L4150DT Bevel Gear Repair Update with Pics

[Happyman]

What do you recommend for lube in there? My manual says either UDT (SUDT) or gear oil (80w).
One better than another?

 

[brain55]

I have always used gear oil. The gears hold up better, but the seals don't seem to last as long. With the UDT the seals last longer, but the gears don't.

Brian

 

[Happyman]

I have always used gear oil. The gears hold up better, but the seals don't seem to last as long. With the UDT the seals last longer, but the gears don't.

Brian

So the answer is really "either" ?
I would assume replacing the seals is cheaper then the gears. But I'll bet the gears last longer than the seals. Decisions, decisions, :confused2: :confused2: :confused2: :confused2: :laughing:

 

[nightowl490]

Interesting about the L5450 gears. I must say, I agree with mine being replaced prior, they were in fantastic shape! As far as oil in concerned, it is a constant debate. I was told to cut %50 80W and Lucas gear oil. Another person recommended ol Shaeffer gear oil.

All of these parts, seals etc.. are designed to be replaced at some point.

Who knows?

 

[brain55]

Shaeffer oil is awesome stuff. I wish I had a supplier here. The owners grandson is a friend of mine. When he lived here in California he demo'd it to me, I was very impressed. Another friend used it in his European auto repair shop and was very pleased with it.

Brian

 

[nightowl490]

STILL WAITING FOR MY PARTS. GETTING ANTSY:drool: I've been emery clothing everything to smoothe out! When parts arrive I will photo and list out on here for those who wanted. By the way, everything cleaned up real nice with diesel & kerosene and rubbin!

 

[nightowl490]

:thumbsup:Got my parts in middle of last week and dove right in. Pressed out the broken/worn parts. Look what is left of the spindle bearing and bevel shaft oil seal!:confused2:Looks as it was caught just in the nick of time!

The second pic is the bevel shaft in place seated into new bearing and prepared for thrust washer and staking nut to be torqued. I torqued staking nuts on both ends of bevel shaft at 50lbs. My workshop manual didn't list a torque?50 is a good round number and it placed nothing in a bind when it was together. What a difference the new parts made. Shaft had NO side to side play and approximately .2MM play (up and down). It really went together well. Workshop manual called for gear oil pre-installed into needle bearing. I put a light coat of gear on entire shaft and massaged it together:thumbsup:

 

[nightowl490]

Following is a pic of staking nut on top and bottom with snap ring in place. After placing snap ring in place I placed NEW cap on bottom of bevel gear housing. This part is now all together and extremely heavy to handle. After putting light permatex coating on all jointed parts to help out the O-rings. I stuck together pretty darn simple. JUST TOOK PATIENCE AND PUSHING IN THE RIGHT PLACES!:thumbsup::licking: And whalla, installed with rebuilt bevel internals Of course I will be patient with break in and drain oil after about 25 hours to inspect for break-in metal and replace oil. Something interesting about my oil. I used $$$$ Lucas $$$$ Hub oil cut 50% 80W. Since I'm draining in short time I will see how it held up?

Cannot wait for those 70degree temps and some tractor work!

I would like to thank my sponsors: Natural Light, Captian Morgan, Lucas Oils, Brehm Farms (for shop time with press and the like), Keller Bros. also known as Tractorsmart and of course TBN and of course my family for watching me yell and curse and talk about needing to go to the shop and work on the tractor!

 

[nightowl490]

please post the part #'s when ya get 'em from ronnie bowman

As requested:
08401-51113 Thrust Bearing (Ball)
32580-43650 Inner Ring (For bevel shaft which had scoring)
32580-43660 Oil Seal (very small seal just north of needle bearing)
32580-43672 Needle Bearing
32580-43730 Thrust washer, (old was scarred)
32580-43743 Cap (Underneath bevel bear case, I ordered two, just in case)
32580-43870 Collar (Wear ring fits inside of bevel case and Boss rides it)
32580-43880 .5mm Bushing (did not need, it was still tight!)
32580-43940 Staking Nut (ordered 3, just in case $11ea:ashamed
32590-43620 Oil Seal (the big upgraded one!)

Grand total was $207.56
Ronnie was great! and I KNOW I save $$ compared to local dealer. Lets face it, this was a either get it right or very wrong kind of order to get from afar and it worked out VERY well.

 

[nightowl490]

Almost sick engineering. I made a shim the same diameter of the bevel casing and tried a puller. Pullers are about as dumb as a bag of hammers, when they don't work. After fighting it I took a small chain and put it around the bevel planetary housing 'hub' with a 8 ton jack on my heavier now shim. Put the chain around the jack and (made) a portable press :confused2:You cannot imagine how much pressure it took, mind you, this part should "fall" off. As mentioned prior, it had to come off! It did, it pulled the oil seal out of it's fitted area (was getting new one anyway). The hang up was simple, there is the peiced together bearing ? and the top of it had changed 'integrity' hanging the whole thing up. Probably from the heat and wear. A new complete bearing set is on the way as well. I am replacing almost everything in that bevel houseing pdf I posted earlier. I will quote someone from earlier, the smaller the part the cheaper, usually" so why skimp now with it all apart. It had been failing for quite some time. I reccommend to all, change that bevel oil in your Botas, oil is cheap and this is 'catchable earlier'. THAT BEVEL 'SPINDLE' PART IS A CAST SECTION AND IT'S $500 WITHOUT BEARING AND ALL THE INTERNALS.

I know this is long winded but it was a heckofa day.......

THE PIECED TOGETHER BEARING IS ACTUALLY THE TIGHT END OF THE THRUST BEARING! I LEARNED THAT ALONG THE WAY! IT HAD NOT CHANGED INTEGRITY, IT IS A PRESSED PART.