How many "TnT" owners

[jenkinsph]

Tailrotor,

Thanks for the information, but we are not using the cylinders to provide down pressure. The tilt cylinders are raising and holding the implements, gravity and implement weight supplies the down pressure.

 

[Tailrotor]

Tailrotor,

Thanks for the information, but we are not using the cylinders to provide down pressure. The tilt cylinders are raising and holding the implements, gravity and implement weight supplies the down pressure.

No problem, Just wanted to pass on to all the readers out there before anybody buys something and did not no the risk. Thanks

 

[AKfish]

The point made regarding the length of the blade or box and the pivot point from the fixed arm is a good one...

Of course, another way to increase the degree of tilt (one way or the other) is to change the offset of the blade; extend the blade either direction - right or left.

My 7' rear blade is offset a foot to the right (location of the tilt cylinder) so, when I tilt the blade up or down - the resulting angle is greater for every inch the cylinder moves compared to when the blade is centered along the horizontal plane of the 3pt arms.

AKfish

 

[jenkinsph]

AKfish,

My blade is similar to yours (maybe the same) and I have considered moving it over as you have done. These blades are lighter than Brian's blade so I tend to make multiple passes to get the ditch big enough. Running the tires in the ditch allows more tilt and angle on the subsequent passes.

I wouldn't think extending the blade to the side would change the amount of tilt as the blade is still parallel to the hitch arms. You are selecting between about three or four sets of mounting holes.

My 7' ( 47?) Deere blade has the bolt on cutting edge is this the same as yours?

 

[AKfish]

Re-thinking my earlier post... I guess the angle does not change relative to the plane of the 3pt but the change in the amount of material that the far end of the blade cuts is dramatic!

My 45 is an older version - no bolt on edge.

I got my hands on a section of scarifier (ice) blade used on a large Motor Grader from the local DOT guys. It's reversible with one side toothed and the other side is a cutting edge.

Cut (plasma cutter) mounting holes into the existing blade and bolted on the new edge. It stiffened up the rear blade and made it heavier, too.

Also, I added 2 sections of railroad rail along the top of the blade for extra weight. The blade doesn't chatter or hop nearly as much now when the "going gets tough"!

AKfish

 

[jenkinsph]

AKfish,
I think my 47 blade is a little heavier than the 45 but not by much. At one time before I wen't back to college I had a 10' all hydraulic blade Cat 3 and a Case 1370 Agri King with duals that thing would cut a ditch.

Anyway I may have to move my blade over as you have done to get more reach, and if that is the case I would be just as well off with the tilt setup I have now. The more you tilt the blade the closer to center it gets, so you have less extention outboard.

This could all be resolved with a more elaborate rear blade but I come up short by one circuit as I have three rear outlets and I would need four outlets for top link, tilt, offset and blade angle.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

AKfish,
I think my 47 blade is a little heavier than the 45 but not by much. At one time before I wen't back to college I had a 10' all hydraulic blade Cat 3 and a Case 1370 Agri King with duals that thing would cut a ditch.

Anyway I may have to move my blade over as you have done to get more reach, and if that is the case I would be just as well off with the tilt setup I have now. The more you tilt the blade the closer to center it gets, so you have less extention outboard.

This could all be resolved with a more elaborate rear blade but I come up short by one circuit as I have three rear outlets and I would need four outlets for top link, tilt, offset and blade angle.

This is my current problem also. So I have to manually set the offset at this time. The killer is that I have the extra valve that needs to be added and already have the offset cylinder & hoses. Just need the time to get it done. Luckily with a 9' blade, I don't need to offset my blade all that often.

If you look at the boom, there is one hydraulic for angle and one manual adjustment for the offset. Someday I'll get it all plumbed up.
Oh, just for the information, this blade weighs about 1140lbs.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Here is some more info regarding my "TnT" setups. Both of my tilt cylinders are set so that the hydraulic is at mid stroke when implement is level.

My cat 1 has a 2x4 cylinder. I get 8 degrees of angle in each direction. With a 66" wide implement that is about 8" of movement in each direction on the cylinder side.

My cat 2 has a 3x8 cylinder. I get 11 degrees of angle in each direction.
With an 81" wide implement that is about 12 3/4" of movement in each direction on the cylinder side.

I guess what I don't understand is why do you guys want to be able to cut a steeper cut? It's not like you are going to get a 22 degree cut 18" deep in one pass. And for those of us that have rear blades with tilt, between the side tilt on the 3pt and the rear blade tilt, we can get close to 45 degrees if need be. So with just the 3pt, if you put your tire in the first cut ditch, then the second time you can get around double the angle of the first cut. And most likely you will need to make at least 2 passes anyway.

I am probably missing the obvious, but would one of you explain the desire to have such extreem tilt.

 

[jenkinsph]

MtViewRanch,

Brian if you refer back to posts 25 or so I have a picture of my boxblade and your post below it has a picture of your rearblade. In my picture that is the maximum amount of tilt I can get with the single cylinder but that is with a range from level to this tilt angle. If I add a second cylinder it is to provide tilting the same degree in the opposite direction.

With your all hydraulic blade I can't see where you would benefit from this until you changed to a different implement.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Steve, do you know, or can you check how much of an angle you can get on your box blade? Maybe check how much travel you get with your hydraulic side link. It looks like you might get 15 degrees?

OK, I guess that I understand your reasoning. So if you have your hydraulic side link set at the midway point as I have mine, then your implement is too low to the ground for your liking? Or you just want that much tilt angle.

 

[dcyrilc]

This is my current problem also. So I have to manually set the offset at this time. The killer is that I have the extra valve that needs to be added and already have the offset cylinder & hoses. Just need the time to get it done. Luckily with a 9' blade, I don't need to offset my blade all that often.

If you look at the boom, there is one hydraulic for angle and one manual adjustment for the offset. Someday I'll get it all plumbed up.
Oh, just for the information, this blade weighs about 1140lbs.

Who makes a 9ft or wider blade? Mine is 8ft, but if I put on my duels, I'm around 9ft6 wide. I didn't know anyone made a wider blade.

 

[Pops15]

Who makes a 9ft or wider blade? Mine is 8ft, but if I put on my duels, I'm around 9ft6 wide. I didn't know anyone made a wider blade.

Landpride makes 9' and 10' wide blades like Brian's.

 

[jenkinsph]

Brian,

Went out and measured my hitch and I have a total of 15 degrees of tilt (measured with a high degree of accuracy). So if I set the left arm in the middle I would only get 7.5 degrees of tilt per side which isn't enough. I would like to get about 15 degrees to both sides without adjustments.
No height issues that I can see, when adjusted as in the picture which allows a range of level (with cylinder fully retracted) to full tilt to the right side (cylinder fully extended) which is a 15 degree angle I still have about 1 inch of clearance using an 8' wide implement.


dcyrilc.

My previous blade mentioned in the post above was 10 ft wide and all hydraulic including offset which was needed since with duals (18.4x38's) the tractor was close to 11 ft wide. Don't remember the brand but it wasn't Deere anyway. These blades are still available I am sure.

 

[dcyrilc]

Landpride makes 9' and 10' wide blades like Brian's.

Thanks, I'll do a search for Landpride.

 

[jenkinsph]

Cyril,

Frontier has 9 and 10 ft models listed rated up to 160 hp. Very likely these are rebadged Woods brand.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Who makes a 9ft or wider blade? Mine is 8ft, but if I put on my duels, I'm around 9ft6 wide. I didn't know anyone made a wider blade.

There are many makers of 9' & 10' rear blades. Most of them are pretty much the same in design, weight, etc. When I was looking for one, the one that I felt was THE BEST was Bison. But they are made in Mexico, and the West Coast Distributor was not going to be getting any in for months, so I went with Land Pride. Actually I think that all the bigger names have them, there are no economy makers or models of these size blades. They are ALL big $$$$. If you ever go to any farm-AG shows, that would be the place to maybe get a deal on one. I would say that you should expect to pay between 4 & 6 thousand for a new one. Mine was right around $4K and that was with NO hydraulics. My Land Pride RBT45108
is rated for a 125HP 15,000lb machine. Now that is way over kill for my tractor, but the next smaller blade, an RBT40 series is to small-light duty, it is only rated for 100hp 2wd at 9,5000lbs.

 

[dcyrilc]

dcyrilc.

My previous blade mentioned in the post above was 10 ft wide and all hydraulic including offset which was needed since with duals (18.4x38's) the tractor was close to 11 ft wide. Don't remember the brand but it wasn't Deere anyway. These blades are still available I am sure.

Mine has 13.6x38's. And though I haven't measured it, it just fits through the 10ft wide door. When I first got the tractor, I looked a little bit at blades and didn't find anything over 8ft, so I never looked any further since it already came with the 8ft blade.

Sometime down the road, after I get rear hydraulics on it, I'll have to take another look at blades. A 9 or 10ft blade which offsets would be very helpful for cleaning out my ditches.

 

[DK35vince]

Also - - what are the sizes of the cylinders you used for top and side. You said that the cylinders were "with check valves" - not sure I understand this either.

Thanks for the help,
Reggie

Reggie,
I almost forgot to get you the cylinder sizes.
Both cylinders are 2" diameter.
Top link in the closed position. Center of pin to center of pin is 21"
Side link closed is 17 1/2"
The check valves on top and tilt cylinders Keep the cylinders from leaking/drifting down.
I originally tried top &tilt cylinders without check valves and my tilt cylinder would always drift down and not be level.
I later switch to top & tilt cylinders with check valves. I recommend them, they never drift off.

 

[kruszert]

Viince,
Thanks for the info. I have already called Rick from Wallace Tractor to get a price on the second set of remote valves - - he is working on that. The cylinders without check valves are a bunch cheaper (Bailey sells them) than the ones from CCM with the check valve but if they don't hold their position without a check valve I guess I better spend the extra money.

Thanks for the help,
Reggie

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Viince,
Thanks for the info. I have already called Rick from Wallace Tractor to get a price on the second set of remote valves - - he is working on that. The cylinders without check valves are a bunch cheaper (Bailey sells them) than the ones from CCM with the check valve but if they don't hold their position without a check valve I guess I better spend the extra money.

Thanks for the help,
Reggie

Reggie, I don't seem to have any problems with my "TnT" sets not having any check valves, but then I guess that I am one of the few.