logging winch

[rd_macgregor]

Also have to weld on an anchor foot. Something to dig in when pulling. This will be the last thing. Also a bar with slots to hook chains in to drag with and last someeking of box for chain saw etc. Cannot decide whether or not to cut off the carry all arms that go back. Think I will wait and see how it works.

I don't know how many remotes you have, but if you had an hydraulic top link, you might be able to use the bottom arms of the carry-all as a brace by tilting the platform down a bit when pulling. Then, you could also pull the load all the way up close, tilt up a bit, raise the 3PH and drag winched logs away supported on the carry-all arms. The possible flaw that I see in this idea is the 1000# rated capacity of the carry-all...
BOB

 

[6sunset6]

I don't know how many remotes you have, but if you had an hydraulic top link, you might be able to use the bottom arms of the carry-all as a brace by tilting the platform down a bit when pulling. Then, you could also pull the load all the way up close, tilt up a bit, raise the 3PH and drag winched logs away supported on the carry-all arms. The possible flaw that I see in this idea is the 1000# rated capacity of the carry-all...
BOB

I actually have 4 , one is on a 3 way diverter valve top, tilt and whatever. These are restricted flow . Works well with 1/4 hoses.
A second is full flow. This is the one I will use for the winch. I plan on winching in and then chaining up to the top of the carry all for skidding. As you say lifting a bit for the drag.
I do not think the carry all will be the limiting factor. By the time I get done working on it it could probably handle 5 tons at least. The three pins would probably shear ( I will take a look at that) I think the tires will slip before anything else lets go.
Yeah well 3 3/4 pins ( with out looking it up) for mild steel 20.000 psi in shear allowable ( I bet pins are 4140 and higher) 26,000 #. Since the tractor weighs maybe 3500 or 4000 with attachments Tires slipping would be it , I think. I did break a pin once in tension ,back blading backwards , hit an immovable object. That was pretty scary, bent the lower arm as well.

 

[8404]

Any more updates for this winch project?? Im realy wanting to see some upclose pictures of the hydraulic hookups and what they do. what parts did you use to lower the PSI of you system.?

 

[Dead Horse]

I also have a small Farmi. I like the fact that it pulls from the top. It really helps when the tractor is backed to a rut or ditch or on a bank to have that upward pull when the log gets in close.
You will not pull the tractor over if you have the upper link adjusted so that the force is directed at the rear axel or below ( which means use the lowest
hole on the tractor end of the upper link).
The Farmi unit will definately not dissapoint you.

My old Farmi 601 (600KG pull) has a movable snatch block that adjusts (and pins) up and down the center spine of the winch dozer blade. (you can see it in the picky just below the FARMI lable on the winch) This allows moving the "pull point" from the top pully to a position as low as a foot off the ground, depending on how deep the dozer blade is dug in.

It may well be that smaller farmi's don't have this feature but I was under the impression that even the 5,000 # model had it.

 

[6sunset6]

Any more updates for this winch project?? Im realy wanting to see some upclose pictures of the hydraulic hookups and what they do. what parts did you use to lower the PSI of you system.?

I had to wait for fittings , And of course one they had on backorder, then of course I needed some different ones. So I worked on the safety guard. 1" EMT tube. $6.00 for 10ft. I have a bender and could have done it all with one joint but the preformed 90d are a little easier to work with. I will gas weld the joints with a high temp fillet forming alloy , great stuff, used for racing car tube frames. The bracket that holds the gate receiver has a slot to hang the 2 button transmitter. I used a Prince 1500-3000 psi cross over relief valve just before the motor. You can see it with a flow control plumbed in. Two more fittings on that valve and I am ready to start hoses. I think I will have to have loops in the hoses 3/8 R1 , the spaces are too tight. The winch is off center by 1.5" I was trying to protect the winch motor from getting banged around , also was trying to tuck the winch in as close as possible to the frame. The winch shift handles stick out a little bit on the other side , I will attach a guard to the frame in front of it. The safety guard I will weld some kind of heavy fence wire to, I have some 1 x 2 12 g around.
There is a plate bolted high on the pull side. This is for a pull chain hook bar. It is too high I will have to lower it so the pull point is closer to the center line of the tractor axle. The plates are all 1/2 steel. I have a lot of it around and I used it for everything. I will have to take every thing apart to paint and I still have to add something on the bottom to dig in when pulling. I have two suitcase weights and will probably attach a point to hang them from. The real reason everything is going slowly is that while I was visiting some friends on a dairy farm up north a couple of weeks ago I slipped on a patch of ice and cracked 2 bones in my wrist when I went down. Healing well , brace on it all the time, Doc says don't use it for 4 more weeks. I think the DR and xrays will cost more that the parts for the logging winch. Bummer

 

[8404]

Sorry about the wrist im sure it hurts plenty with all the cold weather.
I was wondering which one of the parts is the cross over releif valve and which is the flow controler. and of course what is the aluminum colored box on the right side of the picture. Im going to get a mile marker winch for my tractor too but to be used for self recovery while brush cutting and i want to learn from your project the parts needed for use on a tractor because Mile Marker winches where ment to be used with powersteering pumps not tractor pumps pushing 2500psi.

 

[6sunset6]

Sorry about the wrist im sure it hurts plenty with all the cold weather.
I was wondering which one of the parts is the cross over releif valve and which is the flow controler. and of course what is the aluminum colored box on the right side of the picture. Im going to get a mile marker winch for my tractor too but to be used for self recovery while brush cutting and i want to learn from your project the parts needed for use on a tractor because Mile Marker winches where ment to be used with powersteering pumps not tractor pumps pushing 2500psi.

Look a the second picture . The black thing on the left is the cross over valve.
It has one fitting on top on the left. Just below that is an other valve with a round handle . That is a flow control valve. There is no check valve in it so it will restrict flow in both directions. I figured I would spool out some cable , put a drag weight on it and time the spool in. Adjust the flow valve to what ever the winch specs are. The cross over valve is factory set at 1500 psi. I have a gage 0-3000 that I will attach at some point to check the 1500 psi.
The aluminum square on the right side is the manifold mount for the Vickers Solenoid valve. Tape comes off and the valve bolts right onto the block. The idea is if solenoid coils have to be changed no oil is exposed. If the valve itself has to be rebuilt or swapped out no plumbing connections are disturbed.
I will attach some info on those parts.

 

[6sunset6]

Sorry about the wrist im sure it hurts plenty with all the cold weather.
I was wondering which one of the parts is the cross over releif valve and which is the flow controler. and of course what is the aluminum colored box on the right side of the picture. Im going to get a mile marker winch for my tractor too but to be used for self recovery while brush cutting and i want to learn from your project the parts needed for use on a tractor because Mile Marker winches where ment to be used with powersteering pumps not tractor pumps pushing 2500psi.

How big is your tractor? If you have a brush hog on the back you will not have a winch back there when you need it. You could put it on the front.
The hydraulic hook up will cost as much as the winch and that assumes the tractor has hydraulics available. For just recovery you may want to consider an electric winch and stash a battery someplace. You will need a lot of amps but a deep draw marine bat would do it $ 120 charge it up when you get back to the barn. The tractor alternator will not like the load. The winches are cheaper as well. Double the winch line throu a snatch block on the anchor and a 4000# winch will pull out a pretty big tractor with the brush hog still on it. In any case for recovery don't forget to carry some stuff for anchoring the cable.

 

[8404]

My tractor is just a 40hp. it came with one rear remote i wanted to use to supply the winch power. and run lines up to the front to a front mount winch.
I mow for extra money durring the summers and i work alone and i need a reliable way of getting out of trouble in the fields i mow. sometimes ill be stuck 100 yards from a road and i want to use a hydraulic winch because of the long durration winching pulls i might run into to get free.

thanks for taking time to explane your set up I think i can get the same parts and use them. except the solinoid valve, i want to use my rear remote to control in and out of the winch from the tractors seat.

 

[rdbrumfield]

8404, You will never regret putting a winch up front. I too do a lot of mowing and I have a hyd unit permanently installed in my loader frame, running hoses from the rear remotes up front.
You will find that you use it a lot more for just picking and moving things than you ever will pulling yourself out.
With the winch in the loader instead of the tractor frame I find it much more useful.

I would like to ask to those that use the milemarker winch, what kind of line speed to you get with the tractor hyd. As they are designed for power steering pumps, most tractors beat that gpm. Was thinking of going to them as my winch supplier is no more.