Oil & Fuel Syntheic oil at 50hr service? Old topic, but want fresh ideas
- Thread starter OtterBrookStables
- Start date
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bp fick
Super Member
Sorry I didn't post earlier,I was working. I figured I'd post anyway.
Funny thing these manuals. Hood sticker and manual don't jive!
Don't know what to do:confused2:
Maybe I'll just drop back and punt
Greg
Greg, printed manuals are printed in bulk, at a great price. When they get superceded, the OEMs continue to ship them out with outdated info. Sometimes they place an update sticker, as they did on your tractor, or they just allow the confusion to reign. Short and sweet? Go with the sticker, as it is new information, no doubt. Stickers are cheap and if they need updating, it isn't as expensive for the OEMs.
Spudland_Dave
Veteran Member
Sorry I didn't post earlier,I was working. I figured I'd post anyway.
Funny thing these manuals. Hood sticker and manual don't jive!
Don't know what to do:confused2:
Maybe I'll just drop back and punt
Greg
Well, actually they might. Depends on how you look at it.
Your hood sticker doesnt have a "First 50 Hours" column....it has a "Every 50 Hours"...2 totally different things...
glc24
Platinum Member
Wacky,isn't it,and I don't know if I want to wait until I hit 200 hours to change oil. Maybe I'll do like some and put breakin oil again at 50 hours,then change to synthetic oil at 100.
Greg
Greg
OP
OtterBrookStables
Silver Member
Very true - frustrating!
The best info I have been able to gather so far it so use break-in oil for the first 100 hrs, then run anything you want. Not sure if I will swap out now - at 50 hrs - for fresh break-in oil or just go the full 100. :confused2:
Too bad Deere can't get theor act together and print a manual that is accurate and clearly states the requirements. This is ridiculous, really.
Just to muddy things up some more, this is a copy of part of JD3520 owner manual. There is no mention of oil change until 200 hrs.
After First 10 Hours
Check wheel bolt torque.
Check cab rollover protection system mounting hardware torque.
Check windshield wiper arm mounting hardware torque.
Every 10 Hours or Daily
Test safety systems.
Check engine oil level.
Check transmission oil level.
Check air filter rubber dust unloading valve.
Check radiator coolant level.
Every 50 Hours
Check front axle oil level.
Lubricate machine.
Check cab protection system mounting hardware torque.
Clean or replace cab air filters.
Every 200 Hours
Change engine oil and filter.
Inspect alternator belt.
Check air restriction indicator light.
Check wheel bolt torque.
After First 10 Hours
Check wheel bolt torque.
Check cab rollover protection system mounting hardware torque.
Check windshield wiper arm mounting hardware torque.
Every 10 Hours or Daily
Test safety systems.
Check engine oil level.
Check transmission oil level.
Check air filter rubber dust unloading valve.
Check radiator coolant level.
Every 50 Hours
Check front axle oil level.
Lubricate machine.
Check cab protection system mounting hardware torque.
Clean or replace cab air filters.
Every 200 Hours
Change engine oil and filter.
Inspect alternator belt.
Check air restriction indicator light.
Check wheel bolt torque.
OP
OtterBrookStables
Silver Member
Yep - my 4120 manual says the same thing. Back in this thread I posted a link and some others posted a couple more that are a little more informative. Check 'em out if you haven't already.
jimgerken
Veteran Member
This year I ran my new 3720 to 160 hours on the factory fill. I watched the level carefully (check every morning!) all summer. Lots of loader work, some mowing, and I was pulling a 10 foot disk with it some of the time, doing tillage of sod (very old cowyard pasture), in prep for seeding it to alfalpha hay. A few hours of disking is a good load on the engine. As the hours approached 160, the oil seemed to be all done, as evidenced by a gradual (over a few days) comsumption of about a half quart. When I saw this, I drained and changed filter, and refilled with Ams 15W40. Now it has 240 hours on it and it does not use any oil. From now on, I will change oil yearly, which should be about 200 hours per year.
Another idea for putting on a load would be a wood chipper (maybe a rental). If sized properly, and branches piled up and ready, you'd get a good workout (so would the tractor). Running a pto powered tiller could also work it well, assuming the tiller was big enough. Any PTO device could do it if loaded right. Stump grinding maybe?
Another idea for putting on a load would be a wood chipper (maybe a rental). If sized properly, and branches piled up and ready, you'd get a good workout (so would the tractor). Running a pto powered tiller could also work it well, assuming the tiller was big enough. Any PTO device could do it if loaded right. Stump grinding maybe?
Spudland_Dave
Veteran Member
You bring up a good point...Properly breaking it in is just as much if not more critical then the actual oil change. If your tractor leads a "pampered" life, then I'd probably use break in oil till 150ish hours.
I was lucky in that last winter we actually got snow here in Maine and I was able to really give my 3520 a workout on the blower. In the spring I switched to the Syn and she's been fine ever since.
orlo
Platinum Member
I have a new 4720 with less than 10 hours on it. A deal near where I travel every day said they do come with break in oil so I got some in case I need to top off the oil. I did think about changing it at maybe 10-15 hrs and putting break in oil back until maybe 50. I figure the filter change alone will take out a lot of crap.
I was even thinking of changing the filter for the hydraulic oil since I think I can change the filter without draining (on the hydraulic oil.
200hrs does seem like a long time. On my 3720 my dealer used to recommend changing it at about 80hrs.
I was even thinking of changing the filter for the hydraulic oil since I think I can change the filter without draining (on the hydraulic oil.
200hrs does seem like a long time. On my 3720 my dealer used to recommend changing it at about 80hrs.