Winches How to winch 4300?

[Deerlope]

I love this forum because members will bring there experience and knowledge to help another member in trouble, but Deerlope, your being a little harsh on ''jpinca'', I think. The guy only ask where was the safest place to hook-up the winch. Jmo.[/QUOT


Sorry! I am always willing to help but I need all the facts.

 

[jpinca]

I love this forum because members will bring there experience and knowledge to help another member in trouble, but Deerlope, your being a little harsh on ''jpinca'', I think. The guy only ask where was the safest place to hook-up the winch. Jmo.[/QUOT


Sorry! I am always willing to help but I need all the facts.

Hmm, I thought that was enough "facts" for the simple question at hand. I wasn't asking how to recover, although I'm appreciative of any helpful advice. I figured brevity was the best. But, for anyone interested in the whole epic:

I just bought the tractor and joined the forum, so I haven't had a chance to fill out the signature line. This forum was very helpful in my decision to buy this tractor and I plan to repair the range shift using info gleaned here.

I'm in the south San Fransisco Bay. We've been getting a tremendous amount of rain here and this is my first winter in my new-to-me house. The lot is pretty level with poor drainage. I've been doing some foundation and gutter drain work, but these things never get fully tested until it actually rains (only a few months of the year here). I'm filling in a drywell with drain rock that was delivered on the other side of the property. The 720 loader is working much better than I'd expected and seems to handle a full bucket fine. I'm no longer bummed its not a 730.

The load on the front tires, however quickly wore down major ruts in the saturated silt/clay soil. On one my return trips the front end found a hole and sunk. In retrospect, I should have stopped and assessed the situation, but this little tractor had been darn near unstoppable until this point. I proceeded to bury the both axles. The loader had gotten me moving before, but the ground was so soupy then it couldn't really help this time.

The tractor is now about fifty feet from, and pointed toward, my gravel driveway.

Against my better judgment and in a race against the next rain storm, I brought in my F350 to pull out the tractor backwards. Well, now my truck is stuck further in. Learning my lesson, I didn't bury it and just walked about disgusted.

I now have a 12k winch on my Bronco. First course is to retrieve the F350 and use it as a second anchor point. I plan to bring in some timbers and raise the front with the loader then pull straight ahead.Then pull out the tractor. I have a snatch block, so 24k of force is on tap hence my concern about winch points.

The loader mount look stout, but are they the best choice?

I could try winching backward as there is a big pine tree about 150 feet to the rear, but that would require driving into the quagmire again.

No pics just yet, but I plan to get some for posterity.

So back to the original question: what are the stoutest front/rear winch points for a 4300 w 720 loader.

Thanks.

JP

 

[beenthere]

I buried my 4300 to both axles in mud and now I need to winch it out. Where is the safest winch points, front and rear? I have a 720 loader attached.

Thanks.

JP

Welcome to the forum.
From the front I'd put chain around the weight bar (under the FEL latching plate).
From the rear, the drawbar.

Are there any attachments on the 3 ph.

You must have the 420 loader?

 

[Willl]

I thought that was enough "facts" for the simple question at hand.

You did.

what are the stoutest front/rear winch points for a 4300 w 720 loader.

Like was said, for the rear, hook to your drawbar. For the front, I'd use the frame.

 

[Deerlope]

There is away to get out by chaining a timber to each wheel but unless you have seen this done don't try it. There is some flicks on youtube with a guy doing it. I have with good result attached a chain thru and around the tire and the other end around a tree or some other anchor. You will only pull yourself whatever the tire measures across, then rehook and do it again. As said the drawbar pulling rearward is the strongest point to hook to. Just be sure to use a steady pull, no quick snaps. Hope all works out good for you and I should not have been so short with you.

 

[kennyd]

You must have the 420 loader?

Yeah, it must be...JD only offered a 420 or 430 loader for these machines.

 

[jpinca]

There is away to get out by chaining a timber to each wheel but unless you have seen this done don't try it. There is some flicks on youtube with a guy doing it. I have with good result attached a chain thru and around the tire and the other end around a tree or some other anchor. You will only pull yourself whatever the tire measures across, then rehook and do it again. As said the drawbar pulling rearward is the strongest point to hook to. Just be sure to use a steady pull, no quick snaps. Hope all works out good for you and I should not have been so short with you.

Now that you mention it, I've heard of doing that and probably would have tried it had I thought of it at the time. I have the lumber and the chain. This is my first tractor and I'm still learning while trying to get a job done too.

No hard feelings.

JP

 

[Deerlope]

You go careful with that tractor. Even us guys that have been use them since we was knee high to a grasshopper have accidents.

 

[pat32rf]

I generally hook a strap to the front weight plate but for most pulls I pass it under the bucket, then up around it to the hook on top. I then lower the bucket to the "tobaggan" position and use it to reduce the weight on the front wheels. The pull of the strap will actually try to lift the front.
Notice that I said STRAP, as in nylon that will stretch, not CHAIN. (although I do use short sections of GOOD chain to fasten the strap if needed).
I use an 8000lb winch and snatch block but more to give better control and a lighter current draw than to give 16000lbs of pull.
Make sure that you either have a helper giving the tractor a little bit of "go pedal" or find the neutral point on the shift lever so you are not fighting the hydrostat. Don't let the helper dig deeper ruts, just roll UP and forward as the winch does the work.

 

[jpinca]

I was able to get the tractor out Saturday. It wasn't nearly as hard as I thought it would be; conversely getting my truck out was much harder than I expected.

I ended up using a 6x6 timber under the bucket to raise the front end and fill in the front ruts with some spare wheels. I then attached chains to the eyes on the bottom of the loader bracket; maybe that is the weight rack. The bucket was then lowered with it tilted up sled-like. Pulling with my winch about six feet got the front end onto firmer ground. I was worried about pulling too much with the HST, so I then drove the tractor out using the bucket to pull me along until the tires found enough traction.

I think it looked a whole lot more stuck then it was. The loader can really help out as long as there is something for it to push against. Without it I would have had to winch much further than I did.

JP