Best Hydraulic oil to use in New Holland

[Soundguy]

Alot of it depends on the dealer.

As has been said.. when I have apiece of equipment in warranty.. it gets serviced by the book to make sur ethere are no issues.. past that, I usually keep dealer filters.. though go to non oem oils. For instance.. I have a NH7610s that had a deceftive remote pack.. one remote didn't work correctly... didn't find it till after warranty was up ( never needed both remotes ).. ended up being a flaw in the pilot circuit.. a physical defect.. etc. At the time we were chasing the problem, the svc manager knew I used walmart oil, and I specifically asked him if it was an issue.. He told me the hyds on my machine looked great, tested out to the correct psi and were otherwise fine.. the defect was just that.. a defect.. not a lube issue... fortunately he found me a salvage valve pack from a wrecked machines and saved me a few hundred bucks onthe repair.

soundguy

Think again. Times have changed and a lot of dealers are looking to make money anywhere they can. My dealer tried to deny a warranty claim on my tractor, that took them over 3 months to figure out, because I had red fuel in it.
I bought my fuel fresh every month from the same supplier they got theirs from too. BUT my transfer tank is filtered. They use a barrel that is also used when they have to drain the tank on tractors. If fuel was dirty they did it.
They also tried to deny warranty on a leaky hydraulic o ring saying my oil was contaminated.
Probably from having my tractor for 3 months in their shop again trying to figure out why it wouldn't stay running. They told me they hooked it to several implements to load it and let it sit running.

I'm going to switch hydraulic fluids this month too. I'm looking for the right one to get and considering amsoil. I'm not paying what our local dealer wants ever again.

 

[djradz]

Todd, if you are approaching the 50 hour service. There is no recommendation to change the hydraulic fluid. This change is only for the filters according to NH's maintenance schedule. The first change interval for hydraulic fluid is at 300 hours. If you are at 300 hours, I would sure use NH 134D or NH F200. You will find that when you remove both sump drain plugs, you'll only drain off about 7.5 to 8 gallons. You will probably have plenty of oil if you buy a 5 gallon pail and a 2-1/2 gallon pail. You don't need 10 gallons. However, if you are going to do the front differential and drop boxes, you'll need more fluid and 10 gallons might come in handy. Just be sure that when you refill the hydraulic reservoir, you put in about 7.5 gallons and run the tractor for a minute and then recheck the level.

Jim/Anyone, is there a way to get more than the approximately 7.5 gallons out of the main section than just by using the two plugs? I see there is a section near the front of the tranny that has no plug to drain it and may contain as much as a half-gallon or more. Can't see why NH didn't put one of the drains there. Seems like I recall a plate with about 20 or more screws about half way back on the tranny that although won't help to drain anything more than the two plugs, might provide access for getting a hose in so one could reach the front otherwise inaccessible section. Thoughts???

 

[MikePA]

Short of having the tractor on a ramp so the oil flows back to a drain plug I can't think of any way to do this. Of course, having it on a ramp would probably cause oil to pool somewhere else and not get drained. 0.5 gallons left in out of 7.5 gallon total means you drained out almost 94% of the old oil. Good enough for me.

 

[RickB]

Jim/Anyone, is there a way to get more than the approximately 7.5 gallons out of the main section than just by using the two plugs? I see there is a section near the front of the tranny that has no plug to drain it and may contain as much as a half-gallon or more. Can't see why NH didn't put one of the drains there. Seems like I recall a plate with about 20 or more screws about half way back on the tranny that although won't help to drain anything more than the two plugs, might provide access for getting a hose in so one could reach the front otherwise inaccessible section. Thoughts???

A Class III 4WD New Holland has three drain plugs to drain the transmission, rear axle center section, and 4WD drop box.

 

[jinman]

A Class III 4WD New Holland has three drain plugs to drain the transmission, rear axle center section, and 4WD drop box.

In the spirit of "I can split this hair thinner than you can," there are 4 drains on tractors with a mid-PTO attachment.:laughing: The illustration showing locations is attached.

The Owner's Manual only calls out two drains for the Class III Boomers, perhaps because the 4wd drop box and mid-PTO probably hold less than a pint of fluid each. Even if they held a quart, you will rarely see over 8 gallons drained even though the Owner's Manual says the reservoir for an HST holds 9.6 gal and the 12x12 transmission holds 9.2 gal. If you add the volume of fluid in the filters, main pump, hydraulic lines, HST transmission, transmission cooler, 3PH, maybe loader and backhoe, I can see where at least 1-1/2 gal of fluid might be trapped. I just accept the fact that I'm going to have 20% old fluid remain in the system when I add 80% fresh. It is what it is and I don't lose any sleep over it.:thumbsup:

 

[djradz]

Rick and Jim, thanks for the informative replies. I must somehow have missed them and got real busy back in early March, or whatever other weak excuse might fit. Anyway, I'm not sure where I got the idea of only two drains, if from the manual or just a quick visual check or what. Jim, the copy of the diagram from the service manual was extremely helpful. Now that the weather is warming, I'm getting ready to tackle this job.

I understand that I won't get out all the fluid, but I've had somewhat unsatisfactory hydraulic 3 pt response in the winter and so I'm switching to Amsoil synthetic multigrade, hoping for some improvement. I've bought plenty of fluid so I'm hoping to get out as much of the old fluid as I possibly can.

With that in mind, would you agree, to drain the 3 pt lift, internal cylinder, I should lower the links? Or doesn't it matter, even though the cylinder only operates in one direction under pressure, do they fill the back side of the piston with fluid (like a two-way) anyway?

Thanks as always for all the continued great information.

 

[Soundguy]

most 3pt hyd cyls are a 'loose' piston in a bore.. when it's at rest it is bottomed out at the back of the bore with very little oil behind it.

soundguy

 

[jinman]

With that in mind, would you agree, to drain the 3 pt lift, internal cylinder, I should lower the links? Or doesn't it matter, even though the cylinder only operates in one direction under pressure, do they fill the back side of the piston with fluid (like a two-way) anyway?

Yep, you might get a half-pint to a pint more fluid with the 3PH lowered. On the tractor, the major amount of oil will be in the HST and cooler, with some trapped in the PTO plumbing and the main hydraulic plumbing. The rest will be in the loader and joystick plumbing. You could disconnect fittings and drain oil, but the likelihood of ending up with a leak far outweighs the usefulness of draining every last available drop of fluid. You will have about 85% Amsoil in your system just by draining and refilling. If you do it again in 300 hours, you will end up with over 95% Amsoil. I think trying to get every drop of the old oil out is a lot of grief for a little bit of gain and not worth the hassle.

 

[bp fick]

Yep, you might get a half-pint to a pint more fluid with the 3PH lowered. On the tractor, the major amount of oil will be in the HST and cooler, with some trapped in the PTO plumbing and the main hydraulic plumbing. The rest will be in the loader and joystick plumbing. You could disconnect fittings and drain oil, but the likelihood of ending up with a leak far outweighs the usefulness of draining every last available drop of fluid. You will have about 85% Amsoil in your system just by draining and refilling. If you do it again in 300 hours, you will end up with over 95% Amsoil. I think trying to get every drop of the old oil out is a lot of grief for a little bit of gain and not worth the hassle.

That's good advice there. My wife's Honda is similar. You only drain 40% of the ATF at any one time. I've dropped that 40% every 12 months, according to the service schedule when towing. Over 10 years, that's 10 times. It gets "changed", but only a percentage at any one time, which keeps me on my toes about doing it regularly. A nice drain plug, with magnet, BTW, a feature I wish all cars had on the automatic transmissions.