3320 300 hour review

[ChuckinNH]

Thanks KB... I know you are sometimes not around for a while, and I knew you would get back to me when you could. I think I am going to go with a rear blower too. I could buy the rear blower, and the frame mounted front blade for about the same price as the heavier front mounted blower.

 

[Killer_B]

I am sure you will be happy with that setup. The Kub front frame mount system is both elegant and tough. Be sure to post photos and a review!

KB

 

[Nuru]

What model optima is that?

i want to know the same thing. I definitely will switch to that upon a BATT failure.

 

[WH401]

i want to know the same thing. I definitely will switch to that upon a BATT failure.

It should be an Optima Yellow-Top model: D51R. If I recall, that was the particular Optima that was the closest in "specs" to the JD battery. That's what I'll be replacing my battery with when it dies, but so far the original JD hasn't given me anymore trouble.

 

[Nuru]

Thanks WH401, i am in the same status.

 

[Pushing_Tin]

I have a 2010 model 3320, can I expect battery issues at some point or was this issue resolved on later models? I have just under 10 hours now.

 

[dlgator]

I have a 2006 JD 3320 hydro.
After about a year and a half my John Deere battery just up and died one day, luckily while I was in the back yard. I shut it off to grab some lunch and when I returned it would not crank, no prior warning signs. When I went to remove the battery I noticed that it had bubbled over and corroded the battery tray and everything in the area. Maybe this was happening over a period of time as I don't recall specifically checking the battery because there were no problems starting (my fault for not checking sooner). I wanted to replace with original equipment so I got a brand new JD replacement, same model. I watched this closely and in no time it started to do the same thing. I took it back to the JD dealer and got my money back, bought a non-JD brand replacement and have little trouble with this one.
This tractor has been awesome otherwise; I blame the battery design, not the tractor.

 

[Rob-D]

I have a 2010 model 3320, can I expect battery issues at some point or was this issue resolved on later models? I have just under 10 hours now.

Yes, Check your battery. You'll see a tube running down from the cap area to allow water/acid to flow away from the tractor.

This is why I love Deere, they're a pain in a lot of ways but they are a rock solid company. They fix the bugs.
Rob

 

[Pushing_Tin]

Yes, Check your battery. You'll see a tube running down from the cap area to allow water/acid to flow away from the tractor.

This is why I love Deere, they're a pain in a lot of ways but they are a rock solid company. They fix the bugs.
Rob

Good to hear, too bad we can't +rep people on this site, I'd give you some. :thumbsup:

 

[DennisH]

I have a 3320 on the way and will keep the battery thing in mind for down the road problems.

Now me talk about batteries, I have a 2003 D'max with a RH battery tray that I replaced due to battery corrosion, a 1996 Monaco RV that needs new pull out battery trays due to battery corrosion and you guys have newer tractors with battery trays that have corrosion problems.

So what do all of these have in common? They are using lead-acid or flooded cell type batteries that vent while charging. I never gave it much thought until I started fighting battery corrosion on two fronts. Replace that flooded cell battery with a AGM (Optima) type battery and your corrosion problem will go away. Cost a little more but in the long run well worth it.

It cost me $120 in parts to replace the battery tray on the D'max.