hydraulic pressure is released when lowering. I want an option for the release valve to be open all the time.

 

[DavidAubke]

OK, I just followed your link.

I've got "Non-position control" and I want "Position control". Since I'm not gonna get it, how are others with non-position control keeping their implements on the ground with no upward support?

 

[radair]

I leave the 3 pt hitch control in the down position on my BX23 and the implement seems to float just fine.

 

[gwdixon]

You can adjust the link found inboard of the right rear tire to not spring back to center from the "down" position. That should give you true float since the valve will remain open.

The link is easy to find by tipping up the seat and looking about 4 inches from the right tire toward the transmission. There is a spring on both ends of the linkage where it goes through a swivel. The front spring is the one that controls the down lever if I remember correctly. Just operate the 3 PH lever and it will become obvious which compresses for the "up" and the one for the "down" stroke. Have the engine running and you will see how the return works.

There is a cotter pin in the front spring that can be removed for completely disabling the "down" return thus leaving the valve open.

 

[TripleR]

My BX2660 3-point hitch "floats" with my BB or grader. I push the lever down and when it automatically returns to center, the implement remains in the fully lowered position.

 

[DavidAubke]

radair - Currently, I cannot leave the control in the down position. It springs back to center.

You can adjust the link found inboard of the right rear tire to not spring back to center from the "down" position. That should give you true float since the valve will remain open.

This sounds like the ticket except... when I DO want to hold the hitch at a particular position, will the lever begin to drift forward without that spring tension holding it back?

TripleR - You can drop the blade to the ground and it'll stay in that position but when your front wheels hit a bump, the blade will dig in (which is fine). When your back wheels hit that same bump, the blade will lift off the ground (which is not fine). The blade needs to be free to raise and lower on its own in order to stay in contact. Maybe yours floats but mine sure doesn't. I even suspect that it ratchets up every time I go over another bump.

 

[Kubota-guy1911]

You might try adjusting the valve that controlls how fast it drops to let it drop quickly. When I use my 5' back blade I literally let it fall to the ground by shoving the lift lever all the way forward. Is it possible your blade is not real heavy and could use some additional weight? Is it riding up over packed snow or bumps on the ground? I think my Landpride blade weighs about 250 pounds and it has no problem staying on the ground.

kj

 

[racolton]

Triple and Chilly -
The problem I think he's talking about is that it won't float down. Say you lower your box blade and a 6" rock is under the cutting edge - the box blade will stay 6" off the ground even after you drive forward and off of the rock. I noticed that when clearing snow - I lowered my box blade next to the garage, drove all the way to the end, and when I turned around I saw 1" of snow still on the driveway. Apparently the rear cutting edge had caught on the lip of the garage slab and stayed at that height all the way through. Since then, I just keep my hand on the down lever until I'm ready to raise. Kind of annoying when I'm maneuvering around vehicles, so I think I'll try removing the spring as gwdixon suggests.