Need to buy a disc

[Beavis]

Anyone have a Tractor Supply 6.5 foot disc harrow? If so is it a good unit?
I need to buy a disc and am considering picking up one of the square tube frame models from TSC(link below).

CountyLine Heavy-Duty Disc Harrow - 2128278 | Tractor Supply Company


Warhammer

I've had mine for about 2.5 years now; it is actually a King Kutter, but looks identical. I like it and would recommend it. Paid about $750 for mine.

 

[wingbone]

If the cost is a factor and one considers buying used, I know I see a lot of different 3pt and pull type discs for sale for decent prices. I see very few tillers for sale used and most of those are five footers and the price is usually close to what a new one costs. Of course, I guess it could be argued that you don't see many used tillers for sale because people like them and don't get rid of them.

 

[campwildwood]

I recently purchased the County Line Angle Disc Harrow #2128260 and I'm very pleased with it. I went with the lighter model since I use the disc after I plow, rather than use it on virgin soil.

 

[pitt_md]

Depends on the tiller, depends on the disk, depends on what you have to pull either one. A high horsepower compact will perform better with a tiller harnessing the pto power. You can get 16' wide tillers with tilling depths of about 12 inches.

You may know better than me but I am not aware of a compact tractor that can sport a 16' tiller. Is that a typo?

 

[pitt_md]

Steve, how many acres would you say that you can till before having to replace the tines, the u joints, then the tines again, maybe a gear box etc?

I can't answer your question directly but i can tell you that after tilling 10 acres +- my Befco tiller does not need anything replaced. For those that do not know 10 acres is a heck of a lot to till. Maybe i should qualify my statement by adding that all but a couple acres was plowed first.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I can't answer your question directly but i can tell you that after tilling 10 acres +- my Befco tiller does not need anything replaced. For those that do not know 10 acres is a heck of a lot to till. Maybe i should qualify my statement by adding that all but a couple acres was plowed first.

I would hope not, but how many acres can they till before it needs repair? I know that I have less than $2000 in my used 8' offset rebuilt JD disk and will be able to disk thousands of acres before I have to do anything else to them but grease the bearings. :thumbsup: Can anyone with any tiller honestly say the same?

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I would hate to till 10 acres. I would also hate using a disc harrow to "till" up 10 acres to the depth and fineness of a tiller. But if I just needed to scratch it up enough to plant some "jig" grass, I use the disc after 1st spraying roundup.

Hope you got a bunch of time to spare.

 

[rootytoot]

Along the lines of this discussion, does anyone have a rule of thumb for how many horsepower required to pull each foot of disc width? I have a Ford 1920, with 31 horsepower available. I'm guessing that a five footer is probably all that I can figure on pulling.

Kurt

 

[MtnViewRanch]

There are to many variables to be able to say with any accuracy at all. I think that type of disk, (tandem or offset) and weight per disk blade would be a better gauge, but I don't think that anyone has ever come up with a rule of thumb for this. Yes you could probably pull a 5 footer, but with how big of disk blades. I believe that you can get a disk that size with 18", 20", 22" and 24" disk blades. And then how thick are the blades, the heavier blades are about twice as thick as the thinner ones, and with heavier blades usually comes a heavier frame work. Do you want a tandem disk or an offset disk? How much does your tractor weigh, what type of tires do you have, R1s, R4s?

I think if you give your detailed tractor info and type of disk that you want, then maybe someone can tell you what has worked for them.

Sorry that I am unable to help you out. :confused3:

 

[warhammer]

I ended up going with a Hay King 2020 3 point disc.
It is manufactured locally in Central Texas. At about 900 pounds it weighs more than the Leinbach and TSC Discs I was looking at. It has the option of adding scrapers which is something I like given the clay soil on my farm.
Pics below. I guess I should have taken some snaps before it got dirty. Maybe next time. ;o}

They look ok. Have you looked at any others?

 

[datanull]

I see the DM2020 is a little over 7 foot wide. What HP is your Kiota? Don't forget to update your profile. Which reminds me I need to do the same.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

That Hay King looks like a nice disk.:thumbsup: You will be happy with the extra weight also. What did it end up costing you?

 

[foggy1111]

That Hay King looks well made....and styled allot like my KK. Should prove to be a stout disc. Good luck with it.

 

[warhammer]

$1500 was the cost. That worked out to $83 more than having a Leinbach shipped in. I thought this one looked a bit heavier duty, the delivery time was 2 days instead of two weeks and the manufacturer is literally a 10 minute drive from the farm.
I have 10 acres I am trying to get ready for a spring Bermuda planting so the delivery schedule mattered more than usual.
My Kioti is 45HP. I was worried that this disc would be a bit too much. I disced 2-3 acres yesterday some of it up and down slopes and it seems to lift it and pull it ok. You can tell its back there and while it does feel like the tractor is working it does not feel like its thrashing it.
After verifying that it was aligned with the center of the tractor so it would not pull crooked I set the 3 point to lower and raise somewhat slowly so that it did not slam the disc down or jerk it off the ground when raising or lowering.
I was going to go get a piece of chain to use as a toplink but it seems to pull pretty smoothly as is. I may still try that out of curiosity.

That Hay King looks like a nice disk.:thumbsup: You will be happy with the extra weight also. What did it end up costing you?

 

[MMagis]

I was going to go get a piece of chain to use as a toplink but it seems to pull pretty smoothly as is. I may still try that out of curiosity.

In my opinion you want a rigid top link, not a piece of chain. The top link helps in keeping the rear of the disk down. As the front disks dig into the soil, the rear automatically wants to lift up. I don't think you'll like what happens if you put a chain on there in place of the top link. You may even find yourself wanting a long top link.

 

[DCRC]

I ended up going with a Hay King 2020 3 point disc.
It is manufactured locally in Central Texas. At about 900 pounds it weighs more than the Leinbach and TSC Discs I was looking at. It has the option of adding scrapers which is something I like given the clay soil on my farm.
Pics below. I guess I should have taken some snaps before it got dirty. Maybe next time. ;o}

Nice choice. I was lucky enough to find a used heavy duty 6ft Howse on craigslist for $500 that works good for me. I also have 10 acres to work.

All I did was lightly disc and spread fertilzer at about 250 lbs per acre and over seed with Bahia and Bermuda. After some recent rain it is really starting to look good.

Even as heavy as the disc is I added a complete rearend housing out of a mustang I had laying around for a little extra ballast.

Anybody have any tips on using a disc. Wasn't quite sure about the top link. Should you extend it as much as you can to have the rear disc dig in as well? What about going through dips and uneven ground? Don't won't to break the back of my tractor.

 

[JoeinTX]

"In my opinion you want a rigid top link, not a piece of chain. The top link helps in keeping the rear of the disk down. As the front disks dig into the soil, the rear automatically wants to lift up. I don't think you'll like what happens if you put a chain on there in place of the top link. You may even find yourself wanting a long top link. "

Agree 100%. By design the rear gangs will want to ride up and over the tilled ground the front gangs just turned without the rigid downward force of the top link. I understand adjusting lift/drop speed to reduce jerking and slamming it around but you're certainly not going to hurt it by keeping the top adjust as-is and using it as it was designed to be. Otherwise you'll be keeping the fronts engaged and the rears disengaged in the process tossing more soil out than in and ultimately wallowing out your passes. Capiche?

As for the tiller thing, I have no problem with them but they are not a practical, everyday, "every man's" tool for all conditions. At all. I've plowed a lot of ground with discs ranging anywhere from 3pt models to some multiple gangs of one-ways and I really can't think of a more robust and versatile tilling tool than the common disc plow. Reliable. Cheap. Uncomplicated. I've run over everthying from mini-boulders to dead cow carcasses while discing. Wouldn't run either through a tiller w/o an issue.

You don't plow fields with tillers. You don't plow fire guards with tillers. You don't find tillers behind 4wd tractors on construction earthmoving jobs. You do, however, find the regular old disc plow on all of them. Tillers you find most often in gardens and on subdvided ranchettes parked right next to the Prious Hybrid. I'm just saying.....I'm just saying.......

 

[JoeinTX]

"Anybody have any tips on using a disc. Wasn't quite sure about the top link. Should you extend it as much as you can to have the rear disc dig in as well? What about going through dips and uneven ground? Don't won't to break the back of my tractor."

With 3pts, if you're simply looking to plow a piece of ground or field and maintain it level, then you keep the front and back gangs level with one another while engaged. Whatever depth you want to cut, figure it by watching the furrow (the path you leave behind the plow) and making sure you aren't ridging or wallowing. If you're ridging, leaving a hump of plowed dirt in the middle of your passes, then your back gangs are digging too deep and bring too much soil back toward the center of the plow. Vice versa, if your scalloping out your passes your front gangs are too deep and tossing more soil out than your rear gangs can bring back to the center.

Uneven ground and 3pt discs aren't good friends. If you know how to constantly adjust for the ridge or hump or shallow you're working then you can adjust on the fly. If not you will have to cross-work the ground.

You won't break the "back" of your tractor by which I take it to mean the 3pt top mounting. The top link should and would fail long before you break the cast housing it's mounted to.

PM me DCRC. I wish we were closer and I'd drive on out and do what I could.....

 

[warhammer]

Thanks for the posts. I was wondering what the right way to adjust the front to back was as well.

"Anybody have any tips on using a disc. Wasn't quite sure about the top link. Should you extend it as much as you can to have the rear disc dig in as well? What about going through dips and uneven ground? Don't won't to break the back of my tractor."

With 3pts, if you're simply looking to plow a piece of ground or field and maintain it level, then you keep the front and back gangs level with one another while engaged. Whatever depth you want to cut, figure it by watching the furrow (the path you leave behind the plow) and making sure you aren't ridging or wallowing. If you're ridging, leaving a hump of plowed dirt in the middle of your passes, then your back gangs are digging too deep and bring too much soil back toward the center of the plow. Vice versa, if your scalloping out your passes your front gangs are too deep and tossing more soil out than your rear gangs can bring back to the center.

Uneven ground and 3pt discs aren't good friends. If you know how to constantly adjust for the ridge or hump or shallow you're working then you can adjust on the fly. If not you will have to cross-work the ground.

You won't break the "back" of your tractor by which I take it to mean the 3pt top mounting. The top link should and would fail long before you break the cast housing it's mounted to.

PM me DCRC. I wish we were closer and I'd drive on out and do what I could.....