kennyd: yeah, I'll probably do that. I'll put them on a ten volt supply so the bulbs last forever, maybe toss in a NTC resistor for slow start up.
The insurance co. is waiting for the repair bill. They were trying to get up with Deere (don't know who they were talking to) to get an estimate. When I told them it was being fixed, they decided to just wait for the bill. When they have that, then all that info goes to the "decider" and I'll see where I stand. The local scavenging effort goes on, so the $4600 for demolition looks like it might be as low as $1000 or lower. As per an earlier post, note that letting time pass worked out well but I had to have some $$s in reserve to be able to pay repair bills.
Steve: I had the dealer do the hydraulic work. I've never done it, so learning on this one time seemed like a bad idea plus I've got a lot of other stuff going on. I told them to use the QCs on the back, and described them as "in line" and tucked up under the tractor. Well, they mounted the plate in the rear. I brought my hydraulic top link in and had the plate moved up about 4" so all the hoses clear. So down side is QCs not as inconspicuous, up side is easy access when putting on the PHD. I'll put pix on the thread I started months ago on the subject so others can see your approach and what I ended up with. Sometimes miscommunication is serendipitous, other times it's just dippy

. I have the 3rd SCV for the cylinder on the sickle mower.
New tractor garage is at a point where I'm putting in studs so I can put up plywood walls. Here's a shot of part of the electrical work which is done and has passed inspection. It's raining today, so the task is the last step inside the house to connect water to the garage. Once the studs are up, I'm finally ready for insulation. Had to take a week off of that for the solar project, we finally had good weather and dry ground.
Pete