OP
montehill
New member
I agree 100 percent!
Yanmar 1610D Front Knuckle Seal Replacement Question
- Thread starter montehill
- Start date
- Views: 13649
-
- Tags
- yanmar 1610d
I agree 100 percent!
OP
montehill
New member
I hope mine comes off that easy. I'll make sure I'm ready to catch it when it does.
OP
montehill
New member
Hi Aaron,
Thanks for your help on the phone the other day. I received the exhaust seals, bolt kit and front knuckle seals right on time. I hope I get time to tackle replacing the seals this weekend. I got tied up with the muffler replacement, changing the hydraulic fluid and cleaning the filter this past weekend. That really needed to be done. Performance was degrading and the filter was black!
jlinn1
Bronze Member
Monte,
If you get a chance you should take pics of the seal replacement, I need to do the same on my 1610D and the pics would help a bunch.
Justin
If you get a chance you should take pics of the seal replacement, I need to do the same on my 1610D and the pics would help a bunch.
Justin
OP
montehill
New member
Justin,
I cleaned the front knuckles this afternoon with some engine degreaser. They were in dire need of a good cleaning. I plan to replace the seals tomorrow (Saturday). I will take some pictures of the process. This will be a first for me. I've never done anything like this before. I have a friend on standby to help me in case I need a hand. I'll post the pictures, along with any helpful information/tips I learn, for you to review.
Monte
OP
montehill
New member
I replaced the front knuckle seals today (Saturday). It took me all afternoon but I got it done and the 1610D is running fine. I'll monitor the seals over the next few days to make sure they are not leaking. I'm glad I went ahead and did it. As it turned out, it was a relatively easy job. Thanks for all the help. I really appreciate the members of this forum. I don't think I would have tried doing it myself without your help and encouragement. Thanks!
OP
montehill
New member
Hello Justin,
I replaced the front knuckle seals today. It was a relatively easy job and I didn't run into any major problems. I have attached some pictures for you to view. After jacking up the tractor I used a couple of jackstands to secure the tractor. I drained the oil out of the center drain first. I removed the wheel before draining the oil from the knuckle. That keeps the oil from running out onto the wheel. Be careful not to lose the o-rings on each if the drain plugs. After you drain the oil, remove the four bolts holding the lower knuckle. As you can see in the first picture, I used a short 6x6, 2x6 and some 1x3's placed under the knuckle to keep it from falling when I removed the four bolts that attach the upper and lower housings. I used a rubber mallet to help get the knuckle to drop off. I also used a screw driver to assist with the removal, being careful not the break anything. The knuckle dropped onto the wooden support fairly easily. It took a few pretty good hits with the mallet to get it to drop. Once the knuckle is off be sure you locate the washer that fits over the spline. It will probably be lying in the lower knuckle. You can see the washer in the second picture. I used a couple of screw drivers to pry the seal out of the knuckle. I forget to take a picture with the seal removed. You can see the old seal in the second and third picture. The seal has a metal ring encased in the rubber. On my tractor, the metal ring was exposed around the outer edges of the seal. It was probably due to years of wear. I got the screw driver started under the metal part of the seal and after a little effort was able to pry the entire seal out. After cleaning around the lip of the knuckle were the seal seats I put a thin layer of oil on the seal and used the mallet to GENTLY seat the new seal in place. I put some oil on the spline and on the inside of the seal to make it slide onto the upper assembly a little easier. I then reattached the lower knuckle to the upper and bolted it back in place. I did find it helpful to use the 1x3's as leverage to help raise the knuckle. I mounted the wheel and then repeated this process on the other side. I hope this helps you. There may be a better way to do this but this worked for me. Let me know if you have any questions. I'll be glad to help if I can.
Monte
Attachments
Looks like a job well done. Glad it went well for you. I found after filling with fluid and using some the level dropped a little. Had to top off a couple of different times after running awhile. Don't know if air pockets form with the 90 weight or just what. Something you might think about.
normde2001
Elite Member
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2002
- Messages
- 4,163
I have read that that is the normal filling procedure. There should be a vent screw to remove and speed up the process.
OP
montehill
New member
I will keep that in mind and check the fluid level frequently over the next few weeks. The manual I have for the 1610 list the capacity of the front gear box/axle as 3.17 quarts. It actually took a little more than that to get it close to the full mark on the dip stick. Maybe a little less that 3.5 quarts. I had a similar experience when changing the hydraulic/transmission fluid. Is that common?
