How do you put your tire chains on ?

[pat32rf]

Been There -When I made my chains I made a point to have them come farther down over the sidewalls as I find myself in deep snow (icy crusts) and mud and I do get traction from the side chains when I am up against snowdrifts, rocks and logs.
I also think that the shorter side chains keep things centered better as they have farther to go to climb up to the tread. They do make for a lot more weight by the time you add up the longer cross-chains however.
There has been more than once that I have hooked my tow chain/rope to a cross-chain and used it to winch myself out-SLOWLY!

 

[beenthere]

With the shorter cross chains (those are where the wear is at) and longer side chains, it keeps the cost down. When cross chains are long to reach the side chains, they only wear about half the length. But if you like the apparent extra traction, then that is the way to go.
Properly fitted and hand tightened, there is no worry that they are going to climb off.
Another reason (actually the main reason) they are built this way, was to not encroach on the narrow space between the fender and the tire. These chains fit into the scallop at the end of the tire bars.

And note, there is no way the cross chains are hiding between the bars. So often we read where there is a fear that the cross chains will get lost in the lugs and not work.

 

[Gizmo2]

There has been more than once that I have hooked my tow chain/rope to a cross-chain and used it to winch myself out-SLOWLY!

Now that is interesting.

 

[newbury]

My chains are here, probably wont see any more snow this season.
I have ladder chains from Tire chains .com. I put them on this morning (never had to put chains on before) I placed them on the ground and drove on to them and lifted them up onto the tire. would it be easier to put them on from the top first or drive on to them? Also the chains maybe a little to big as one cross section overlapped the other end. Not going to cut just yet, making sure I have them on right first. I also got the spring tensioner, After tightening everything the still seem a little loose. Any suggestion would be appreciated as I never had to install chains before.

I'm probably going to get chains for my ride for mud when I move south. But I've years of exeprience with chains on trucks and cars in northern VT and a few times here in Va. There I always laid them down, crept forward so I could wrap the chain and tighten. Then drove a little and tightened.

With my present ride I'd probably just just lower my stabilizers and wrap the chain.

 

[EMS503]

Thankyou everbody for your replies. I will have to redo the right side as it is hitting the inside of the fender, but now I have a good idea how this is to be done. I will probably remove one cross section but I will wait for warmer weather so I can make sure I do it right. Again thankyou all.

 

[Verticaltrx]

I don't have chains on either of my tractors right now, but when I put them on trucks and such I always jacks the tire up when installing them in the shop. If I have to do it along side the road I carry a block of wood that will fit between the 'ladder' of the chains to get the tire up off the ground. I lay the chains out, place the block in the second ladder opening and drive up so the tire is on the block. There is plenty of room to pull the chain back and forth and side to side with the tire up on the block. I then wrap the chain all the way around the tire so I make the connection down low and not having to lift and hold the chain while connecting them.

 

[Royboy]

How much slack should there be in the chains? How much slack CAN there be? I have been trying put my new ones on for the first time todayand it has been tough considering I am working alone and have never done it before. I guess what I need to know is how just loose they can be before I have to resort to cutting links out to modify their size?

Thanks!

 

[Nuru]

Hmmm, anyone thin these might be worth a try?

Autosock Item Information

much more expensive

YouTube - Onspot Automatic Tire Chains

 

[beenthere]

I hand tighten mine (no tighter), and have no slop in the side chains or cross chains.

I would cut the inside side-chain to just the length needed, and the outside side-chain to leave just two extra links for easier hand tightening.

Then there is no need for any tighteners strung between the outside of the tire to take up slop. IMO

 

[atgreene]

Trygg says you should be able to put a fist between the tire and the side chain. That's about where i run mine, seems to be a good fit, and no, I don't use tighteners or rubber straps either.

Those auto chains are ok. I had a set on a plow truck a few years ago. Not great, but better than nothing. We also run them on all our fire apparatus and ambulances and most oil trucks and school busses around here have them. Again, handy in a pinch, but not as good as real chains.

 

[jenkinsph]

beenthere,

That is a good fit, I agree the proper length of the chains makes a big difference.

 

[Gizmo2]

I hand tighten mine (no tighter), and have no slop in the side chains or cross chains.

I would cut the inside side-chain to just the length needed, and the outside side-chain to leave just two extra links for easier hand tightening.

Then there is no need for any tighteners strung between the outside of the tire to take up slop. IMO

Good one! The two extra links on the outside side chain has always helped me tremendously when installing.

 

[Nuru]

Trygg says you should be able to put a fist between the tire and the side chain. That's about where i run mine, seems to be a good fit, and no, I don't use tighteners or rubber straps either.

Those auto chains are ok. I had a set on a plow truck a few years ago. Not great, but better than nothing. We also run them on all our fire apparatus and ambulances and most oil trucks and school busses around here have them. Again, handy in a pinch, but not as good as real chains.

Thanks ATGREEN.

 

[savageactor7]

We'll jack a wheel slightly off the ground, try and center and secure the inside of the chain to the tire. Then do the same with the outside of the tire. We finish by using those rubber chain straps with the 2 'S' hooks to take the slop out of the chains.

My Dad said the chains are on right if you don't hear them.

 

[RoyJackson]

How much slack should there be in the chains? How much slack CAN there be? I have been trying put my new ones on for the first time todayand it has been tough considering I am working alone and have never done it before. I guess what I need to know is how just loose they can be before I have to resort to cutting links out to modify their size?

Thanks!

Tirechains.com instructions state to attach the inner hook as tight as possible with no tools. "With no tools" means hand tight. As heavy as these chains are (and I have the 4 link style which are probably the lightest of those tractor chains), one is only going to get them "so tight".
Mine were tight enough to allow a few fingers under the cross links before using bungee tensioners.
After a few trips up and down the drive (in mid-range 3rd gear), the chains settled enough to allow me to tighten a couple more links on the outer hook.
Then, I connected the bungee tensioners.
I had a few overlapping links but I didn't cut them off. I used wireties to prevent them from flopping about during travel.
A couple more trips up and down the drive...well, they seem to be OK to me.
This was my first time installing chains too, BTW.

 

[beenthere]

Tirechains.com instructions state to attach the inner hook as tight as possible with no tools. "With no tools" means hand tight. .............

Not to lessen the message, but if the inside chains are attached first, then the tirechains.com instruction makes little sense (to me).
The inside chains are going to be loose if attached first, so seems the instructions would be to just attach the inside chains on the first link. Don't want any loose links rattling around on the inside. If there are extra links on the inside, then that inside chain should be shortened to fit (that might need to happen after the first fitting) so cut off those links. Life will be much better after that.

 

[crazyal]

The idea is if you put the inside on first then when you do the outside it will pull the chain towards the outside and tighten up the inside and outside together.

I have a set of Tellefsdal Supers. They have two chian that run around the outside of the tire on top of the tread. They use a forged c shaped clip to hold them together. Both inside and outside have arms to tighten the chains up so I tighten up the inside then outside then go back and see if I can get another link on the inside until the chains are very tight. Tellefsdal says they shouldn't be that tight but I've never used bungees or springs on the sides.

I have found on my truck if the chains are too loose the cross links will roll on the tire and snap.

 

[newbury]

By far the best way to get them on is to lift the tractor with the back-hoe outriggers after you have them draped over the tire!!!! Then remove the hoe and install the blower/back blade

Yup, that's why I bought the Backhoe! It also helps with flats!

I know, I know, I still need to put on tensioners.

/edit - and I got them from tirechains.com as recommended, fairly tight fit, not yet enough link to have to cut off.

 

[RoyJackson]

Not to lessen the message, but if the inside chains are attached first, then the tirechains.com instruction makes little sense (to me).
The inside chains are going to be loose if attached first, so seems the instructions would be to just attach the inside chains on the first link. Don't want any loose links rattling around on the inside. If there are extra links on the inside, then that inside chain should be shortened to fit (that might need to happen after the first fitting) so cut off those links. Life will be much better after that.

The way I read those instructions was to fit the inside as tight as possible (but with no tools), then the outer hook. Then run the machine for bout a 1/4 mile, then re-tighten. Even after settling, I didn't get more then another link on the inside...2-3 on the outside.
Chains were pretty snug before I bungeed. Like the OP's question...how snug is snug enough? Well, guess I'll find out.

As far as the "extra" links, it was either tirechains.com or another site recommended wire tieing....makes sense as the chain company doesn't know how worn a customer's tires may be. Also, of course, another tire manufacturers replacement tire might be have a larger (or smaller) circumference, should a tire require replacement. Makes sense to me...

Anyway, the chains don't flop around when operating at 8-10 MPH and nothing has hit the fenders, so I reckon they're OK.

 

[whistlepig]

Tirechains.com instructions state to attach the inner hook as tight as possible with no tools. "With no tools" means hand tight. As heavy as these chains are (and I have the 4 link style which are probably the lightest of those tractor chains), one is only going to get them "so tight".
Mine were tight enough to allow a few fingers under the cross links before using bungee tensioners.
After a few trips up and down the drive (in mid-range 3rd gear), the chains settled enough to allow me to tighten a couple more links on the outer hook.
Then, I connected the bungee tensioners.
I had a few overlapping links but I didn't cut them off. I used wireties to prevent them from flopping about during travel.
A couple more trips up and down the drive...well, they seem to be OK to me.
This was my first time installing chains too, BTW.

If you jack the tire up and keep working with the chains while rotating the tire you can get them pretty tight. I have read it both ways. Some say the chains should be tight and some say not.