##Damaged my 3320 today, advice please PICS##

[beenthere]

Thanks Mechanos, you've been very helpful. I didn't understand that. By the time I pay somebody to do all of that, and then have it welded it's going to be $1000 or so, and for $600 more I can get a brand new unit which is what I think I am going to do.

Getting new is what I would do. Otherwise that scar is there when you go to trade it in or sell it, and it will cost you more in reduced value than the new part. IMO

And chalk up the lesson learned.

 

[SandyTX]

SandyTX
Can you post pics of the breaks?

And curious how they broke (I have a 4300 so want to be on the lookout).
thanks

(sorry for the diversion...appreciate Pushing Tin letting us know not to box blade at excessive speeds, as it can get expensive ).

I'm not sure; I bought the tractor used for a good price. Guy I got it from was 2nd owner and said it had been broken for the year he had it. I've had it almost a year and not had any issues. From advice taken from TBN I am going to use it till it breaks. I'm guessing someone used a box blade and or disc and did not lift it before turning but I'm not for sure.

 

[Mechanos]

I'm not sure; I bought the tractor used for a good price. Guy I got it from was 2nd owner and said it had been broken for the year he had it. I've had it almost a year and not had any issues. From advice taken from TBN I am going to use it till it breaks. I'm guessing someone used a box blade and or disc and did not lift it before turning but I'm not for sure.

Sure looks like something side-loaded the toplink and broke that ear off.

 

[beenthere]

Thanks SandyTX

That kind of failure happened to a friend when using a single subsoiler tooth that flopped around and put awkward side compression on the top link.

I came close to that failure when a lynch pin dropped out of the lower 3 ph arm pin, and the rotary cutter came around at a bad angle on a slope. But feared for the lower bracket that time.

That is when I removed all the lynch pins and replaced with bolts and lock nuts to secure the pins (never remove those pins anyway.

 

[dfkrug]

Deere's shop manuals recommend using a hoist or two people to lift that component off the tractor due to its weight and being in a slightly awkward position due to the fenders and other stuff nearby.

Yes, it's a pretty big job. The 3-pt cyl housing weighs about 85 # and you
have to remove a lot to get at it. Whether one gets a new part or
welds up the old, the cyl will have to be removed from inside it and the
3-pt valve, too. I am curious what the attachment bolts will look like
removed, since JD has gone to a cast aluminum gearbox, from steel on
the older units.

 

[RoyJackson]

Thanks SandyTX

That kind of failure happened to a friend when using a single subsoiler tooth that flopped around and put awkward side compression on the top link.

I came close to that failure when a lynch pin dropped out of the lower 3 ph arm pin, and the rotary cutter came around at a bad angle on a slope. But feared for the lower bracket that time.

That is when I removed all the lynch pins and replaced with bolts and lock nuts to secure the pins (never remove those pins anyway.

Bolts are good...but Tractor Supply sells lynch pins that have twice the spring pressure of the standard (gold colored) ones. The heavy duty lynch pins are black, BTW. If you buy any, do not get your fingers between the loop and pin!!

 

[hanson1999]

on that 4300 it looks like whatever type lynch pin he had fell out causing the top link pin to work its way out and thats exactly what happens...

I agree on using bolts with locknuts/doublenuts, or even zip tie the lynch pin shut.

Not worth taking a chance over...

 

[arrabil]

Wowsers. And here I was moaning all day about $4.75 bolts.

Is that industrial, ag, or turf tires that grabbed so well?

I would be trying to add a second 3pt lever stop to prevent from being able to lift it that high.

 

[Pushing_Tin]

Okay it's going to my dealer tomorrow. They cut me a break on pick-up, freight and an hour of labor. Barring any other issues it will be right at $1400. :confused2:

 

[rjkobbeman]

I would ask for the broken parts back. You never know if you can salvage it as suggested in the first few posts. Having a spare that you can "fix" on your own time (because the tractor is operational) can yield good results sometimes. Trying to "fix" the broken one can also give you some insight on what is fixable... in case you break something else in the future.