new owner needs PTO help

[stevem5215]

The 1720 might not have a two stage clutch. I know on my 1900 that it was a option. And mine does grind when trying to engage the pto lever if I don't let everything spin down to a stop. There's no syncromesh on these trannys.

Steve

 

[jbford]

the lil pedal below the brake is a spring-return throttle pedal to use if you need to give it a little goose if the engine bogs. Let off of it and the throttle goes back to it's original setting.

the diff lock is located behind your left heel.

Yes, you prob. need to adjust the clutch pedal linkage. it is a two stage clutch. push in part way and it disengages the drive, push it all the way to the floor to disengage drive and pto. You just unscrew the locking nut and screw the linkage a few turns, then tighten down the lock nut. (I have no clue which way to go.)

You start with the clutch pushed in all the way, then slowly release clutch till pto kicks in. let it get up to speed (just takes a second), then slowly let clutch out all the way. Practice first in a low range...it takes practice to do it in 12th gear.

Yep, you must be stopped to shift gears or ranges!!!

You can't always shift gears, go from 2 to 4wd and turn pto on/off all at same time. Push clutch in, move pto lever or 2/4wd lever, let out half way, depress fully again then change gears.

(owned 1510 for 25 years...great little tractors)

 

[lilranch2001]

Well I just left my farm...I got the PTO to engage....It wasn't easy.....quite a bit of grinding, but it did engage.....Didn't sound normal.

Looking at the pedal linkage....it looks like a simple adjustment to increase the throw of the pedal....I just ran out of light.

I hope the manuals i pick up tomorrow will explain this procedure.

I sure hope this is all i have to do......spending 1K on a tractor that I only paid 4K for doesnt sound right....Oh well.....JC the tractor does have just over 2000 hrs on it...

And buy the way.....Tractor supply doesnt have manuals for any Ford tractor built after 1940....in case you needed to know.....Sent my wife.....boy that was an interesting phone call

I bought my 1953 8N manual there 10 years ago

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

the diff lock is located behind your left heel.

Are you sure about that. Mine is behind my right heel
Bill

 

[JC-jetro]

Are you sure about that. Mine is behind my right heel
Bill

Ditto Bill. my diffy lock is on my right heel as well.

Sean, TSC does do special order on the ones they don't have on hand. They happened to have a copy of IT FO-44 on the shelf when i bought it 5 years ago. I sure do all I can to avoid a tractor split. if you ask a shop to change the clutch for you, they probably do it but you want to make sure you need it first. On several thread guys gave you instruction on how you test it out, read the manual, do all the test and report back. Hopefully, adjustment is all you need.

JC,


JC,

 

[seanhoffman]

Will do.....

I live in metro Georgia....our Tractor Supply Stores here have minimal tractor gear.....they cater to the horse crowd.....clothes, horse feed and the like.....I'm headn to a dealer...

I'll report back

Thanks again............Sean

 

[jbford]

I may be L/R challenged! Anyhow, it is at one of your heels.

 

[djradz]

1720s had two different shift options, 12x12 Shuttle or 12x4 standard, but both had the 2-stage PTO clutch. To shift the PTO, clutch pedal MUST be pushed all the way to the floor-board. If grinding still is ocurring, then adjustment is probably needed. I could not however find the procedure listed in the 1720 O&M manual so you'll probably need to get a service manual or see if your dealer will let you copy the few pages from one they likely have.

On a related note, the tractor SHOULD NOT start with the PTO engaged. Even on the 20+ year old 1720s, that was a safety interlock.

 

[JC-jetro]

1

On a related note, the tractor SHOULD NOT start with the PTO engaged. Even on the 20+ year old 1720s, that was a safety interlock.

I totally agree if there is a load attached to the final pto shaft(Ie. brush hog...). The purpose for my suggestion was to see if pto turns and trying to avoid grinding without it actually hooked to any implement . I don't have factory PTO safety switch on my 1700. In trying to see if my pto sliding coupler engages properly, I can with the engine off, clutch and engage the pto, I then with engine off can turn by hand PTO final shaft in one direction ( CCW) and not the other way. in that fix, without anything attached to pto I can then turn the engine on without any issues with pto and see it turn. My suggestion is for diagnostics and visual clues only.

JC,

 

[seanhoffman]

Hey....had to go out of town on business.....

I'm back and going to take the tractor by the shop tomorrow

They seem to think that the clutch is stuck.

Apparently this happens often enough that ford put a small lever on the back side of the clutch pedal, so when stored for lenghts of time the clutch can be locked in the disengaged position.

The service manual costs $200 plus dollars....It is going to be cheaper to let them diagnose the problem.....go figure

the PTO will engage with no load on it......it will also engage under load as long as the end shaft is spinning at a reasonable speed.

 

[JC-jetro]

Hey....had to go out of town on business.....

I'm back and going to take the tractor by the shop tomorrow

They seem to think that the clutch is stuck.

Apparently this happens often enough that ford put a small lever on the back side of the clutch pedal, so when stored for lenghts of time the clutch can be locked in the disengaged position.

The service manual costs $200 plus dollars....It is going to be cheaper to let them diagnose the problem.....go figure

the PTO will engage with no load on it......it will also engage under load as long as the end shaft is spinning at a reasonable speed.

A block of wood (small chunk of 2x4) is what I use.

Your observation reveal a different thing to me. If PTO engages with no load on and it leads me to believe that mechanical linking (sliding coupler) between PTO input shaft and PTO final shaft is okay and it stays locked in.

Your observation that PTO under load only spin at certain rpm ( or torque) leads me to believe that your pto clutch is actually slipping and not able to maintain the torque required by rotating implement. That is caused by either worn out pto clutch disk or adjustment. if adjustment is bad, it is likely yo have some issue changing gear as well. There is only one clutch release fork. Do you have grinding when you change gear?

Hopefully adjustment is all you need although your observation does not fully support it.

JC,

 

[seanhoffman]

no slipping/grinding in any gear.....The only grinding is when I try to throw the lever in to engage the PTO....I grinds like ****, but if I force it the PTO will engage....once the PTO is spinning(bush hog attached) the PTO works fine....It will go in and out of gear....no problem no grinding at all, but the shaft must be spinning....so I guess you're right....the clutch is probably slipping.....Now...do I take it to the shop or attempt this adjustment myself.

 

[JC-jetro]

no slipping/grinding in any gear.....The only grinding is when I try to throw the lever in to engage the PTO....I grinds like ****, but if I force it the PTO will engage....once the PTO is spinning(bush hog attached) the PTO works fine....It will go in and out of gear....no problem no grinding at all, but the shaft must be spinning....so I guess you're right....the clutch is probably slipping.....Now...do I take it to the shop or attempt this adjustment myself.

Sean,

Your statement and observations are not all conclusive. I gathered from your previous posts that with grinding of pto engagement once you force it engaged then the pto under load stops working.... that indicate slippage.

Here, in this post you're saying once you passed the dang grinding the pto continues to operate that indicate pto being stuck.

Adjusting the clutch will not unstuck the clutch disk. do the following test with the help of someone and with the engine "off".Engage the pto, try to turn pto, it only should turn in one direction. Have someone to push the clutch pedal all the way in while you are trying to rotate the shaft in the direction that it does not turn. if pto starts turning by clutching it indicates the pto disk in not sticking. If Pto final shaft doers not turn with clutch fully depressed then you have sticking clutch.

There is cure for sticking clutch and a method to adjust the clutch, two different things. Do the test and report back.

you got nothing to lose by trying to adjust if you need to. Again by adjustment you only make the release fork either closer or further from pressure plate fingers and that's all. That can not fix physical issue with slipping or stuck clutch disk and in your case disks.

JC,

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

You can find the service manual on ebay for under a 100 bucks. Then you will have a manual to help when you have future problems. If you take it to the dealer and adjustment doesn't fix the problem they will probably want to split the tractor $$$$. A dealer usually wont try the methods to free a clutch that you can for liability reasons.
Bill

 

[Willl]

Almost sounds like adjustment,,,,maybe not.

The 2 times I've played w/ rusty clutches that were stuck together we attempted some kind of a burn off. Meaning we on purposely tried to burn the clutch by riding it against a tree or something once we unstuck. Seemed to help.

Deep grass and a knowledgeable clutch foot might help in your case.

 

[RickB]

Lots of times the external diagnosis is a stuck PTO disc. Often the root cause is a worn transmission disc that screws up the pressure plate linkage geometry preventing the PTO stage from releasing.

 

[seanhoffman]

Well I figured out the problem.....Actually my mechanic did.

The amount of travel in the pedal just needed to be adjusted out...plus the linkage rod was bent and needed to be straightened out.....

Cost me $10.....

I'm very lucky.....and I appreciate everyones help.......

 

[JC-jetro]

Well I figured out the problem.....Actually my mechanic did.

The amount of travel in the pedal just needed to be adjusted out...plus the linkage rod was bent and needed to be straightened out.....

Cost me $10.....

I'm very lucky.....and I appreciate everyones help.......

Cool that's what I was hoping and no need for a tractor split. I hope this gave you an opportunity to dig in to it a bit and learn something. So your clutch was not slipping and was sticking. it was sticking not because clutch disk was stuck to the flywheel but because the clutch pedal did not release the clutch fully and all the way. Pedal travel was enough to completely engage the transmission clutch plate but not the pto. Nope, can't say it twice in a row

JC,

 

[seanhoffman]

im lucky....i really appreciate your direction.....I'm sure I'll be leaning on you in the future.....Thanks

Sean