Securing the bottom of a pair of sliding barn doors?

[jcaron2]

I had a horse barn with a concrete center aisle that was 1.5" above the door aprons. When the builder poured the aprons, he used wood to form 1.5"x1.5" (2x2 stock) protrusion in the concrete about one foot wide. The ends tapered down to the level of the apron but it was square front and back. The protrusion was spaced away from the concrete floor so that the doors would slide behind it. Make sense?

When the doors were closed, you would guide them into the gap to minimize scraping the concrete. I then used one of those chains with the tapered bars to latch the center and the canterlevered latches on the side. Of course, this would not allow outside opening.

Yeah, that would have been the right way to do it. I thought of it - several months too late unfortunately. It probably would have been cost-effective to do it when I did the slab, but now it would just be a lot of work and a good bit of money. Hindsight's always 20-20.

 

[QRTRHRS]

Yeah, that would have been the right way to do it. I thought of it - several months too late unfortunately. It probably would have been cost-effective to do it when I did the slab, but now it would just be a lot of work and a good bit of money. Hindsight's always 20-20.

The next barn right? Just like houses, you could build several barns and discover later on things that could have been different.

 

[dcyrilc]

Have you considered poaring a concrete approach to the doors? If so, you could put a channel into it and a wheel on the leading edge of the door at the bottom which would roll in the track. As the top of the channel would be at grade, the horses shouldn't trip over it and there is nothing to bend.

 

[jcaron2]

Have you considered poaring a concrete approach to the doors? If so, you could put a channel into it and a wheel on the leading edge of the door at the bottom which would roll in the track. As the top of the channel would be at grade, the horses shouldn't trip over it and there is nothing to bend.

Cyril, great suggestion. It's similar to what QRTRHRS was saying a few posts back. Where were you 8 months ago when I was having the slab poured and could have easily done it then?

Actually, it would have interfered somewhat with my technique for hanging the doors, but I'm sure I could have figure a way around it.

Have you made any progress on your barn yet this summer, or are you still holding off until the economy improves for you?

 

[dcyrilc]

Cyril, great suggestion. It's similar to what QRTRHRS was saying a few posts back. Where were you 8 months ago when I was having the slab poured and could have easily done it then?

Are these for the stall doors or the outside doors? I assumed outside. Doesn't the slab currently end with the edge of the building? I would poar a slab in front of the doors and put the wheel on the outside. I'll make a picture if you need.

If these are the stall doors, there are other solutions.

Actually, it would have interfered somewhat with my technique for hanging the doors, but I'm sure I could have figure a way around it.

Again, wheel on outside and installed after door is hung.

Have you made any progress on your barn yet this summer, or are you still holding off until the economy improves for you?

Haven't done anything on the barn yet. Too wet and too broke. What little I have had to spare, I have put into working on the tractor. I bought it last September or so knowing it had issues. Right now I have the 3PH torn apart so I can rebuild it. I hope to have it reassembled this weekend. Here's the thread: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/174760-jd-2240-rebuilding-my-3-a.html

 

[jcaron2]

Are these for the stall doors or the outside doors? I assumed outside. Doesn't the slab currently end with the edge of the building? I would poar a slab in front of the doors and put the wheel on the outside. I'll make a picture if you need.

Cyril, you're exactly right. I just meant that it would have been quite easy to implement your suggestion if I'd thought of it back when the slab was initially being poured. Now it would probably be 30-40 bags of concrete and a big ol' pain in the butt.

 

[dcyrilc]

Cyril, you're exactly right. I just meant that it would have been quite easy to implement your suggestion if I'd thought of it back when the slab was initially being poured. Now it would probably be 30-40 bags of concrete and a big ol' pain in the butt.

Now you just have me rolling with laughter. :laughing: :laughing:

30-40 bags would be just getting warmed up. You're forgetting that I was buying it 2 pallets (56 bags/pallet) at a time last year...and mixing that every other week. :laughing: :laughing: I mixed 24 tons that way last summer. :confused2:

Yeah, I know, I'm crazy. Anyone who knows me will tell you that. :laughing:

I have another idea which might be easier. I'll try to remember to draw something up when I get home tonight so I can post a pic for you to see.

 

[jcaron2]

Now you just have me rolling with laughter. :laughing: :laughing:

30-40 bags would be just getting warmed up. You're forgetting that I was buying it 2 pallets (56 bags/pallet) at a time last year...and mixing that every other week. :laughing: :laughing: I mixed 24 tons that way last summer. :confused2:

Yeah, I know, I'm crazy. Anyone who knows me will tell you that. :laughing:

I have another idea which might be easier. I'll try to remember to draw something up when I get home tonight so I can post a pic for you to see.

I knew you'd be laughing.

 

[dcyrilc]

I knew you'd be laughing.

Now it's my turn to make you laugh.

My drawing with paint kinda sucks, but this might give you an idea what I'm thinking. It's a piece of channel welded onto a piece of plate which is bolted to the endface of the slab. May not work as shown, but might give you some ideas.:thumbsup:

 

[whitedogone]

The best solution is from National

US Patent 4081880 - Lower guide for horizontally sliding door

I always drill post holes along the door opening and dig a trench and do a grade beam along with a steel angle to protect the front edge and to give the door support along it's entire length. Then sink a 6x6 in front of that in the middle and mount one of the above to the top.