datanull
Bronze Member
- Joined
- May 27, 2009
- Messages
- 60
- Tractor
- 2008 Massey Ferguson 1540
I see the DM2020 is a little over 7 foot wide. What HP is your Kiota? Don't forget to update your profile. Which reminds me I need to do the same.
Need to buy a disc
- Thread starter warhammer
- Start date
- Views: 10299
MtnViewRanch
Elite Member, Advertiser
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2005
- Messages
- 10,643
- Tractor
- Mahindra 7520, Mahindra 3215HST, Case 580 extendahoe, Case 310 dozer, Parsons trencher, Cat D6,
That Hay King looks like a nice disk.:thumbsup: You will be happy with the extra weight also. What did it end up costing you?
foggy1111
Elite Member
That Hay King looks well made....and styled allot like my KK. Should prove to be a stout disc. Good luck with it.
$1500 was the cost. That worked out to $83 more than having a Leinbach shipped in. I thought this one looked a bit heavier duty, the delivery time was 2 days instead of two weeks and the manufacturer is literally a 10 minute drive from the farm.
I have 10 acres I am trying to get ready for a spring Bermuda planting so the delivery schedule mattered more than usual.
My Kioti is 45HP. I was worried that this disc would be a bit too much. I disced 2-3 acres yesterday some of it up and down slopes and it seems to lift it and pull it ok. You can tell its back there and while it does feel like the tractor is working it does not feel like its thrashing it.
After verifying that it was aligned with the center of the tractor so it would not pull crooked I set the 3 point to lower and raise somewhat slowly so that it did not slam the disc down or jerk it off the ground when raising or lowering.
I was going to go get a piece of chain to use as a toplink but it seems to pull pretty smoothly as is. I may still try that out of curiosity.
I have 10 acres I am trying to get ready for a spring Bermuda planting so the delivery schedule mattered more than usual.
My Kioti is 45HP. I was worried that this disc would be a bit too much. I disced 2-3 acres yesterday some of it up and down slopes and it seems to lift it and pull it ok. You can tell its back there and while it does feel like the tractor is working it does not feel like its thrashing it.
After verifying that it was aligned with the center of the tractor so it would not pull crooked I set the 3 point to lower and raise somewhat slowly so that it did not slam the disc down or jerk it off the ground when raising or lowering.
I was going to go get a piece of chain to use as a toplink but it seems to pull pretty smoothly as is. I may still try that out of curiosity.
MMagis
Veteran Member
In my opinion you want a rigid top link, not a piece of chain. The top link helps in keeping the rear of the disk down. As the front disks dig into the soil, the rear automatically wants to lift up. I don't think you'll like what happens if you put a chain on there in place of the top link. You may even find yourself wanting a long top link.
DCRC
Silver Member
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2004
- Messages
- 113
- Location
- Manvel, TX (south of Houston)
- Tractor
- Kubota Grand L3830 HST with LA723 FEL and HD bucket
Nice choice. I was lucky enough to find a used heavy duty 6ft Howse on craigslist for $500 that works good for me. I also have 10 acres to work.
All I did was lightly disc and spread fertilzer at about 250 lbs per acre and over seed with Bahia and Bermuda. After some recent rain it is really starting to look good.
Even as heavy as the disc is I added a complete rearend housing out of a mustang I had laying around for a little extra ballast.
Anybody have any tips on using a disc. Wasn't quite sure about the top link. Should you extend it as much as you can to have the rear disc dig in as well? What about going through dips and uneven ground? Don't won't to break the back of my tractor.
JoeinTX
Platinum Member
"In my opinion you want a rigid top link, not a piece of chain. The top link helps in keeping the rear of the disk down. As the front disks dig into the soil, the rear automatically wants to lift up. I don't think you'll like what happens if you put a chain on there in place of the top link. You may even find yourself wanting a long top link. "
Agree 100%. By design the rear gangs will want to ride up and over the tilled ground the front gangs just turned without the rigid downward force of the top link. I understand adjusting lift/drop speed to reduce jerking and slamming it around but you're certainly not going to hurt it by keeping the top adjust as-is and using it as it was designed to be. Otherwise you'll be keeping the fronts engaged and the rears disengaged in the process tossing more soil out than in and ultimately wallowing out your passes. Capiche?
As for the tiller thing, I have no problem with them but they are not a practical, everyday, "every man's" tool for all conditions. At all. I've plowed a lot of ground with discs ranging anywhere from 3pt models to some multiple gangs of one-ways and I really can't think of a more robust and versatile tilling tool than the common disc plow. Reliable. Cheap. Uncomplicated. I've run over everthying from mini-boulders to dead cow carcasses while discing. Wouldn't run either through a tiller w/o an issue.
You don't plow fields with tillers. You don't plow fire guards with tillers. You don't find tillers behind 4wd tractors on construction earthmoving jobs. You do, however, find the regular old disc plow on all of them. Tillers you find most often in gardens and on subdvided ranchettes parked right next to the Prious Hybrid. I'm just saying.....I'm just saying.......
Agree 100%. By design the rear gangs will want to ride up and over the tilled ground the front gangs just turned without the rigid downward force of the top link. I understand adjusting lift/drop speed to reduce jerking and slamming it around but you're certainly not going to hurt it by keeping the top adjust as-is and using it as it was designed to be. Otherwise you'll be keeping the fronts engaged and the rears disengaged in the process tossing more soil out than in and ultimately wallowing out your passes. Capiche?
As for the tiller thing, I have no problem with them but they are not a practical, everyday, "every man's" tool for all conditions. At all. I've plowed a lot of ground with discs ranging anywhere from 3pt models to some multiple gangs of one-ways and I really can't think of a more robust and versatile tilling tool than the common disc plow. Reliable. Cheap. Uncomplicated. I've run over everthying from mini-boulders to dead cow carcasses while discing. Wouldn't run either through a tiller w/o an issue.
You don't plow fields with tillers. You don't plow fire guards with tillers. You don't find tillers behind 4wd tractors on construction earthmoving jobs. You do, however, find the regular old disc plow on all of them. Tillers you find most often in gardens and on subdvided ranchettes parked right next to the Prious Hybrid. I'm just saying.....I'm just saying.......
JoeinTX
Platinum Member
"Anybody have any tips on using a disc. Wasn't quite sure about the top link. Should you extend it as much as you can to have the rear disc dig in as well? What about going through dips and uneven ground? Don't won't to break the back of my tractor."
With 3pts, if you're simply looking to plow a piece of ground or field and maintain it level, then you keep the front and back gangs level with one another while engaged. Whatever depth you want to cut, figure it by watching the furrow (the path you leave behind the plow) and making sure you aren't ridging or wallowing. If you're ridging, leaving a hump of plowed dirt in the middle of your passes, then your back gangs are digging too deep and bring too much soil back toward the center of the plow. Vice versa, if your scalloping out your passes your front gangs are too deep and tossing more soil out than your rear gangs can bring back to the center.
Uneven ground and 3pt discs aren't good friends. If you know how to constantly adjust for the ridge or hump or shallow you're working then you can adjust on the fly. If not you will have to cross-work the ground.
You won't break the "back" of your tractor by which I take it to mean the 3pt top mounting. The top link should and would fail long before you break the cast housing it's mounted to.
PM me DCRC. I wish we were closer and I'd drive on out and do what I could.....
With 3pts, if you're simply looking to plow a piece of ground or field and maintain it level, then you keep the front and back gangs level with one another while engaged. Whatever depth you want to cut, figure it by watching the furrow (the path you leave behind the plow) and making sure you aren't ridging or wallowing. If you're ridging, leaving a hump of plowed dirt in the middle of your passes, then your back gangs are digging too deep and bring too much soil back toward the center of the plow. Vice versa, if your scalloping out your passes your front gangs are too deep and tossing more soil out than your rear gangs can bring back to the center.
Uneven ground and 3pt discs aren't good friends. If you know how to constantly adjust for the ridge or hump or shallow you're working then you can adjust on the fly. If not you will have to cross-work the ground.
You won't break the "back" of your tractor by which I take it to mean the 3pt top mounting. The top link should and would fail long before you break the cast housing it's mounted to.
PM me DCRC. I wish we were closer and I'd drive on out and do what I could.....