New toy but what options?

[GreatWhitehunter]

I am not bleeding blue and not trying to rain on your parade but I am telling you to carry a extra one in the truck, a 4' piece of 1/4" fuel hose, and a filter wrench. It will strand you sooner or later if you stumble on some bad fuel. I have owned 4 diesel trucks and the only one that stranded me with a plugged filter is the Dmax. Not the trucks problem, just bad fuel I am sure, but it did strand me.

Also get familiar with how to change it on the road. Its not hard but can take a little to learn.

As for the bed liners the only sprayed in one I have had is the factory applied one in my Titan. All my others have had drop in plastic. The Titans all come with them factory applied to the bed and a plastic piece on the tailgate. I am not sure who does them but they are tough. Mine is a year old and still looks like new with zero fading. The truck is actually 2 years old and set on the dealers lot for a year.

Chris

Who said I was refering to you? I just got a quote from Line X and Rhino.
The Line X is $550 and Rhino is $500. The line X guy seemed to know his product better than the Rhino lady. So for $50 bucks I guess it's worth it. But I'm still conflicted on the GN deal. I've got it listed on CL but it's been real hit or miss. I could probably trade it with my PJ dealer but I'm sure I'll be taking a beating. I just want make sure if I add the B&W hitch that I get the bed lined after it's installed.

Matt

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

Here's a belated pic.

Matt

 

[AKfish]

Great lookin' rig! :thumbsup: Same kind as one of mine... Not the PS -- that's now bleeding fuel/oil on my garage floor from a "wounded turbo"! Who built that rig anyway....??

I just finished cutting my rhino bed and installed a B&W gn hitch. I bought a Mirage 15.7K goose-neck in Idaho. With the center pop-up on the 5' beaver-tail. Hoping the the pop-up will make the rear of the trailer more useable (like parking my hoe bucket).

Really went back and forth on the BP-GN debate. I discovered that the Class IV hitch on my truck is rated for 7,500 straight-pull and 12,000 with equalizer hitch. So, I looked into replacing it with a new 2 1/2" receiver rated at 13,000-14,000 -- long story short -- by the time I chased everything down with hitch, and the male receiver, ball, etc.; I was money ahead with the GN.

After I hauled that JD 50D excavator this past fall on my 14K BP -- I was even more convinced that the GN -- was the way to go!

I also bought a tool box/fuel tank combo from these guys: UWS Blue Label Liquid Transfer Combo Tanks - Tank w/ Chest Box - TruckCustomizers.com

Should be hittin' the road any day, now.

(I'll be following Chris's advice on the extra fuel filter and wrench. Although, the 4' of hose is puzzling - must be for siphoning fuel out of the tank...?)

AKfish

 

[Diamondpilot]

The 4' of fuel hose is to attach to the drain petcock on the bottom of the filter and feed down though the wheel well. My filter on my 05 was right above the exhaust manifold so draining off the fuel prior to removal was a safety concern and to keep diesel fuel off everything under the hood.

May not be needed but for $2 in fuel hose its a good thing to have in the filter box.

Chris

 

[bdeboer]

The owners manual on my '08 has a decent description for changing the fuel filter. I carry a channellock style filter wrench with me along with the spare fuel filter. I haven't had any trouble but feel it is a cheap insurance policy.

I think the 1/4" hose is a good idea although I have just stuffed rags underneath the filter in the past. I wouldn't recommend the rags if the truck was warm.

 

[nmu98]

I installed a primary filter on all my Duramax trucks. I would recomend it to the OP. I used a simple Racor kit and used a racor R60T. The filter was 10 bucks toreplace and it was a 10 micron filter. In the summer I would run a R60S (2 micron). These also cross with Parker and other filters so you can get them anywhere. I mounted it on the frame close to where the cab and box meet. Simple place to work on it and easier to drain water if its an issue.

To install I just cut out a 16" peice of the fuel line and put the filter in the center. I used 1/2" ID hose and went over the fule lines with 2 clamps on each side. well worth all the effort and i never had a fuel issue or injector problem. I did have many other issues and I will never own one again....

 

[Diamondpilot]

I installed a primary filter on all my Duramax trucks. I would recomend it to the OP. I used a simple Racor kit and used a racor R60T. The filter was 10 bucks toreplace and it was a 10 micron filter. In the summer I would run a R60S (2 micron). These also cross with Parker and other filters so you can get them anywhere. I mounted it on the frame close to where the cab and box meet. Simple place to work on it and easier to drain water if its an issue.

To install I just cut out a 16" peice of the fuel line and put the filter in the center. I used 1/2" ID hose and went over the fule lines with 2 clamps on each side. well worth all the effort and i never had a fuel issue or injector problem. I did have many other issues and I will never own one again....

That is a good idea. I am seeing a lot of Dodge guys running the Racor's. The local shop mounts them in the left rear wheel well. They have a stainless shield but you can see the filter.

I second you on all the problems.

Chris

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

Great lookin' rig! :thumbsup: Same kind as one of mine... Not the PS -- that's now bleeding fuel/oil on my garage floor from a "wounded turbo"! Who built that rig anyway....??

I just finished cutting my rhino bed and installed a B&W gn hitch. I bought a Mirage 15.7K goose-neck in Idaho. With the center pop-up on the 5' beaver-tail. Hoping the the pop-up will make the rear of the trailer more useable (like parking my hoe bucket).

Really went back and forth on the BP-GN debate. I discovered that the Class IV hitch on my truck is rated for 7,500 straight-pull and 12,000 with equalizer hitch. So, I looked into replacing it with a new 2 1/2" receiver rated at 13,000-14,000 -- long story short -- by the time I chased everything down with hitch, and the male receiver, ball, etc.; I was money ahead with the GN.

After I hauled that JD 50D excavator this past fall on my 14K BP -- I was even more convinced that the GN -- was the way to go!

I also bought a tool box/fuel tank combo from these guys: UWS Blue Label Liquid Transfer Combo Tanks - Tank w/ Chest Box - TruckCustomizers.com

Should be hittin' the road any day, now.

(I'll be following Chris's advice on the extra fuel filter and wrench. Although, the 4' of hose is puzzling - must be for siphoning fuel out of the tank...?)

AKfish

AK, your post got me thinking about my hitch. Sure enough same thing,7500 and 12 wd. Total BS IMO. So now I still need to replace it since I tow my BP dump trailer also. Who makes the best cap factory fit replacement hitch for the GM units?

Matt

 

[Diamondpilot]

AK, your post got me thinking about my hitch. Sure enough same thing,7500 and 12 wd. Total BS IMO. So now I still need to replace it since I tow my BP dump trailer also. Who makes the best cap factory fit replacement hitch for the GM units?

Matt

Matt.

The GM hitches used to be junk and were cantilevered off the rear bumper with a hanger. I am not sure if this is true with your model year. That was the way my 05 was on my SRW 3500 Dmax. Now I know all come with a much heavier 2.5" unit.

I would go with a 2.5" Titan. I have one on my wife's 2004 F-250 and its rated for 15,000#. Same issue with the Fords of that era. It was only rated for about 12,000# and a 2" unit.

Putnam also makes a decent hitch.

Chris

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

It's the 2.5" model but the sticker still says 7500/12000 wd so it's got to go. I'm not into taking chances while towing. My dump trailer has been overloaded on several trips to the quarry. So I don't want to find out my hitch isn't up to snuff while hauling 7 tons of stone. I just want to a make sure the replacement hitch has the same fit and finish of the factory unit.

Matt