Getting tired of hydraulics- Another help needed thread

[AKKAMAAN]

Well, Now that we have established that I do have work port valves, whats the next step? Could these have a problem, or could they need adjusted?

If I have access to them, can I just unscrew the work port valve from the valve body and remove it to inspect it, or are there small parts like springs and other things that will fall out if I unscrew it?

yes just take them apart and clean...expect springs and washers, but i think the relief valves will come out as cartridges...the other two with just a hex cap is probo
is probably just load check valves...spring and a poppet..

 

[xrjohndeere]

Just a suggestion. Do you have the hoses hooked to the wrong ports. I hooked the old loader off my older johndeere tractor to my new one and went by the colors. They were wrong. The loader acted the same way you are describing. After I hooked the hose up to the correct ports it worked fine. I thought that if you just put a hose in the wrong port it would just function reverse of what it should, but that was not the case. Hope this helps.

 

[AKKAMAAN]

This is what you can expect coming out....MY PICTURE SHOWS ANOTHER VALVE, but still shows how theses valve are attached to the work port....


You might have use for a narrow magnet "picker-upper", to get the check valve poppet to come out..

 

[futuresweets10]

So in theory I can take the secondary out and it should be self contained. All small parts that can fall out will be inside of it?

 

[AKKAMAAN]

So in theory I can take the secondary out and it should be self contained. All small parts that can fall out will be inside of it?

....IF it really is a cartridge valve, which I think it is....only the load check vale spring and poppet should be separated from the cartridge....put the wrench on the inside largest hex....stay organized...check the order it comes out, and put it back together the same way...You are in good shape if the valve is disconnected from the tractor...but it is well do-able on the tractor too...

 

[futuresweets10]

....IF it really is a cartridge valve, which I think it is....only the load check vale spring and poppet should be separated from the cartridge....put the wrench on the inside largest hex....stay organized...check the order it comes out, and put it back together the same way...You are in good shape if the valve is disconnected from the tractor...but it is well do-able on the tractor too...

Valve assembly is back on the machine which is what pisses me off the most... I paid a shop to re-do everything on the valves and I had countless hours in removing the valves and re-installing.... And now I have to go back and do what I paid them to do with the **** thing on the machine.

 

[wdchyd]

Valve assembly is back on the machine which is what pisses me off the most... I paid a shop to re-do everything on the valves and I had countless hours in removing the valves and re-installing.... And now I have to go back and do what I paid them to do with the **** thing on the machine.

Another good reason to troubleshoot with gauges rather than "Eyeball Detective", at least you'll have pressure readings before and after you take it apart and it'll give you good exposure to proper troubleshooting techniques ....Could this be Deja Vu or am I imagining this has been suggested before????:confused2:

 

[futuresweets10]

Another good reason to troubleshoot with guages rather than "Eyeball Detective", at least you'll have pressure readings before and after you take it apart and it'll give you good exposure to proper troubleshooting techniques ....Could this be Deja Vu or am I imagining this has been suggested before????:confused2:

I did get a gauge and I have been using it some. Im no expert on this and dont really know what I would be looking for testing with this problem using a gauge. I could put a gauge on the line going to the cylinder, but I already know its not getting pressure, so thats not going to tell me why it isnt. Not argueing with you, just not experienced enough to know how.... BTW, I might not be able to use a gauge, but I can spell it right...:laughing: (sorry, I had to)

 

[wdchyd]

Take the hoses off tilt cyl and attach gauge to end of hose where it hooks up to cyl....deadhead it up to pressure....it should read what the PRV is set at..and it should hold pressure when spool is returned to neutral....check both sides....(if you have only 1 gauge then do them separately)....if they go up and hold then your problem is not your control valve....then repack hyd cyl....if no pressure or is not holding then keep digging in that DCV....

 

[futuresweets10]

Take the hoses off tilt cyl and attach gauge to end of hose where it hooks up to cyl....deadhead it up to pressure....it should read what the PRV is set at..and it should hold pressure when spool is returned to neutral....check both sides....(if you have only 1 gauge then do them separately)....if they go up and hold then your problem is not your control valve....then repack hyd cyl....if no pressure or is not holding then keep digging in that DCV....

The way its acting makes it impossible to be the cylinder. Its leaking down on one side only, that means its not bypassing. The only way it could be the cylinder is if it were leaking externally, but its not.